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so many doubts.. need help

237
2
hey guys ,

yesterday and today I was installing the parts I ordered :

1.exedy kit ( flywheel, mach 500 clutch, arp flywheel bolts)
2. MGW race spec v2
3. bmr lower, upper control arm with mount and the lower control arm relocation brackets.
4. cf dss driveshaft

I had many doubts because its my first time to modify a car and im not sure if what I did was right or wrong.


1. I installed the exedy slave cylinder and just plugged it to the clutch line .. is it done that way or should I press the slave and put its line in brake oil to suck the brake oil to fill it up ...

2. I filled the mgw spring hole and the shifter pivot cup with grease .. is it done that way or is it overfilled and that would make some problems later on ... ?

3. I put in the oem bearing that comes into the flywheel .. just put it on the exedy flywheel

4. I had two choices of torqueing the flywheel bolts .. the arp torque rating and the oems.. I went with arp torque rating which was written on a paper with the bolts ( I think it was 70ft lbs)

5. I torqued the clutch to 46 lb-ft and added around a little bit more that 45 degrees..

6. I tightened the trans back without torqueing it out .. just regular tightening... is that ok ?? and I haven't used thread locker on those bolts

7. I tightened the cf driveshaft without torqueing the bolts out and without thread locker ..

8. I removed the axle weights off the car when I installed the relocation brackets.. should I leave it that way ??

9. I ddnt grease the fitting and the edges of the bmr lower and upper bracket ,,, should I ?? would it break the bushings if I ddnt ??

10. do the bmr control arms come pre greased inside ??

11 I had no time to finish the pinion angle setup of the car and I was driving it slowly back home... can I do that or is it too dangerous on the rear diff internals and I will break stuff ??


so many doubts and am new to all of this... im requesting your help
 
Geeze

If your uncertain these are the kind of questions to ask and more importantly and get the answers to BEFORE you start the job!

Not trying to be a wise ass, and I don"t know the answers but I sure hope you don't have to undo - redo much of your work.
 
237
2
yeah thats frustrating .. i was working with an experienced mechanic but turns out even the local experienced guy " looks like" hes sure of what he is doing ... even though i doubt it.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,868
4,131
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
eng90 said:
hey guys ,

yesterday and today I was installing the parts I ordered :

1.exedy kit ( flywheel, mach 500 clutch, arp flywheel bolts)
2. MGW race spec v2
3. bmr lower, upper control arm with mount and the lower control arm relocation brackets.
4. cf dss driveshaft

I had many doubts because its my first time to modify a car and im not sure if what I did was right or wrong.


1. I installed the exedy slave cylinder and just plugged it to the clutch line .. is it done that way or should I press the slave and put its line in brake oil to suck the brake oil to fill it up ...this will work. Just pump the clutch several hundred times

2. I filled the mgw spring hole and the shifter pivot cup with grease .. is it done that way or is it overfilled and that would make some problems later on ... ? No worries. Low speed and will push out any extra

3. I put in the oem bearing that comes into the flywheel .. just put it on the exedy flywheel should be fine. Adding a small bit if grease to bearings could of been helpful but I would not worry about this.

4. I had two choices of torqueing the flywheel bolts .. the arp torque rating and the oems.. I went with arp torque rating which was written on a paper with the bolts ( I think it was 70ft lbs) you did right. Torques are specific to the fasteners

5. I torqued the clutch to 46 lb-ft and added around a little bit more that 45 degrees..

6. I tightened the trans back without torqueing it out .. just regular tightening... is that ok ?? and I haven't used thread locker on those bolts same thing I did. Nearly impossible to get a true torque with the engine in the body.

7. I tightened the cf driveshaft without torqueing the bolts out and without thread locker .. Easy fix. Check with shaft manufacturer and redo to spec

8. I removed the axle weights off the car when I installed the relocation brackets.. should I leave it that way ?? Up to you. They are designed to eliminate noise. If you hear diff noise later reinstall if you want.

9. I ddnt grease the fitting and the edges of the bmr lower and upper bracket ,,, should I ?? would it break the bushings if I ddnt ??

10. do the bmr control arms come pre greased inside ??

11 I had no time to finish the pinion angle setup of the car and I was driving it slowly back home... can I do that or is it too dangerous on the rear diff internals and I will break stuff ?? Was there any vibration? If not, should be good. Set the angle asap


so many doubts and am new to all of this... im requesting your help

Sounds like you are on your way to mod land. Enjoy the ride!!!
 
"1. I installed the exedy slave cylinder and just plugged it to the clutch line .. is it done that way or should I press the slave and put its line in brake oil to suck the brake oil to fill it up ..."

