The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Sullivan Aluminium Pedals

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

drano38 said:
Great!
If I make it to BIR for July PCA, I'll buy you a beer for my smart )*^ comment!

I take you up on that beer :D I could have used that beer last night the way my shoulder was feeling. Gary and I are attending the BIR Nord Stern event early May and I also hope to do the July event.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,008
1,924
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
LS110 said:
Good idea Steve. I should have done that to start with, and that will be especially helpful for my this weekend when I install the Auto-Blip.
Seat removal for Auto Blip install is a must unless you are 5'-5" and less than 150 lbs. The brake harness is the biznitch. Take your time removing the tape around the wires.
Steve
 
OK, you guys convinced me. :p
I just ordered a set of black/silver anodized with the grid pattern.
I guess I have a few weeks to find a 90 deg drill. 8)

OT - Wayne - If you go to Brainard in July, let me know. I'm looking to add a track day mid summer. :)
 
Got it done :) My cordless drill worked fine without the 90 degree device. I went with three bolts in the clutch and brake pedals, 5 screws in the gas pedal and six 3/4" screws in the dead mans pedal. This thread was extremely helpful to simplify the job. Thank you to all of you that have posted here!

photo_zps1cdee8d6.png
 
LS110 said:
Bummer! I need all the excesses I can get. :p

Ha - you can take this one from me but I have 99 more in the ol' bagoexcuses ready to go.

Too much rubber on the track, weather keeps changing, had the pressures set wrong, could not get any clean laps in .....................
 
I'm installing my pedals now and ran into an issue. Wanted to see how everyone else installed them. @Black Boss @Boss_302

On the gas pedal, I lined up the top of the pedal to the old location and now the SRP pedal is hitting the carpet and not allowing it to go WOT. Which is, of course, the most important thing in the whole world. Did anyone else have this issue? It doesn't look like there's a lot of room to move it up.

Here's a picture of the pedal from the backside.

IMG_20160924_113244041_zpsaih7m6hv.jpg
 
125
123
Tob has a thread on SVTP on installing them with all the tips and some follow up from others.
It's linked a page back in this thread
 
StigsBaldBrother said:
I'm installing my pedals now and ran into an issue. Wanted to see how everyone else installed them. @Black Boss @Boss_302

On the gas pedal, I lined up the top of the pedal to the old location and now the SRP pedal is hitting the carpet and not allowing it to go WOT. Which is, of course, the most important thing in the whole world. Did anyone else have this issue? It doesn't look like there's a lot of room to move it up.

Sorry for your predicament, but thanks for the heads-up, as I just received and installed my SRP pedals.

Based on your issue, I decided to keep the bottom-right corner (as seen from driver seat) of the SRP gas pedal in the same location as the stock pedal. That way, no chance of snagging on the carpet either below (floor mat) or to the right (transmission hump).

That meant moving the SRP gas pedal up on the pedal assembly, where, as you noted, the SRP gas pedal no longer sits flush on the pedal assembly. Rather than file away some plastic on the pedal assembly -- seems wrong to potentially weaken the pedal arm -- I ground out a notch in the top inside edge of the SRP gas pedal. The notch was about 1" wide and 1/2" tall, and about 2/3 of the thickness of the gas pedal, so that the gas pedal better fit against the pedal assembly. Can't notice it from the front.

Other tricks or tidbits, some of which have been mentioned here or in other installation guides, in case anybody has waited even longer than me! :)
- I did not remove the drivers seat. Instead, I drove the car up onto Race Ramps, and actually had a somewhat comfortable seated position on the ground, because I didn't have to lean down as far. I have to thank my neighbor for that tip.
- For the clutch and brake pads, I drilled holes in the four corners of the steel support areas, rather than a triangular pattern as shown in the SRP instructions. But the kit comes with only six machine screws and lock nuts. [I just sent an email to SRP Brian asking him to send me two more machine screws and lock nuts. The pedals seem secure, just want to attach the top-left corners more for visual symmetry.]
- I loosened the rear driver-side Speed Bleeder brake bleeder. Along with a McLeod RST clutch (so lighter clutch pedal), it was easy to depress the clutch and brake pedals when I was drilling the top two holes (starting with 1/16" drill bit, and several steps up to 3/16" drill bit). I used just my regular Craftsman electric drill.... I did not need a 90-degree drill attachment.

Not sure if I will install the dead pedal.... haven't missed not having one in the first place.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Top