S550 Swedish Muzilla GT-R Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

[Puppski]

This is the Build Thread for Swedish Muztang GT-R. Reply below.

 

[Puppski]

A couple of months back I bought a S550 Mustang GT 2020 (10R80).

Its my first Mustang and actually my first American car but Im in the start process of trying to build it too a quite fast but versatile track car..


As a background Im a real rookie to Mustangs but been racing(Circuit and TimeAttack) and building a Porsche before on a quite high level.
The thing is that in the US the Mustangs are super common but over here in Sweden the are only known for running of the road all the time due to really bad handling... ;-) That was quite impelling to me since ive been reading up on them a bit and realize they we have some hidden potential here to scare and potentially surprise some Porsches at the track.. I set my goal pretty high and the idea is to be able match a Porsche 991Gt3RS at the track... I think going after a 992 would be to much of a ask but a 991 should potentially be doable...

Any way im right now in the process trying to figure out the recipe for doing it but the issue with mustangs is not that is hard to find parts, its the other way around with to many options!! ;-) ;-)

Ive been "stalking" threads from FlyHalf and others on the forum but not written anything since im a rookie with not much to add to the discussion but eager to learn a bit more and think I picked up a little from your great and fast builds on the forum, especially FlyHalf..

The recipe in my build right now look like below and I would be super grateful for some suggestions, objections, tips and tricks!




Mustang GT 2020 PP2 EU model

Engine/transmission:

Mishimoto trans-cooler

Mishimoto main cooler

Mishimoto 71C termostat

K&N catch-can
ESS G3X supercharger with G4-IC

WG controlled boost to get a little more midrange and less top-end.

Arcane dual pump fuel system

1000CC FIM injectors

E85 fuel

Boundary Racing Pumps Billet Oil Pump Gears; MartenWear
Boundary Racing Pumps Billet Crankshaft Timing Sprocket
X-Pipe
Cat-delete


Wengard tune for engine and gearbox
 Idea is to run aprox 700-750hp on track and try to keep the cooling in order which Ive seen is really hard on the 10R80(Next step is potentially a RSA built transmission).



Body:
GT500 vented hood

GT-style rear wing
Ducktail rear spoiler
Front splitter

boxed coolers in the front.



Wheels:
Velgen 20x10 front
Velgen 20x11 rear

pilot sport cup 2 305/35/20 front

pilot sport cup 2 325/35/20 rear


Chassie:
Whiteline front swaybar
Whiteline rear swaybar
Whiteline vertical links

Adjustable Toe-link s rear

BMR Rear Camber Adjustment Lockout Kit
Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber Plates
Coilovers not bought yet but the idea is Ohlins Road & Track, what do you think of those? Also some suggestions on spring rates would very much be appreciated!?

Overall around chassie im very confused because of IRS braces etc and other stuff that I never seen on a Porsche?!?

I'm also not sure what else I should do to get the most out of the chassie with out re-doing everything Ford built, im not sure what give the most and I dont want to through money in the ocean that does not give anything useful.

Its also a lot of stuff sold for the IRS back-end but not much for the front?!? Any ideas suggestions?!



What do you think overall, what have i forgotten and what am im doing wrong?

 

[302BOB]

Welcome Puppski, Thanks for sharing your Swedish Muztang with us!...............When I first saw the Swedish title pop up I immediately thought of meatballs.........which I haven't enjoyed for longer than I care to remember.............Food is food and Cars are Cars and we enjoy them both here on TMO........................BTW, You seem to have a great recipe cooking for a great fast car....................enjoy your rewards!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Puppski]

Welcome Puppski, Thanks for sharing your Swedish Muztang with us!...............When I first saw the Swedish title pop up I immediately thought of meatballs.........which I haven't enjoyed for longer than I care to remember.............Food is food and Cars are Cars and we enjoy them both here on TMO........................