Make sure all hydraulic tubes are correctly seated.
Make sure the clutch pedal is in the most upward position.
Check the fluid level of the brake/clutch reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark.
Using a suitable bleeder kit and a Vacuum Pump Kit, install the rubber stopper in the reservoir opening. Make sure the rubber stopper has a tight fit.
Alternate method: use a 50 mm (1.96 in) rubber stopper with an 8 mm (0.31 in) pipe inserted through the rubber stopper.
Holding the rubber stopper in place, operate the vacuum pump to 15-20 inches of vacuum. Hold the vacuum for one minute, then quickly relieve the vacuum. Remove the special tools.
Check the fluid level of the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark. Install the reservoir cap.
Depress and release the clutch pedal 10 to 12 times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
Repeat Steps 4 through 6 two additional times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
Install the reservoir cap.
Check the clutch pedal reserve. Test the clutch system for normal operation.


" 2. I filled the mgw spring hole and the shifter pivot cup with grease .. is it done that way or is it overfilled and that would make some problems later on ... ? "

Don't know about this one. I would figure any extra grease would just get squished out on assembly...

"3. I put in the oem bearing that comes into the flywheel .. just put it on the exedy flywheel "

Your wording kind of makes no sense, If you are talking about the pilot bearing. first you have to remove the old bearing which is in the end of the crankshaft. The new bearing is then tapped into the crank with a small hammer and socket. If the car has low miles, just leave the original pilot bearing alone and put just A LITTLE bit of grease on the rollers.

4. I had two choices of torqueing the flywheel bolts .. the arp torque rating and the oems.. I went with arp torque rating which was written on a paper with the bolts ( I think it was 70ft lbs)

Use the ARP specs...

5. I torqued the clutch to 46 lb-ft and added around a little bit more that 45 degrees..

Using a clutch aligner, position the clutch disc on the flywheel. If installing the original pressure plate, align the pressure plate to the flywheel using the index-marks made during removal. If installing a new pressure plate, align the pressure plate to the flywheel using the paint dots. Install the 9 new pressure plate bolts by turning the bolts 1 turn at a time in a star pattern until the clutch is fully secured.

Tighten the pressure plate bolts in 2 stages, in the sequence shown.
Stage 1: Tighten to 63 Nm (46 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Tighten an additional 60 degrees.

I would also use a dab of Blue Lock Tight to the bolts


6. I tightened the trans back without torqueing it out .. just regular tightening... is that ok ?? and I haven't used thread locker on those bolts

You are fine here...

7. I tightened the cf driveshaft without torqueing the bolts out and without thread locker ..

Again tightening them is fine. I would use Blue Thread Locker...

8. I removed the axle weights off the car when I installed the relocation brackets.. should I leave it that way ??

Mine are gone too :)

9. I ddnt grease the fitting and the edges of the bmr lower and upper bracket ,,, should I ?? would it break the bushings if I ddnt ??

Get you a grease gun with a flexible hose and good SYNTHETIC grease, Redline or Mobil 1 come to mind. Grease the bushings using the grease fittings. If grease does not go in easily, loosen the bolts untill grase squirts out. Don't forget to tighten the bolts back when you are done...

10. do the bmr control arms come pre greased inside ??

Don't think so, see above...

11 I had no time to finish the pinion angle setup of the car and I was driving it slowly back home... can I do that or is it too dangerous on the rear diff internals and I will break stuff ??

I don't think you will break anything. I would set the pinion angle to -2 deg with the car at ride height...


Hope this helps. I admire people that try to tackle this kind of work on their own. It can be a PITA but in the end you will say you built it instead of just writing a check. Good luck brother......
 
237
2
thanks for this input.. this is really helpful and simple enough..

after the installation the rear i hear rear end clunks on stops and goes.. and i hear whine but im not sure if it is transmission whine form the shifter or when from the rear end from the axle weights or the mis aligned pinion ...

And regarding the pinion alignment ... i measured the angle from the trans flange and showed me -2 ... so this means that i should load the car suspension on the ground and adjust the angle to 0 at the lower flat surface of the pinion flange considering that the pinion would rotate 2 degrees under WOT with my upper control arm poly bushing...

is this the correct proceedure to align the pinion angle ??


plus my upper control arm with mount and lowers with the relo bracket have not been tightened by torque wrench... so just regular tightening .. is it find?? would or wouldnt it make a difference in nvh, perfomance and longeivitey ??
 
2,090
912
Bay Area
Most likely the whine is normal from the rear end. All Bosses I have ridden in have that noise. (Turn your radio up to fix that HAHA!) As for all of your installation questions you should always follow the recommended TQ setting and use Loctite. The reason there is a TQ value is so that way you don't accidentally put to much TQ on the nut, bolt, or flange and fatigue the metal too much.
 

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