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Suspension stuff

Can you guys let me know if these parts will work togeather? Or if I need anything else.
FRPP T springs
FRPP lower control arms M-5650-A
FRPP relo bracket M-5649-S
From American Muscle-
S&R performance bump steer kit
Steeda adj pan hard bar 555-2551
Steeda upper control arm
What hardware is one time use only that I should buy?
Not going to track the car, just want a better stance, and if I do decide to track it down the road, I will be ready except fro breaks and rubber.
 
If you're not going to track the car I'd stick with the springs, relocation brackets, LCA's and adjustable panhard bar to recenter the axle and be done with it. Save your money and go to the track at least once. ;D
 
So don't bother with the UCA or the bump steer kit? There is no tracks within a 1000 mile radius from me. There might be some parking lot stuff around a 3-4 hour drive, so not much chance in a good track experience. I guess I will get an MGW shifter and an oil catch can instead. Maybe I'll try the 84.5mm throttle body that doesn't need a tune.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
If you're not going to the track, I'd start with:
T springs
Whiteline LCA brackets (or other that let you use the stock rear LCAs)
Adjustable panhard

You don't need to do anything for the front, but I'd do caster camber plates and/or Steeda X-11 ball joints before the bumpsteer kit.
 

jneary

Performance Fords
323
0
Norcal
You didn't mention if you had Trackey already. That would be #1 on the list along with the springs and brackets mentioned earlier. This will augment the 84.5mm Throttle body as mentioned in another post here.

SO, the shopping cart looks like this:

KBR37.jpg

M5300T.jpg

M4264A.jpg


And I'd throw in this for ease of servicability...

M-4033-KA__03588.1367434252.1280.1280.jpg
 
Ugh, stance. That all looks good, I think you might want to replace the stock UCA mount as well. I would strongly recommend doing the UCA, probably best mod, though you might want some dynamat for the trunk though afterwords.
 
Brandon302-- I've been thinking of replacing the UCA mount after my mechanic mentioned it a while back. Could you expound on why the stock unit should be replaced? Thanks in advance!
 
Brewmaster said:
Brandon302-- I've been thinking of replacing the UCA mount after my mechanic mentioned it a while back. Could you expound on why the stock unit should be replaced? Thanks in advance!

The stock UCA bushing is basically a giant gummy bear, it is very easy to wiggle the mount with one arm. Any after market unit should be much stiffer, you get much more noise this way but it really seems to help a lot more than just traction. Plus you can do it yourself, and for about 300 or less a mount and UCA can be had,
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Brandon302 said:
The stock UCA bushing is basically a giant gummy bear, it is very easy to wiggle the mount with one arm. Any after market unit should be much stiffer, you get much more noise this way but it really seems to help a lot more than just traction. Plus you can do it yourself, and for about 300 or less a mount and UCA can be had,

Lots of track cars are running the stock UCA. I want it to be compliant and don't have any issues with it that way.

Most aftermarket UCAs will BIND, unless it has a heim joint or two. My cars are driven on the street, so pass on that.
 
Grant 302 said:
Lots of track cars are running the stock UCA. I want it to be compliant and don't have any issues with it that way.

Most aftermarket UCAs will BIND, unless it has a heim joint or two. My cars are driven on the street, so pass on that.

Odd, I was unaware of issues with them binding, I wouldn't think they would bind if everything else were stiffer.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
437
Southeast
Jason said:
Can you guys let me know if these parts will work togeather? Or if I need anything else.
FRPP T springs
FRPP lower control arms M-5650-A
FRPP relo bracket M-5649-S
From American Muscle-
S&R performance bump steer kit
Steeda adj pan hard bar 555-2551
Steeda upper control arm
What hardware is one time use only that I should buy?
Not going to track the car, just want a better stance, and if I do decide to track it down the road, I will be ready except fro breaks and rubber.

Jason:
Nice car, I have a 2012, but pretty much same components. If you are looking to improve a few things on your Boss like reduce rear wheel hop, improve traction improve weight transfer and improve the shifting, then your on the right track. I have come to learn that you can't go wrong with selecting FRPP for upgrades to your Boss. But somethings you have to go to the aftermarket.

Lower the car with the T springs, I installed these and am very happy with them. LCA & LCA Brackets with an adjustable panhard bar is necessary to re center the rear axle as when you lower the car you will see a bit more tire on the passenger side wheel well. Shop Tip: Any part you buy that is adjustable, be sure to check that it is adjustable while installed on the car. Now while you are there, replace the OEM stamped steel panhard brace with one that is box steel construction, they are about 100-120 or so.

I still run the OEM UCA and like it as it is quite. I removed my KB GT4 UCA unit because of the clunk / Popping noise. It was bad. But it is not missed performance wise. I adjusted my pinion angle with my adjustable LCA's, but you may have to select the a Steeda Adjustable UCA if you need a pinion angle adjustment. Steeda makes good stuff.

You should also consider a one piece DS. The stock unit employs a center hanger bearing with a gummy bear support bush. Huge deflection on WOT starts. I like one piece DS units that do not use a CVJ. With mine, I noticed much better weight transfer on WOT starts. Not to mention you save a lot of weight. One of my top 3 favorite mods.

Ditch the Bump Steer Kits, dot needed with T springs. Shifter, yes check the FRPP unit by Barton or the MGW unit. I watched the MGW website video that compares every part, like what I saw and went with the MGW competition unit and heat shield. Love it.

Oil catch can is a must, or an open breather system as seen on this Forum will save your intake tract from excessive carbon build up down the road. If you plan on keeping her for many years to come. One of these guys has the finest 302S system I have ever seen. Maybe YellowBoss? Not sure, I'm kinda new here.

