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Sub frame connectors

Sesshomurai

What i was told is the s197 unibody is spot welded (vs. seam welded) and because of that will flex. Subframe connectors will help with that and kenny brown make some. I dont use them yet.
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
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This is true - speak with Rick Moroso at Moroso Performance Products, he knows a lot about 'stang suspension. They do make a very nice sub frame connector, but it can't be used with our side pipes, at least the last timer I spoke with him that was the case. They may have a new model now.
 
The S197 chassis is SIGNIFICANTLY stiffer than the old Fox body based Mustang chassis which makes subframe connectors significantly less effective vs the old car. Do they help....of course they do...... are they needed..... not in my opinion. They were probably the #1 or #2 modification on the old cars and people are still trying to sell them based on what people used to know.

IMHO, Most people who recommend them are the ones trying to sell them.

The one positive of sub frame connectors is that the weight is low and at the center of the car.
 

steveespo

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mwilson7 said:
The S197 chassis is SIGNIFICANTLY stiffer than the old Fox body based Mustang chassis which makes subframe connectors significantly less effective vs the old car. Do they help....of course they do...... are they needed..... not in my opinion. They were probably the #1 or #2 modification on the old cars and people are still trying to sell them based on what people used to know.

IMHO, Most people who recommend them are the ones trying to sell them.

The one positive of sub frame connectors is that the weight is low and at the center of the car.
+1 on what Mark says. Try the jack point challenge, jack a new Boss at the rear jacking point on the rocker and see how the front tire comes up almost as soon as the rear tire does, now try that on a fox, fox+4, or an SN-95 mustang. The fox cars will twist like a twizzler before lifting the front wheel. Only chassis I have seen stiffer is my 996 Porsche, I'm sure that connectors will help some but so would going over all the seams with stitch welds, and a good 6 or 8 point cage with rocker level door bars will add stiffness and protection. I don't see adding underbody bolt ons in my mod path. More brakes, lighter weight and always more power is where I want to spend the cash. Off topic, I think take off race tires are the best kept "secret" for us track rats, compared to $300 a tire for dot track tires of $450 for a Pilot Sport Cup or Corsa, $80 for a slick that can go 4-500 track miles can't be beat.
Steve
 
The only problem running slicks, even used ones, is the ability to hide driver mistakes in their high levels of grip. I know many people who recommend to stay with street tires until you're making them scream on every corner of every lap. But dammit if that isn't expensive! I plan to run some take off tires next track outing even though I may not have learned to completely out-drive the limit of my street tires. I just can't afford 1200 dollars on tires that I'm going to abuse. I think many of you are probably in the same boat.
 

steveespo

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Zquez
I agree to some extent about the slicks hiding poor technique but I learned how to drive up to the limits of first stock PZeros and the PZero Corsas fairly well in my2nd year of tracking. I reached a plateau at my home track and just felt slow! When it also was painful chunking out a front set of Corsas to the tune of $750 with only 3 days and about 1500 street miles on them. Put Pirelli slicks on and picked up 2.5 seconds and have run 3 days on a set with only the fronts showing any wear (1 more day left on them). It is no different than running Hoosiers or Nitto DOT slicks, just cheaper and a step up. Much like brakes you can't have too much grip ;D you have to use your brain instead of your balls to bring the car close to the limits to stay safe.
Steve
 
Some say that if you haven't driven your car to the limit on street tires, you'll still be slow on slicks even though you won't feel like it. This of course is just a recommendation and really targeted at beginners. My last outing at CMP, I was pulling consistent, fast lap times and the only thing slowing me down was my tires. After the weekend my relatively cheap (250 per) Hankooks were shot. And running without camber plates, I was getting significantly uneven tire wear (corded on the inside). So I also plan to step up to some used slicks. With my new suspension I should get more even wear, be faster, and spend about the same for 4 tires as I do now for 1. I'm a firm believer in technique over technology, but sometimes money overwhelms that... ha
 
Steve - where are you getting the Pirellis? I agree with you 100%. I was loving the takeoff Conti slicks I ran last year at $100 per tire compared to $300 for DOTs. Most were really good, but I did get a few clunkers that seemed to be heat cycled out.
 

steveespo

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Gary
I bought 8 265-645-18 front, 2 305-650-18 and 2 305-685-18 rear DH grand Am Pirellis from Turner Motorsports last year, just last week I ordered 4 255-650-19 and 4 295-680-19 Pirelli Ferrari Challenge slicks from John Berget Tires. Cost $100 shipping included. I went for the 19" because I am thinking 15" front brakes. This hobby wil send me to the poor house.
Steve
 
steveespo said:
Gary
I bought 8 265-645-18 front, 2 305-650-18 and 2 305-685-18 rear DH grand Am Pirellis from Turner Motorsports last year, just last week I ordered 4 255-650-19 and 4 295-680-19 Pirelli Ferrari Challenge slicks from John Berget Tires. Cost $100 shipping included. I went for the 19" because I am thinking 15" front brakes. This hobby wil send me to the poor house.
Steve
Let me know how the JB tires turn out. I've not had good luck with tires from them.
 

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