captdistraction
GrumpyRacer
If you're looking to do a pan, I'd recommend the GT500 pan kit. It has a taller gear in the pump, and the baffling in the pan is based on the FP350S at a fraction of the cost.
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Steeda RR K-member
- Thread starterWolvee
- Start date
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Go with the GT500 pump, pickup, and pan. Better than the 350 and not quite as much $$ as the FP350S kit.
- Thread starter
- #23
Wolvee
Full Time Nerd
I can't seem to find Billet OPG's for a High Volume pump, I assume they are different? Or do all GT350's have HV oil pumps? I'm procharged so I don't think I should risk powder OPG's over my Billets just for the sake of the Ford pans.
Does anyone have the canton RR pan? Looking at pictures a lot of the aftermarket pans look like they hang low and that's no bueno.
Does anyone have the canton RR pan? Looking at pictures a lot of the aftermarket pans look like they hang low and that's no bueno.
Boundary makes a gear kit for the 500 pump, I believe. Should be a good upgrade.
- Thread starter
- #25
Wolvee
Full Time Nerd
A little update, at first, I went with the GT350 kit because I wanted to save a little $$ since I already had OPG's. That got railroaded after ordering from Levitown and them not actually not having the Kit in stock. They shut down all Customer Service Phones and Chats so I had to wait a week to find out I had to wait another week for them to get the parts and then for them to ship them to me. I cancelled it tonight and ordered the GT500 pan/pump kit. M-6675-M52S
My fault for trying to save a little I guess, lol. It never goes well when I try to save a dime. Karma always find a way to get me.
When I get the pan I'll start the full install and update as I go.
My fault for trying to save a little I guess, lol. It never goes well when I try to save a dime. Karma always find a way to get me.
When I get the pan I'll start the full install and update as I go.
- Thread starter
- #26
Wolvee
Full Time Nerd
On my headstone will be written.. "Well since it's apart."
I figure since it's apart I should probably change my suspension springs out as well. It's currently riding on Steeda progressives with a 1.175"F and 1"R which is too soft and too Low.
Can you guys suggest a spring that are .5"-.75" lowered from stock? I have big adjustable sways and Steeda Adjustable S&S which are made by Koni.
All I can see you guys suggesting in the search results is FP 1" progressives. ?? (Just a GT)
I figure since it's apart I should probably change my suspension springs out as well. It's currently riding on Steeda progressives with a 1.175"F and 1"R which is too soft and too Low.
Can you guys suggest a spring that are .5"-.75" lowered from stock? I have big adjustable sways and Steeda Adjustable S&S which are made by Koni.
All I can see you guys suggesting in the search results is FP 1" progressives. ?? (Just a GT)
JDee
Ancient Racer
People suggest the Ford Racing track kit because it flat out works and it's bog simple. For those of us that want to drive and not tinker with myriad esoteric suspension settings it is THE setup.
- Thread starter
- #28
Wolvee
Full Time Nerd
1” is to low for my car.
I have Eibach sportline springs and want to raise my car and thinking of getting the Ford springs.
I recently completed most of the install of the road race K member.
Here's some prelim pros and cons.
Pros:
As stated earlier, much more room, decent weight savings (they've already done the before and after but I have to check, I think I weighed the K member prior to install, now I just have to weigh the OEM piece).
Comes with demountable brace (identical in function to the G trac brace).
Gives 4 position options for adjusting roll center and width.
Dimensional tolerances are very good, almost too good (more on that below)
Cons:
Elimination of a bunch of OEM attachment points. The most troubling being the lower braces for both coolers. I now have to fab something up to stabilize the bottom of the oil and trans coolers.
Second is the magneride swing arm bracket. Although they have a hole to mount it too and it's not like it experiences a great deal of torque or force, the OEM location is a 2 point attachment with a bolt hole and a tab insert that goes in a fixing hole on the other end of the bracket. Without the fixing end, the bracket is now relying completely on fastener torque to keep it from rotating (and then giving the sensor/computer all sorts of fits). Also the OEM locations for passenger side brake line tabs/supports are now gone. You can use zip ties, but if you're an OCD type person, this is gonna haunt your dreams or cause you more custom fab.
Lastly is the wind pan mounting holes, they do provide some sturdy/heavy duty zip ties.
I spoke with Steeda briefly to tell them they should either mask off the inside of the arm receivers or account for the thickness of the powder coat, had to beat them into place scraping away the finish (which you can't see and it's not a big deal).
Lastly, price. I'm within driving distance of steeda so I was able to avoid pretty steep shipping costs and go pick it up, but it's a pricey piece, high quality, but still a good kick to the wallet. Installation, it is what it is, luckily I'm doing it at the same time as a million other things so the K member was coming down anyway.
If you're out of low hanging fruit for weight savings and down to high $/lb items, this one also has the benefit of extra room for headers and turbos and anything else.
Here's some prelim pros and cons.
Pros:
As stated earlier, much more room, decent weight savings (they've already done the before and after but I have to check, I think I weighed the K member prior to install, now I just have to weigh the OEM piece).