Thanks!! Well I guess its time for some Meatballs then!!! ;-)

 

[Dave_W]

Personally, I would hold off on the supercharger until after you do everything else and drive it for awhile - save it as a phase 2 upgrade. Boost adds a lot of heat to the intake air that you need to remove, plus the added power adds more heat to the engine that you also need to remove. Before needing to deal with all that extra cooling, see if you like the car naturally aspirated with some upgrades. If you need more power, look at doing L&M Intake-side cams and a good long-tube exhaust header (ARH) before the supercharger.

Take a look at the CSF Racing 7073 radiator - it's a true triple-pass, 2-row radiator.
The Boundary Racing oil pump is a good upgrade; you probably also want an oil pan that has more volume and trap doors (Moroso or Canton, steel is more durable than aluminum) to go with it. Or you can get the Ford Performance GT500 kit that has a trap-door aluminum pan and upgraded pump. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6675-M52S
Not sure about the K&N catch can - take a look at the Ford M-6766-A50A seperator. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6766-A50A
Depending on where you mount the trans cooler, you probably need a fan for it.
Add a differential cooler/fan kit if the PP2 doesn't come with one; the IRS diffs don't have the axle tubes to dissipate heat like the solid axle cars.
Possibly a Setrab 948 oil cooler and AN-12 (not -10) lines, definitely if you do the supercharger.
Consider adding hood vents that are wind-tunnel tested, like Race Louvers.

Vorshlag camber plates are generally better quality and can yield more camber (especially if you open the strut tower hole) than the Maximum Motorport plates.

Ohlins are very good shocks (their TTX series is used in top-level racing), I know their Road & Track / DFV shocks are popular in the Miata community. If you buy from Vorshlag you can get them with their camber plates. They are only songle-adjustable, working only on rebound. If you want dual-adjustable for the ablity to control compression as well, look at the MCS, also available from Vorshlag. If you can afford it, another option is a double-adjustable Penske kit. Cortex offers either 7500-series internal reservoir or 8300-series external reservoir Penske shocks for the rear.

2018-2022 Mustang Suspension | Cortex Racing

www.cortexracing.com

2015-2023 Shelby Double Adjustable Suspension

Shelby Store - Shelby Parts, Shelby GT500 Parts, Shelby Super Snake, Shelby Apparel, Shelby GT500 Shirts, Shelby GT500 Hats, Shelby Die Cast Models, Shelby Super Snake Hats, Shelby Super Snake Shirts

www.shelbystore.com

20" wheels will probably limit you on tire selection. The go-to has been 18x11 et52 wheels from (site sponsor) Apex on all four corners (need 25mm spacers, extended studs, and open lug nuts on front). This let you use sticky street tires and racing slicks, and rotate wheels/tires front-back to even wear. Lately, more performance tires, and some racing slicks, are coming in 19" so that's becoming a valid alternate, again in 11" width all around.

 

[Puppski]

Personally, I would hold off on the supercharger until after you do everything else and drive it for awhile - save it as a phase 2 upgrade. Boost adds a lot of heat to the intake air that you need to remove, plus the added power adds more heat to the engine that you also need to remove. Before needing to deal with all that extra cooling, see if you like the car naturally aspirated with some upgrades. If you need more power, look at doing L&M Intake-side cams and a good long-tube exhaust header (ARH) before the supercharger.

Take a look at the CSF Racing 7073 radiator - it's a true triple-pass, 2-row radiator.
The Boundary Racing oil pump is a good upgrade; you probably also want an oil pan that has more volume and trap doors (Moroso or Canton, steel is more durable than aluminum) to go with it. Or you can get the Ford Performance GT500 kit that has a trap-door aluminum pan and upgraded pump. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6675-M52S
Not sure about the K&N catch can - take a look at the Ford M-6766-A50A seperator. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6766-A50A
Depending on where you mount the trans cooler, you probably need a fan for it.
Add a differential cooler/fan kit if the PP2 doesn't come with one; the IRS diffs don't have the axle tubes to dissipate heat like the solid axle cars.
Possibly a Setrab 948 oil cooler and AN-12 (not -10) lines, definitely if you do the supercharger.
Consider adding hood vents that are wind-tunnel tested, like Race Louvers.

