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Stupid Brake Question of the Day - Fluid/Pads/SS Hoses/Rotors & Ducts - O'My

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Hello,

I am in the process of gathering the parts needed to do a brake upgrade and since this will be the first time I am attempting to fully flush out the factory brake fluid in this car for something better I wanted to know how much fluid is typically needed to perform this job? Also, I am curious if anyone has had their dealship do this for them instead of dealing with it personaly? I have a Motive Power Bleeder but I'm not sure if it would work with this car or not. Its probably 15+ yrs old at this point.

The Motul RBF600 fluid I intend to use appears to normally come in 500ml bottles but I'm not sure what to expect when considering how much fluid is discarded while bleeding and then still having enough leftover to fill the system. I guess I could just buy a 5gal bucket of fluid to cover me but at the price of the fluid I would rather be a little more accurate in my purchase if possible :eek:

Do you see anything missing from the list below that I should also consider? Maybe speed bleeders?

Carbotech 1521 Pads Front & Rear
Vorshlag SS Braided Brake Lines
Centric Front Replacement Rotors
Vorshlag 3" Brake Ducts/Hoses & Backing Plates
Motul RBF600

Thanks in advance
 
I'm typically using less than two for a full flush but I buy them three at a time so I have some for normal track day prep bleeding. I'm also using the Motul 600.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
441
Southeast
I went with 3, 500ml bottles for my first brake fluid system flush and used most of 2 bottles, (1000ml). I may have over flushed a bit, but I wanted all of the OEM Dot 3 fluid out.

Will probably use 750ml (or slightly less), of Motul 600 fluid in subsequent brake system flushes.

Dave
302 HP
 
Ok.. Sounds good. I'll plan on 3 bottles of Motul.

Recently had the car at the dealer for 5k mile checkup. They mentioned to me that the pads were almost toast (which I was aware of) despite the car on having 25K miles on it. You don't say 8)

They then proceeded to tell me the OEM pads on the car were $600 for the Brembo brakes.

Ummm... Yeah that's not happening!

Thanks for info guys
 
I was wondering if anyone has any tips they can offer when swapping out the brake lines that would limit the ingestiion of air into the system? Is limiting the air ingestion even possible in this situation?

Same question for swapping in speed bleeders?

Thanks
 
My Stoptech brake lines came with rubber caps to go over the open lines while working on the car.

Be careful with the speed bleeders. Several members have had issues with them. There's a recent thread where a couple members used steel threaded inserts into the aluminum caliper which keeps you from continually tightening steel into aluminum. The aluminum in the Brembo calipers is not the strongest. I'm not sure that the speed bleeders really get you anyway.

One thing I use is the Motive bleeder bottles. You can mark them so you know how much fluid you need to bleed each time and that takes the guess work out how fluid much to bleed. They are well worth the money.

http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-Bleeder-Bottles-1820/dp/B00D5V04DY

And don't forget the Full Tilt Boogie brake piston tool. This will be the best $15 you ever spend. ;)

http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/2015_S550_Brake_parts.htm
 
Thanks again for the info guys.

So it sounds like the Speed Bleeders may be more risk then they are worth so I think I'm going to skip them.

I'll plan on aquiring the proper adaptor to use with my Motive Power Bleeder which looks like this one below (Part # motive 1118)

http://www.amazon.com/Bleeder-Adapter-Aluminum-Motive-1118/dp/B00JJ20RJO/ref=pd_sbs_263_16?ie=UTF8&refRID=03RSVMEYKTR2AE0SZ77F

61kG%2BUybaVL._SL1000_.jpg


VooDooBOSS said:
One thing I use is the Motive bleeder bottles. You can mark them so you know how much fluid you need to bleed each time and that takes the guess work out how fluid much to bleed. They are well worth the money.

http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-Bleeder-Bottles-1820/dp/B00D5V04DY

And don't forget the Full Tilt Boogie brake piston tool. This will be the best $15 you ever spend. ;)

http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/2015_S550_Brake_parts.htm

OK guys, help me out here on these two parts listed above. Aprantly I have no problems swapping out the entire suspension on the car myself but doing the brakes seems to be causing me some indegestion..Lol

Do the Bleeder bottles just catch the bled brake fluid or do they have other benefits that I'm not seeing on the surface?

In terms of the FTB brake piston tool, I'm having a hard time picturing how this thing plays into the process. Does it simply lay across both pistons at the same time so you can then take a C Clamp or plyers or something against it to help compress the pistons back?

I'm guessing that it may be a good idea to pick up that other fancy general purpose rear caliper piston retraction tool as well?

Damn...this brake upgrade is costing some serious scratch after I add up all the costs involved. :eek: :'(

Final Parts list below:

Pagid RS29 Front Brake Pads
Pagid RS56 Rear Brake Pads
Castrol SRF Brake Fluid
DBA 4000 Series Slotted Front/Rear Rotors
Vorshlag SS Braided Brake Lines
Vorshlag 3" Brake Ducts/Hoses & Backing Plates
Full Tilt Boogie Front Caliper Tool
Full Tilt Boogie Rear Caliper Tool Kit
Motive Power Bleeder Adapter
Motive Bleeder Bottles
 
If you buy the motive bleeder, then you definitely want to grab that overpriced aluminum cap. The plastic cap that comes with the bleeder will leak, burst, and make a mess when pressurized.

The bleeder bottles do exactly what you described. IMO, no need to waste money on these bottles. I went to lowes/home depot, got clear hoses and I use it with an empty plastic bottle, or water gallon to collect the fluid. The hoses from lowes/HD are made of harder material, but they get the job done. You also want a plastic bottle/container that has a large enough base to prevent it from tipping over when opening and closing the bleeder valve. That's the only advantage with the bottles in the link, they have magnets for you to secure it to the rotor.

As for the tilt tool, it's used as a lever to push the pistons back into place. I don't have this tool, but from the looks of it, it's big enough to only push a single piston at a time. So far, I've been using the old pads as a lever to push the pistons back into place. Our pads are wide enough to grab both pistons in, once you've pushed them in separately first.

Hope this helps :p

EDIT:
Oh and defintely have a rear brake tool kit, because you won't be able to (safely) rotate the rear caliper pistons back in without it. But looks like you've already purchased the full tilt rear caliper tool, which is what you need (if it's this one you're talking about). BTW, if you haven't purchased this tool yet, look in ebay. I believe I got mine around $30-40 shipped. It only has a single "rotator", but you only need one anyway. Just trying to save you money ::)

EDIT2:
I didn't see the motive bleeder in your list. the adapter you've listed is to be used with one of these bleeders. The one in the link already comes with the aluminum adapter, so no need to buy it separately, unless you already have the bleeder that came with the plastic cap.
 
Thanks for clarifying the purposes of these contraptions F.D as well as attempting to save me a few dollars. Unfortunately for me I was too quick with my mouse and the money is already down the shoot on those smaller items.

I was trying to talk myself out of doing this job myself but I think I may have saved some coin anyway over what the stealership would have charged me for the labor. Now I just need to find some motivation somewhere to get it done ;D
 
Haha, I do that all the time! Get impatient and start clicking my money away online... for some reason, it's usually always after midnight ::)

But other than the consumables, everything you've purchased is an investment. You'll be able to use these tools on all your cars. ;D
 
The brakes get done a lot and you'll be way ahead in the long run learning to work on them yourself. The bottles aren't necessary but work great. For me they were money well spent. As for the tool it pushes both Pistons in evenly and has nice leverage. Several of us use it and wouldn't head to the track without it. I just hope he makes a larger one to push three Pistons in at once. You will not regret buying that tool.
 

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