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Slave cylinder

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Tri-bar said:
Looks like my Slave cylinder is bad. The clutch engages at the floor. Any helpful hints at pulling the MT-82 ?

It's not too difficult to drop the Trans if you don't have LT Headers (I do, and wouldn't attempt it without a lift). The top 2 Bell housing bolts are easier to access from the engine bay if you remove the Intake Manifold. Obviously you need to remove the driveshaft and starter motor. A re-learn isn't needed so long as you don't move the crank or re-torque the flywheel or pressure plate. Be very careful with the O2 sensors -- they are delicate and will give a code if damaged.

Hope this helps!
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,556
5,291
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
You can reach the two upper bolts without removing the manifold. It's tight but manageable.
A trans jack is a must.
Soak down the converter nuts with a penetrating oil to assist in their removal. Buy a set of replacements nuts since some are bound to be damaged in removal. Better to have and return for a refund than stop in the middle of the job and hunt them down.....ask me how I know.
 
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blacksheep-1 said:
FWIW, in the race car, we leave the 2 top bolts out of the bellhousing.

Rob, leaving the two top bolts out wont hurt anything ? what about the two bottom ones behind the oil pan ?
 
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never tried those, if it was me I'd throw them all out and put a zipper on it..lol

and no, leaving those 2 out doesn't seem to hurt a thing. again, it is a race car and our maintenance schedule is different than most HPDE guys.

We've done this with 3 guys and a floor jack, depending on the application you may have to "clock" the trans, (rotate it about 30 degrees clockwise to sneak it past the tunnel) and then go up and in once the input shaft is lined up.Also try to use an actual input shaft (I have several cut from mangled transmissions) that make a much better alignment tool than the garbage plastic ones. Still, if you have to use the plastic one make sure it's dead nuts straight, rock it up down and sideways to make sure it has the same clearance all the way around and you can use it.
 
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DG#56 said:
Is that the only symptom?

Shifting got a little harder as well, I'm going to do the shabang, flywheel, clutch, slave and drive shaft. Since I have to pull it I might as well.
 
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Got the Trans out, The Spec stage 1 I put in 25k miles ago was toast, Looks like every thing got HOT, Flywheel, Pressure plate. Lots of dust. I had issues from break in with that darn thing. In fact I called Spec, they told me not to take it easy for the first 1k, I thought that was strange, They said it was normal. No matter how I drove it, It stank, slipped and smoked.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
441
Southeast
Yes, take it easy on your new clutch. 500 mile, as in city driving miles. You need to engage the clutch disc many many times for proper break in.

302 HP
 
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So, I replaced everything. EXEDY stage 3 Clutch, EXEDY lightweight flywheel, EXEDY slave cylinder, Ford Racing Alum drive shaft. Bleed the clutch system. Now the peddle feels really soft. Still engages at the floor. It has a ton of free play and sometime it feels like the peddle doesn't even what to come back up. Could it be the clutch master cylinder even though it's not leaking ? Need help on this one.
 
Tri-bar said:
So, I replaced everything. EXEDY stage 3 Clutch, EXEDY lightweight flywheel, EXEDY slave cylinder, Ford Racing Alum drive shaft. Bleed the clutch system. Now the peddle feels really soft. Still engages at the floor. It has a ton of free play and sometime it feels like the peddle doesn't even what to come back up. Could it be the clutch master cylinder even though it's not leaking ? Need help on this one.
How many times did you pump the clutch to bleed it? When I had my motor replaced the tech gave me back the car so that I could do the bleed myself and it took about 3 days of pumping to get it back to normal.
 
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Pumping works really well, but it might be worth trying a vacuum pump on the top of the reservoir. Create vacuum, hold it for 30 seconds or so. Pump it a bunch, then put vacuum on it again.

A cheap Mity Vac off Amazon and a rubber stopper from Lowes is what I used to get the air out of mine.
 
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Berol said:
Pumping works really well, but it might be worth trying a vacuum pump on the top of the reservoir. Create vacuum, hold it for 30 seconds or so. Pump it a bunch, then put vacuum on it again.

A cheap Mity Vac off Amazon and a rubber stopper from Lowes is what I used to get the air out of mine.


++++50

find a rubber stopper at the hardware store, that fits the reservoir, drill a small hole in it, go to the parts store and buy a hand held vacuum pump, hook up misc attachments to fit in said hole in stopper. pull vacuum, hold for 30 seconds, repeat, then you should have a pedal.
 
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Yup, did the pump to 20 psi let it out then hit the peddle, 200 pumps, gets nice'n firm, I drive it and it goes soft again. Head tech at Silva ford told me, " Have fun, it's a real pain . it can take a few days of pumping to get it right. undo the cap, pump your day away, That's why when we replace one we get the full kits from Ford already done."
 
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Brandon302 said:
How many times did you pump the clutch to bleed it? When I had my motor replaced the tech gave me back the car so that I could do the bleed myself and it took about 3 days of pumping to get it back to normal.
Still pumping !
 
Tri-bar said:
Still pumping !
Really? Maybe you have an issue elsewhere.
 
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VooDooBOSS said:
Really? Maybe you have an issue elsewhere.
It's kinda strange, It will feel good and stiff, then go soft and the peddle wont come back up, I lift it with my foot and it's fine again. Then it goes soft again. Still works but haft to left it up. Not sure what the deal is.
 

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