Vorshlag camber plates are generally better quality and can yield more camber (especially if you open the strut tower hole) than the Maximum Motorport plates.

Ohlins are very good shocks (their TTX series is used in top-level racing), I know their Road & Track / DFV shocks are popular in the Miata community. If you buy from Vorshlag you can get them with their camber plates. They are only songle-adjustable, working only on rebound. If you want dual-adjustable for the ablity to control compression as well, look at the MCS, also available from Vorshlag. If you can afford it, another option is a double-adjustable Penske kit. Cortex offers either 7500-series internal reservoir or 8300-series external reservoir Penske shocks for the rear.

2018-2022 Mustang Suspension | Cortex Racing

www.cortexracing.com

2015-2023 Shelby Double Adjustable Suspension

Shelby Store - Shelby Parts, Shelby GT500 Parts, Shelby Super Snake, Shelby Apparel, Shelby GT500 Shirts, Shelby GT500 Hats, Shelby Die Cast Models, Shelby Super Snake Hats, Shelby Super Snake Shirts

www.shelbystore.com

20" wheels will probably limit you on tire selection. The go-to has been 18x11 et52 wheels from (site sponsor) Apex on all four corners (need 25mm spacers, extended studs, and open lug nuts on front). This let you use sticky street tires and racing slicks, and rotate wheels/tires front-back to even wear. Lately, more performance tires, and some racing slicks, are coming in 19" so that's becoming a valid alternate, again in 11" width all around.

Thanks for all the really good suggestions in your extensive response, much appreciated!
Most things are already bought but I will consider exchanging over time. As mentioned Im a rookie with Mustangs so im eager to learn.
With that said im not completely without experience when it comes to racing boosted cars!
All the bellow are already in the garage!

So lets dig in a little bit.

Engine/transmission:

Mishimoto trans-cooler
 (considering adding another cooler in series after your message but stated to have a 20 row and 180% increase compare to OEM)

Transmission Cooler (Auto), fits Ford Mustang GT/V6/EcoBoost 2015+

Complement your cooling system with the latest addition to Mishimoto's Mustang GT performance parts line, the all-new Mustang GT automatic transmission cooler. The stock Mustang GT transmission cooler does an ample job of keeping temperatures down, but with any hard driving or track time, trans...

www.mishimoto.eu

Mishimoto main cooler
 (Ive seen @highfly promoting this cooler and its a 77% increase compared to OEM so hopefully its good enough)

Performance Aluminium Radiator, fits Ford Mustang GT 2015+

The Mustang GT/GT350's powerful V8 engines are a feat of engineering, but every engine needs to maintain proper engine temperatures. After whining the engine out to its redline during some hot laps at the track engine temps will start to rise. The Mishimoto Mustang GT/GT350 radiator is up to the...

www.mishimoto.eu

Mishimoto 71C termostat
 (Potentially gives a little more headroom before over-heating)

K&N catch-can (I wished ive seen you Ford OEM before I bought this)

ESS G3X supercharger with G4-IC
 (I use the centrifugal SC and large Air-AIr IC just to keep IAT as low as possible especially with just 6Psi so it should be good on that)

WG controlled boost to get a little more midrange and less top-end.
 (With this setup I can get a little more midrange but not crazy heat creeping with alot of boost top-end)

Uncertain around the diff cooler on GT EU spec that's on the list to investigate. I found this that Im considering.

Rear Differential Oil Cooler Kit for 2015-24 S550 / S650 Mustang [777600] - $769.99 : Modular Motorsports, Home of the worlds fastest Fords

Modular Motorsports Rear Differential Oil Cooler Kit for 2015-24 S550 / S650 Mustang [777600] - If you have ever taken your S550 Mustang GT to an open Track Day, HPDE, Autocross or Time Trial you have likely seen the dreaded Differential warning light turn on. Overheating is VERY common and this...

www.modularmotorsportsracing.com

 

[Puppski]

* Consider adding hood vents that are wind-tunnel tested, like Race Louvers.
Yes I added the GT500 hood and I hope that has vindtunnel testing done to it since its a OEM Ford design?? Im not adding the other hood vents as of now but you consider them just as important?

