Do any of you guys run sub frame connectors and if so, what brand? Any help would be appreciated.
+1 on what Mark says. Try the jack point challenge, jack a new Boss at the rear jacking point on the rocker and see how the front tire comes up almost as soon as the rear tire does, now try that on a fox, fox+4, or an SN-95 mustang. The fox cars will twist like a twizzler before lifting the front wheel. Only chassis I have seen stiffer is my 996 Porsche, I'm sure that connectors will help some but so would going over all the seams with stitch welds, and a good 6 or 8 point cage with rocker level door bars will add stiffness and protection. I don't see adding underbody bolt ons in my mod path. More brakes, lighter weight and always more power is where I want to spend the cash. Off topic, I think take off race tires are the best kept "secret" for us track rats, compared to $300 a tire for dot track tires of $450 for a Pilot Sport Cup or Corsa, $80 for a slick that can go 4-500 track miles can't be beat.mwilson7 said:The S197 chassis is SIGNIFICANTLY stiffer than the old Fox body based Mustang chassis which makes subframe connectors significantly less effective vs the old car. Do they help....of course they do...... are they needed..... not in my opinion. They were probably the #1 or #2 modification on the old cars and people are still trying to sell them based on what people used to know.
IMHO, Most people who recommend them are the ones trying to sell them.
The one positive of sub frame connectors is that the weight is low and at the center of the car.
Let me know how the JB tires turn out. I've not had good luck with tires from them.steveespo said:Gary
I bought 8 265-645-18 front, 2 305-650-18 and 2 305-685-18 rear DH grand Am Pirellis from Turner Motorsports last year, just last week I ordered 4 255-650-19 and 4 295-680-19 Pirelli Ferrari Challenge slicks from John Berget Tires. Cost $100 shipping included. I went for the 19" because I am thinking 15" front brakes. This hobby wil send me to the poor house.