TracKey is so much fun and it from ford, so it's safe to fun and no worries about voided warranty. I saw Camber Plates mentioned but if you don't need max negative camber for the track, you might not need them, as the stock Boss 302 has a great front end set up right out of the box.

A lot of guys/girls replace the axle backs and FRPP offers a K&N high flow filter, there are endless choices with axle back mufflers, but remember if you run open side exhaust, a low restriction axle back system will alter the sound of the open side pipes.

I hope this information helps you, please keep up posted as to your progress. 302 Hi Pro.
Here is a pic of my rear setup. See below

20130706_105533_zps86945cfd.jpg

20130706_105542_zps90fbd0d6.jpg

20130706_105648_zps4ac5481b.jpg
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Brandon302 said:
Odd, I was unaware of issues with them binding, I wouldn't think they would bind if everything else were stiffer.

The UCA needs to twist and turn relatively freely. Any poly (or rubber) bushings in this location will bind. It's just a question of how much. Ideally, both joints would have some type of spherical link that does not resist the twisting motion much or at all.
 
302 Hi Pro said:
Jason:
Nice car, I have a 2012, but pretty much same components. If you are looking to improve a few things on your Boss like reduce rear wheel hop, improve traction improve weight transfer and improve the shifting, then your on the right track. I have come to learn that you can't go wrong with selecting FRPP for upgrades to your Boss. But somethings you have to go to the aftermarket.

Lower the car with the T springs, I installed these and am very happy with them. LCA & LCA Brackets with an adjustable panhard bar is necessary to re center the rear axle as when you lower the car you will see a bit more tire on the passenger side wheel well. Shop Tip: Any part you buy that is adjustable, be sure to check that it is adjustable while installed on the car. Now while you are there, replace the OEM stamped steel panhard brace with one that is box steel construction, they are about 100-120 or so.

I still run the OEM UCA and like it as it is quite. I removed my KB GT4 UCA unit because of the clunk / Popping noise. It was bad. But it is not missed performance wise. I adjusted my pinion angle with my adjustable LCA's, but you may have to select the a Steeda Adjustable UCA if you need a pinion angle adjustment. Steeda makes good stuff.

You should also consider a one piece DS. The stock unit employs a center hanger bearing with a gummy bear support bush. Huge deflection on WOT starts. I like one piece DS units that do not use a CVJ. With mine, I noticed much better weight transfer on WOT starts. Not to mention you save a lot of weight. One of my top 3 favorite mods.

Ditch the Bump Steer Kits, dot needed with T springs. Shifter, yes check the FRPP unit by Barton or the MGW unit. I watched the MGW website video that compares every part, like what I saw and went with the MGW competition unit and heat shield. Love it.

Oil catch can is a must, or an open breather system as seen on this Forum will save your intake tract from excessive carbon build up down the road. If you plan on keeping her for many years to come. One of these guys has the finest 302S system I have ever seen. Maybe YellowBoss? Not sure, I'm kinda new here.

TracKey is so much fun and it from ford, so it's safe to fun and no worries about voided warranty. I saw Camber Plates mentioned but if you don't need max negative camber for the track, you might not need them, as the stock Boss 302 has a great front end set up right out of the box.

A lot of guys/girls replace the axle backs and FRPP offers a K&N high flow filter, there are endless choices with axle back mufflers, but remember if you run open side exhaust, a low restriction axle back system will alter the sound of the open side pipes.

I hope this information helps you, please keep up posted as to your progress. 302 Hi Pro.
Here is a pic of my rear setup. See below

20130706_105533_zps86945cfd.jpg

20130706_105542_zps90fbd0d6.jpg

20130706_105648_zps4ac5481b.jpg
Thank you very much. great stuff there. The stance and reduced wheel hop is what I'm aiming to fix. I have been told BMR stuff is realy good, so I might go with the T springs and BMR upper, lower adjustable control arms, BMR adj panhard bar, relo brackt and PHB support brace. I'm not going to do anything to the front and I already have 12 GT500 axle backs and a K&N drop in air filter. I will buy the oil catch can for sure. Thanks for the photo's of your setup, looks great.
 
302 Hi Pro said:
I still run the OEM UCA and like it as it is quite. I removed my KB GT4 UCA unit because of the clunk / Popping noise. It was bad. But it is not missed performance wise. I adjusted my pinion angle with my adjustable LCA's, but you may have to select the a Steeda Adjustable UCA if you need a pinion angle adjustment. Steeda makes good stuff.
There have been failures with the KB UCA so if yours was making noise it's bad. You should contact KB and have them replace it.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Brandon302 said:
Not to thread jack, what would binding from the UCA sound like?

Shouldn't be any noise unless there's some additional problem, or it can help noises develop as bushings and other hardware degrade from the added stress.
 
1,022
97
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Texas
My steeda Heim/Spherical bearing UCA makes a lot of noise. It clunks around back there…I don't ever notice it on the track but driving around on the street it can get annoying. I am going to switch to a poly UCA cause I hate hearing that noise. It sounds like there is some play in the bearing that is causing it to make the clunking noise. I don't remember it doing that initially when I installed it so maybe it has stretched out a little and the tolerances aren't quite as tight.
 
Flyboygsxr said:
My steeda Heim/Spherical bearing UCA makes a lot of noise. It clunks around back there…I don't ever notice it on the track but driving around on the street it can get annoying. I am going to switch to a poly UCA cause I hate hearing that noise. It sounds like there is some play in the bearing that is causing it to make the clunking noise. I don't remember it doing that initially when I installed it so maybe it has stretched out a little and the tolerances aren't quite as tight.

I think that noise is backlash, I get the same from the Whiteline UCA.
 

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