Vorshlag camber plates are generally better quality and can yield more camber (especially if you open the strut tower hole) than the Maximum Motorport plates.
Yes got it unfortunately I managed to order the Maximum before I got your message. I will consider upgrading later!

Ohlins are very good shocks (their TTX series is used in top-level racing), I know their Road & Track / DFV shocks are popular in the Miata community. If you buy from Vorshlag you can get them with their camber plates.
Yes Understood. Im from Sweden and been running the Ohlins dampers for about 10 years with the version before TTX. Its the Old 996 RSR design. 3-Way fully customized for my car, weight etc.. Im superhappy with them but goal with the Muzilla is not a FULL race car, the idea is a car that is still somewhat streetable but still give a 991GT3RS a run for the money at the track!

20" wheels will probably limit you on tire selection.
My opinion is quite the opposite... 18" is going out of market(Ive been running 18 for the last 15 years).. All new sportscars is running 19-21 inch... Its superhard to find R-Tires with a new rubber compond design and in Musclecar sizes at 18" or event 19.".. Its a heavy car and I want as much tire as possible preferebly 345 in the rear and 325 in front... I guess that will be hard to find, but atleast 305 front and 325 rear..

 

[Puppski]

When I started racing Porsche 15 years ago everyone told me to get a at that time a 996 GT3 that was suppose to be the superior car to the 996Turbo at the track...
But I had a Porsche 944 Turbocup earlier and knew the benfit of turbo and midrange power.. I Bought a crashed 996Turbo and rebuilt it to a CUP replica except for the power train. A couple of years later I was 10 seconds ahead compared to the GT3:s...

Scrapyard Rescue: From Wreck To Record Breaker - Speedhunters

We are human beings. We like fast cars. We like cool-looking cars. We really like fast, cool-looking cars. And apparently for some reason, we also love to look at photos of said cars being wrecked. It’s just the way things go. If some guy out there happens to crash his Ferrari or McLaren, you...

www.speedhunters.com

 

[JDee]

You would be better going 305 square on 19s.
For one thing, other than used race slicks on 18s which can be hard to get, there are lots of 305/19 tires around.
Mustangs have lots of rear grip, the problem is to get them to stop pushing. All that weight up front puts a lot of extra load on the front tires. Going with wider rears will exacerbate the problem.
I think I have experienced oversteer with a Mustang 5 or 6 times in 9 years of track days, meanwhile, I experience push on almost every lap.
My DH has 305/315s. That is going to be replaced by 305s square for track days, that's the secret sauce to make a Mustang handle.
Race cars are a total different story.
That's just the way it is.

 

[Puppski]

Some years later I rebuilt it again to a RSR replica and I was runner up in the TimeAttack Nordics Championship for two years and then won the Championship for two years before I retired the car back in 2017 from Racing... We built it back to the streets and made it roadlegal once again with Idea of having it as weekend track car... But its to extreme and the level of fun was not there anymore, escpeciallly since it will always be slower then it was in its prime!

This is the reason behind the Muzilla.. The idea is to keep the stereo and be able to use it on streets, the track and "Cars and coffe" if that fits the schedule!

The Old green is up for sale...

Porsche 911 997 RSR Turbo Coupe Time Attack road legal

Street-legal race car with a logbook from the Swedish Motorsport Federation.

racecarsdirect.com

 

[Puppski]

You would be better going 305 square. Mustangs have lots of rear grip, the problem is to get them to stop pushing, all that weight up front puts a lot of extra load on the front tires. Going with wider rears will exacerbate the problem.
I think I have experienced oversteer with a Mustang 5 or 6 times in 9 years of track days, meanwhile, I experience push on almost every lap.
My DH has 305/315s. That is going to be replaced by 305s square for track days, that's the secret sauce to make a Mustang handle. That's just the way it is.