Comes with demountable brace (identical in function to the G trac brace).
Gives 4 position options for adjusting roll center and width.
Dimensional tolerances are very good, almost too good (more on that below)
Cons:
Elimination of a bunch of OEM attachment points. The most troubling being the lower braces for both coolers. I now have to fab something up to stabilize the bottom of the oil and trans coolers.
Second is the magneride swing arm bracket. Although they have a hole to mount it too and it's not like it experiences a great deal of torque or force, the OEM location is a 2 point attachment with a bolt hole and a tab insert that goes in a fixing hole on the other end of the bracket. Without the fixing end, the bracket is now relying completely on fastener torque to keep it from rotating (and then giving the sensor/computer all sorts of fits). Also the OEM locations for passenger side brake line tabs/supports are now gone. You can use zip ties, but if you're an OCD type person, this is gonna haunt your dreams or cause you more custom fab.
Lastly is the wind pan mounting holes, they do provide some sturdy/heavy duty zip ties.
I spoke with Steeda briefly to tell them they should either mask off the inside of the arm receivers or account for the thickness of the powder coat, had to beat them into place scraping away the finish (which you can't see and it's not a big deal).
Lastly, price. I'm within driving distance of steeda so I was able to avoid pretty steep shipping costs and go pick it up, but it's a pricey piece, high quality, but still a good kick to the wallet. Installation, it is what it is, luckily I'm doing it at the same time as a million other things so the K member was coming down anyway.
If you're out of low hanging fruit for weight savings and down to high $/lb items, this one also has the benefit of extra room for headers and turbos and anything else.
- Thread starter
- #31
Wolvee
Full Time Nerd
The new K-member has 4 options to install the Lateral Links. I'm stuck thinking about two of them. One Listed as "Factory Location" and the other for "Lowered Vehicles". Since my car is lowered, that's the direction to head but I'm also not buying Extended ball studs.
You're the car geometry pro's, factory location or higher?
You're the car geometry pro's, factory location or higher?
Basically, from speaking with Steeda, the "factory" locations are for factory height (i.e. you haven't lowered it) and the lowered are obviously to return it to the elevation it was prior to lowering. The inside outside is for whether you want to slightly widen the width (oem laterials vs adjustable).
If your car is lowered and your running OEM remaining components then the best option is probably upper inboard (lower left graphic).
If you imagine your wheel in a straight up and down orientation, with whatever camber you select, it's going to to be angled slightly. If you then kick the enter wheel outboard more slightly, now to keep the same camber, your strut tower needs to also kick out (otherwise it will increase the camber if it remains in the same point at the top of the tower).
Here's where I go completely beyond my knowledge, I don't know if neutral (no camber, straight up and down) is dead center of the strut attachment. So maybe widening slightly will improve centering (with typical camber settings) or make it worse.
If your car is lowered and your running OEM remaining components then the best option is probably upper inboard (lower left graphic).
If you imagine your wheel in a straight up and down orientation, with whatever camber you select, it's going to to be angled slightly. If you then kick the enter wheel outboard more slightly, now to keep the same camber, your strut tower needs to also kick out (otherwise it will increase the camber if it remains in the same point at the top of the tower).
Here's where I go completely beyond my knowledge, I don't know if neutral (no camber, straight up and down) is dead center of the strut attachment. So maybe widening slightly will improve centering (with typical camber settings) or make it worse.
- Thread starter
- #33
Wolvee
Full Time Nerd
I understand it the way you do but I wonder if I adjust it to the higher position, if it throws something else out of sorts with the roll center than I'm not experienced enough to consider. 
I understand it the way you do but I wonder if I adjust it to the higher position, if it throws something else out of sorts with the roll center than I'm not experienced enough to consider.
Think of it this way, your wheels and the center of them are fixed off the ground (while the wheels make contact with the ground).
your car/body sits at rest on the OEM springs at a certain dimension above your suspension. You install springs that are either shorter or have a softer rate an the car now sets lower, but your wheels and all that's attached have not moved. You've lowered the relationship between your body and wheels.
Using the lower mounts on the K member simply maintains that adjusted/distorted relationship. Using the upper mounting points returns the arms/ends back UP to where they were before you lowered the car (or approximately).
Not only does it put the suspension geometry back closer to where it's supposed to be, it probably helps with bump steer caused by lowering too.
As far as inside/outside, if you have adjustable ends/suspension components, it can slightly widen or move the lower portion of the suspension outward.
The part that gets beyond me is whether this will help return the strut to the center of the tower or make it WORSE. I have Vorshlag C/C plates and I have no idea how to set this up (so I'm dropping the car off at Steeda for them to dial in the alignment). But I'm wondering if Ford has a -2.5 degree OEM setting for the front, if that's centered or offset in the center of the tower hole. Then if you WIDEN it out, does that help (recenter) or does it make it worse?
I deployed the Steeda RR KMember and have so far (so far) found it a phenomenal upgrade but will also concede a foot injury has prevented me from getting to the track this summer. But the mountains of PA going back to Michigan seem to really show its stuff over the stock setup. Also agree it opens up alot more space.
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