The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Sloppy feeling union on Drive shaft... time for a upgrade??

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
My stock two piece driveshaft is feeling rather sloppy. I gather its a weak point on our cars, would a Dynotech 3.5" aluminium one be a good investment for a tracked Boss?? Or are their other better units??
 
Yes, the stock two piece DS is heavy and the middle isolator bushing is weak. There are a number of good aftermarket 1 piece alum and CF DS options on the market...this forum has plenty of threads on the subject if you want to research it.

I installed a 3.5" Dynotech alum 1 piece DS on my Boss right after I purchased it. It's a top-notch unit. No NVH or other issues whatsoever after two years on my car. Less driveline lash, 22 lbs. of weight off the car, revs a bit quicker. Definitely worth doing.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,530
5,247
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Also check the DSS drive shaft at Lethal Performance.

They often run sales. I got mine for $679.00 delivered in the states. They should be able to send the shaft to your export company.

Good luck with those Camaros. ;D
 
10,000+ miles on my DSS Carbon and there are zero issues and its good for 200+ mph.

Why are you convinced its the drive shaft? I thought mine was toast also turned out to be my clutch loosening up due to over-revs.. (not the Boss clutch). swapped to a spec 2+ and 80% of the driveline lash is gone. There is still some but looking back the drive shaft change didn't reduce lash at all.

Now there is still 20% there that i'd like to be gone but I have to accept it as part of the Mustang, much like the P0300 light that comes on daily for 3yrs.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
The drive shaft physically feels looser then it did before when under the car and you give it a good grab. On the track I do not feel much difference at all to be honest. I will take a look at the DSS
 
96
0
I replaced the oem two-piece with an aluminium 3.5" Dynotech a few months ago. Haven't tracked it since, but all the backlash is gone. Go for it :)
 
1,022
99
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Texas
twistedneck said:
10,000+ miles on my DSS Carbon and there are zero issues and its good for 200+ mph.

Why are you convinced its the drive shaft? I thought mine was toast also turned out to be my clutch loosening up due to over-revs.. (not the Boss clutch). swapped to a spec 2+ and 80% of the driveline lash is gone. There is still some but looking back the drive shaft change didn't reduce lash at all.

Now there is still 20% there that i'd like to be gone but I have to accept it as part of the Mustang, much like the P0300 light that comes on daily for 3yrs.

Sorry to change the subject but did you have the TSB done for this? I just had mine done by the dealer last week. They put an o-ring on the crank position sensor that essentially just secures it in place better. It's supposed to fix the mis-fire issues.
 
Flyboygsxr said:
Sorry to change the subject but did you have the TSB done for this? I just had mine done by the dealer last week. They put an o-ring on the crank position sensor that essentially just secures it in place better. It's supposed to fix the mis-fire issues.

Yes, I worked directly w Ford engineers on that fix before it was released to the public. I've replaced my crank sensor, done many relearns, replaced my crank trigger wheel, knew plugs, new coils, etc... I think its the ecu.
 
6,363
8,187
IMO stay away from the carbon shafts for street use. It's not that they are not a quality product, it's that road debris can kick up and damage the shaft materially, causing catastrophic failure.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
441
Southeast
At less than 800 miles, I installed an AE 4.0" Aluminum DS. You have to replace the pinion flange for this install, so it's not for everyone.

I've got three years and 14k miles on it and it is a solid, well balanced unit. Top speed so far is 143 MPH and it's smooth, very smooth. I also went thru the rear diff at 12k and she's running nicely with good tooth wear patterns.

The 8.8" is set up on the loose side so most will have some slop and may have a little clunk noise.

A one piece DS will improve initial power and weight transfer, I think it's one of my best mods, and I have a few mods or upgrades to my little Beast.

Enjoy your Boss,
302 Hi Pro
 
898
544
twistedneck said:
Yes, I worked directly w Ford engineers on that fix before it was released to the public. I've replaced my crank sensor, done many relearns, replaced my crank trigger wheel, knew plugs, new coils, etc... I think its the ecu.

Take your car back to the dealer for warranty repair. The last step in the diagnostic flow chart is an ECU replacement. The ECU replacement is the next step after replacing the pulse ring / crank trigger wheel.

And on topic, I have a DSS carbon drive shaft and have been very happy with it. No vibrations, reduced driveline clanking and faster engine response.
 
I've been thinking of this mod for my weekend canyon carver. Can you guys really feel a difference in how quickly the motor revs?
Does the driveshaft alone make that much of a difference??

Thanks in advance . . .
 
96
0
Calif boss302 said:
I've been thinking of this mod for my weekend canyon carver. Can you guys really feel a difference in how quickly the motor revs?
Does the driveshaft alone make that much of a difference??

Thanks in advance . . .

To me, the whole drivetrain feels more tightly connected to the rear tires and it revs more freely. The biggest difference is that the backlash when going from engine braking to accelerating is 95% gone.

/Swede
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
So far so good with the new dynatech. Car feels smoother and no more shunting in traffic. Off to the races on Sunday!
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
441
Southeast
Calif boss302 said:
I've been thinking of this mod for my weekend canyon carver. Can you guys really feel a difference in how quickly the motor revs?
Does the driveshaft alone make that much of a difference??

Thanks in advance . . .

Yes, you can feel a positive difference. In my case I also noticed the front line of the hood jumps up quicker on WOT hooks from a standing start.

302 HP
 
So is the consensus of the group that DSS or AE would be the preferred way to go? I saw AE has a 3.5" custom order version (which is what I would get) to minimize/ease the swap.

This might be on my short list for next mod.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Top