Thanks good point.. But Power equals speed and with more power you need more grip! ;-)
But you might certainly, be correct you have way more experience then me with the Mustangs. Im a rookie, so Im just trying to figure out the best way to beat a 991GT3RS!! ;-)

By the way when you say push you mean "understeer" under trail-breaking? Or just push under braking not getting it to stop?

 

[Mike_FL]

I would by pass Mishimoto stuff imo. I have their radiator and I wish I went for a triple pass aluminum radiator instead. The Mishimoto oil cooler kit used an10 lines when ford performance recommends an12.
19 inch wheels should be fine. Also cortex make some great suspension upgrades

 

[JDee]

Thanks good point.. But Power equals speed and with more power you need more grip! ;-)
But you might certainly, be correct you have way more experience then me with the Mustangs. Im a rookie, so Im just trying to figure out the best way to beat a 991GT3RS!! ;-)

By the way when you say push you mean "understeer" under trail-breaking? Or just push under braking not getting it to stop?

Push and understeer are the same thing, you turn the wheel but the car does not turn in the amount it should. Stock car guys call it push, road course guys call it understeer.
Push/understeer is easier to manage than loose/oversteer, you basically just lift off throttle and unless you've really overcooked it, the front end will tuck back in. If you're loose and you lift you're likely going around.
Forget the Porsche, that car is in an entirely different world than our Mustangs.

 

[302BOB]

Forget the Porsche, that car is in an entirely different world than our Mustangs.

Especially this one........ https://www.magnetomagazine.com/art...rsche-917k-hits-25-million-but-fails-to-sell/

 

[302BOB]

Like JDee says, When you're fighting understeer, oversteer, getting loose, getting tight, all those things spoil your day....................BUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. when you are DIALED in you are golden and you know it baby!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!......................................

 

[JAJ]

Especially this one........ https://www.magnetomagazine.com/art...rsche-917k-hits-25-million-but-fails-to-sell/

I never saw that one in real life, but I did see this one:

 

[302BOB]

Some say Mustang guys want to be Porsche boys........I prefer to be where I am........................

 

[Puppski]

Push and understeer are the same thing, you turn the wheel but the car does not turn in the amount it should. Stock car guys call it push, road course guys call it understeer.
Push/understeer is easier to manage than loose/oversteer, you basically just lift off throttle and unless you've really overcooked it, the front end will tuck back in. If you're loose and you lift you're likely going around.
Forget the Porsche, that car is in an entirely different world than our Mustangs.

Got it, im not native English speaking so sometimes the "flavor" in the enlish language get lost in translation! ;-)

Im pretty familiar with "under-steer" since Porsches are notoriously known for its under-steer before apex and trail breaking is the solution(somewhat) to move weight forward..

I guess this will be completely different with a heavy front-end trying to "tip" over the front wheels...

When doing corner weight are you trying to move weight backwards with a slightly lower back-end in ride-height??

 

[Puppski]

Some say Mustang guys want to be Porsche boys........I prefer to be where I am........................

Well here Im am as well as a Pony owner!! ;-) I really enjoy doing things others dont.. ;-)
Over here you practically NEVER see a mustang at a track event! On the other hand we have like 20 white Porsche GT3RS at every track-event... I really dont enjoy being one of those and for now I also think the Porsches are very over priced!
If I can beat them in a Mustang that would be really fun! ;-)

This is the view on Mustangs in Sweden! ;-) ;-)

 

[Puppski]

I would by pass Mishimoto stuff imo. I have their radiator and I wish I went for a triple pass aluminum radiator instead. The Mishimoto oil cooler kit used an10 lines when ford performance recommends an12.
19 inch wheels should be fine. Also cortex make some great suspension upgrades

Damn i already bought the Mishimoto coolers both for water and transmission!....