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SVE Drift 18X10 +43: The perfect track wheel?

zzyzx

Steve
299
0
The perfect economical track wheel?

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/SVE-1007FD/2005-13-Mustang-Flat-Black-SVE-Drift-18X10

sve-1007fd_6751.jpg

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5m9YhXKd34[/youtube]

18X10 +43 (ideal offset)

So they look good, are the right size and offset and are cheap as dirt ($150/ea).

Can anybody convince me why these aren't the perfect economical track wheel?

Does anybody know the exact weight on these?

I know of people using these on the track and I haven't heard any complaints. Anybody have any first hand experience with these they'd like to share?

I say track wheel because that's what I'm looking for, not because these aren't road worthy - quite the opposite. That said, they don't appear to come in a 19X10.

I've made the mistake before of taking my high $$$ unobtanium ultralight wheels (for autox competition...) to track days before only to come away with bent wheels, which I'd prefer not to repeat. The idea of a readily replaceable $150 track wheel is alluring to me. :)

Thanks!
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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Cookeville TN
I run both these SVE wheels and the AMR wheel for track and they both have worked well, and at $150 are dirt cheap. The only things I don't like is the SVE wheel has small lug access hole so you have to be careful with the socket to avoid damage to the finish(had to remove the nylon protector from my lug socket for it to fit). Also always check torque between runs as I've had torque creep a few times and it made the car feel loose. After each event I have checked for cracks and so far no visible issues. Weight wise my 18"x10" with 305 slicks weigh in at 57 lbs vs 19"x10" 302S wheel with 285 Pirelli which weighs 59.5 lbs. not super light but a small savings per corner
Steve
 
I saw these a while back but wasn't sure about the quality so I am curious as well.

Also, does anyone know the weight of the wheel itself?
 
I purchased the 18x9 to use as winter wheels. They look great!

I did also want to mention about torque creep. I didn't feel very confident when i was torqueing the lug nuts. I think it's the finish of the wheel. it felt like the lug nut was slipping, instead of turning at a constant pace whipe I applied torque. but that couldve also been from the lug nuts, because they were new as well.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Jimmy Pribble said:
Clicking on the linky reveals that they are 24 lbs. YMMV. ;)

;) That's the reason these have been on my list for my GT...just not sure if I'm getting these or D-force or F14s in the same size. Those are both ~20 lbs. each...so I'm just not sure the ~16 lbs. rotating mass lost is worth another $700 or $800 to me.

One more concern for me is the clearance, since I am running camber bolts. I might need to spend another $300-400 for CC plates just to ditch the bolts :(

My other option is to run 18x9.5...but I don't really want to do that.
 
1,281
3
Tulsa, OK
I just purchased two sets of these wheels for my GT for all the reasons you mentioned. They look good, they're cheap, and they're the right size. We'll see how they hold up for track duty.
 
2,068
883
Bay Area
Roadhouse said:
I just purchased two sets of these wheels for my GT for all the reasons you mentioned. They look good, they're cheap, and they're the right size. We'll see how they hold up for track duty.

how low is your car? I am thinking of getting these and lowering my car 1-1.5 inches for track use.
 

zzyzx

Steve
299
0
So, I'm guessing those ^ are 19X9.5 +35, correct? They look a little outboard of where I'd expect a +43 to sit. Visually, they look like 19s, but it can be hard to tell sometimes...

Thanks for all the feedback, guys. So far, looks like a "buy" rating to me. :)
 
1,281
3
Tulsa, OK
zzyzx said:
So, I'm guessing those ^ are 19X9.5 +35, correct? They look a little outboard of where I'd expect a +43 to sit. Visually, they look like 19s, but it can be hard to tell sometimes...

Thanks for all the feedback, guys. So far, looks like a "buy" rating to me. :)

Those are 18x10s all around. There is a small spacer on the rears in these pictures which could be throwing you off. I've since removed the spacers and the wheels sit more flush with the fenders.
 
These have been on my list for a while now as well. I believe smittytx runs these on his 302S so perhaps he can chime in on them. Heres a picture of Mark's car while it was at Vorshlag getting that fantastic exhaust put on.


jDSC_5412-X3.jpg
 
I ran SVE wheels but a different style for many track days with NT05's on them

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/05-Mustang-SVE-Anniversary-Wheels

no complaints at all, well worth the money for weekend tracking - IMHO
 

ace72ace

Zaino, I put that $hit on everything
1,242
71
As these wheels are so affordable, does it make sense to buy 5 of them so that you can have a full spare tire ready to go as cheap 'track day' insurance to keep you racing should you get a flat? If you are only doing a few events per year, and have to pay travel expenses, fuel, fees & insurance, to me it makes sense that you would have at least 1 or 2 spares 'just in case'.

And since front tires will wear out more quickly than the rears tread, not heat cycling), can you get maximum tire life on a squared setup where you can rotate an extra pair of tires/wheels? My budget is very tight, as just getting the Boss was a stretch for me this year. I won't be able to start tracking my Boss until later this year, or possibly next year once I can save up enough to get all of the required gear.

Also, would racing studs eliminate/alleviate the 'torque creep' mentioned above?
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
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Cookeville TN
ace72ace said:
Also, would racing studs eliminate/alleviate the 'torque creep' mentioned above?

I run ARP studs and Ford Racing lug nuts and it still happens but only sometimes and only on the rears. Seems to have to do with the first heat cycling of a track day. I try to run the car around the paddock turning the car back and forth and applying the brakes sharply when I change to track wheels. Then retorque before the first session, always check lug torque after each session.
Steve
 
Grant 302 said:
;) That's the reason these have been on my list for my GT...just not sure if I'm getting these or D-force or F14s in the same size. Those are both ~20 lbs. each...so I'm just not sure the ~16 lbs. rotating mass lost is worth another $700 or $800 to me.

One more concern for me is the clearance, since I am running camber bolts. I might need to spend another $300-400 for CC plates just to ditch the bolts :(

My other option is to run 18x9.5...but I don't really want to do that.

What D-Force wheels and size??

I had the "Mach V Motorsports"-branded D-Force's on my STI and loved them.. 17.8lbs a piece for 17" version and strong as hell. And how i know is through rally type dirt road runs and multiple times that car left the roads surface.

IMG_1796.jpg
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
DomEOD said:
What D-Force wheels and size??

I had the "Mach V Motorsports"-branded D-Force's on my STI and loved them.. 17.8lbs a piece for 17" version and strong as hell. And how i know is through rally type dirt road runs and multiple times that car left the roads surface.
8) Cool.
Only available in 18x10, and coincidentally also made for newer STis:
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_268&products_id=505
 

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