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PaddyPrix

TMO Intermediate
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Well, one thing about the PBs, doesn't look like the motor's ever been worked too hard! ;) :)

What was the quality and especially the weight like on the MBRP parts? They're kind of local to me and have been thinking about new exhaust to get rid of more weight.
I didn't bother to weigh it at the shop, my apologies :( The majority of the aftermarket component axlebacks are lighter than stock, and the elimination of the resonator probably saved me 10 pounds. I'd figure the added weight of that boomtube would probably make this one of the heavier ones, especially when compared to some of the other axle backs which are pretty much straight pipe and tips. I do know that they make 4 lines, one being the cheap stuff, stainless in 409 and 304, and black powder coated cheap stuff, and in Southern California, I'm not concerned about rust enough to go for stainless.

img_20200402_124430.jpg
 

JDee

Ancient Racer
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I didn't bother to weigh it at the shop, my apologies :( The majority of the aftermarket component axlebacks are lighter than stock, and the elimination of the resonator probably saved me 10 pounds. I'd figure the added weight of that boomtube would probably make this one of the heavier ones, especially when compared to some of the other axle backs which are pretty much straight pipe and tips. I do know that they make 4 lines, one being the cheap stuff, stainless in 409 and 304, and black powder coated cheap stuff, and in Southern California, I'm not concerned about rust enough to go for stainless.

View attachment 14492
Thanks for the update, they used to have the weights on their website, I'll call them and find out.
Yeah, I'd go for the cheapest shite they have, hoping it would be thin gauge and lighter, I'm only doing this to try and unload some more heavy OEM parts and my car rarely sees moisture. With my luck it would turn out the cheap stuff is crushed rusted out Japanese cars and is heavy as hell!

I also don't want loud due to inflexible noise limits at a lot of tracks now. Two of the 4 I regularly run are fanatical about sound levels due to proximity to towns.
 

Black Boss

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For simplicity's sake, wouldn't it be smarter to just disconnect/remove the Rear Constraint Module, supposing it only feeds the airbag sensors?
Enjoying the build!

The car will not run without the RCM, as it's on the CAN bus. Amongst other things it allows the fuel pumps to run (and cuts power to them if it senses an impact).

If you lightweight the wiring be very cautious of hidden grounds and CAN bus connections.
 

PaddyPrix

TMO Intermediate
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I also don't want loud due to inflexible noise limits at a lot of tracks now. Two of the 4 I regularly run are fanatical about sound levels due to proximity to towns.
That's a great point that until now I didn't even consider until now. They have a way of annoyingly placing those microphones in our worst of places too, the straightaways where we pull away from the cars that kill us in the turns.

The car will not run without the RCM, as it's on the CAN bus. Amongst other things it allows the fuel pumps to run (and cuts power to them if it senses an impact). If you lightweight the wiring be very cautious of hidden grounds and CAN bus connections.
Appreciate the feedback. I was just got my hands on some of the wiring and trying to figure out what can and can't go, and in trying to figure out what tuning software/hardware to get and what I can and can't tune out. In the long run, if I'm trying to save a total of what, 2-3 pounds, I could just fast for a day, or eat a couple of bowls of Super Colon Blow. Still a lot of things that can be done to save weight too, aluminum heads, carbon fiber bumper cover, hood, fiberglass fenders, lexan windshield, aluminum driveshaft, heck, even shortening up a bolt here and there :) I don't yet have enough sponsors to pay for any of that stuff, so it'll be team sweat and sawzall until then.

Edit - and stalking some of you through your builds, holy frijoles, I've got a loooooong way to go to catch up to some of you.
 
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PaddyPrix

TMO Intermediate
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Well like everything else, you can get it on Amazon -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N14YVDE/?tag=tmo302-20
Part of me thinks that the people hoarding all of the TP weren't panic buying, but rather, just preparing as they got a great deal buying this in bulk.

(edit - dang, Forum so smart to auto-replace and tag urls with affiliate link id's now? Things sure have come a long way since the UBB/vBulletin days!)
 

Fabman

Project: "Frankenstang"
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Well like everything else, you can get it on Amazon -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N14YVDE/?tag=tmo302-20
Part of me thinks that the people hoarding all of the TP weren't panic buying, but rather, just preparing as they got a great deal buying this in bulk.

(edit - dang, Forum so smart to auto-replace and tag urls with affiliate link id's now? Things sure have come a long way since the UBB/vBulletin days!)
Hahaha...that's actually not the brand I used, but hey, it could be awesome!
 

PaddyPrix

TMO Intermediate
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Got some time to dig deeper into it yesterday since it's been raining for the past few days. I'll get it into the garage shortly, but need to do a shuffle of sorts until then. It's hard to see in the earlier pictures, and I don't think I can put it back on, but I noticed it quite odd that the front bumper wouldn't go back on so easily, and that's partially because the previous owner (or thieves, I dunno) must have jacked it up from the front in an attempt to remove the bumper.
IMG_20200412_121104.jpg
I don't believe that's curved like that from the factory. So yeah, started taking the rest of the front off, started removing things like the windshield wiper fluid, and the plastic cover/guides that try to force aero into the engine bay. I also popped out the inner lining to the fenders, and then started to take the drivers' side fender off until I saw this :
img_20200411_180936_368.jpg
Those of you who have 2018+ Mustangs will surely recognize that as the factory non-factory screwdriver mounting location.

I made two full trips from San Diego to Long Beach, the first to pick up another hood for the 2019 since it was kind enough to donate its hood to the stripper, and uh, since I kinda didn't latch it down so well the last time I drove it, it kinda blew up 🥴 and kinda dented itself so I can't just hand it back as easily.
img_20200411_102529.jpg

The second trip was to get a new bumper. Hard to believe, but the previous owner used the same level of expertise as seen in other places to install the Roush kit, so they had to cut holes and whatnot all over the place, rendering the previous bumper kinda useless. Just tossed it on quickly for a test fit, but I think this is a nice change, yeah?
img_20200412_125653.jpgimg_20200412_125620.jpg
I haven't yet done the research, but thinking of blocking those sides off to more forcefully direct air into the center, or to mount an oil cooler behind one, and a tranny or diff cooler behind the other. Perhaps I'll round that out with the GT350 side fenders to let out some of the heat from them big brakes. The Vorshlag scoop+swoop plates do help, but these still do get rather hot, and perhaps I need to ease up on the threshold braking and start a little slower and concentrate on my balance and form. That said, I can always improve on my techniques, but I am also still running those Performance Pack rotors, which are pretty heavy comparatively, even moreso than the stock non-PP ones. I could also go with one of the many aftermarket rotor sets to cut down on some of that rotating mass which should improve things in a few areas.
 
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PaddyPrix

TMO Intermediate
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Ugh, if it seems too good to be true, chances are it is. Tossed on the GT350 front bumper and ordered what I thought to be the GT350 fenders from my local dealer for $278 each, which are usually $550ish from all the others, per fenderr. Drove down, picked it up, got home, opened it up and, well, there you have it GT350 fenders! :eek:


img_20200414_172418_720.jpg

Now, I just need to figure out where the other 349 GT's went.
 

PaddyPrix

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I don't know if I'll finish by tonight, but getting dirty today after returning the 2019 to stock. Never done this, but how hard could it be if I have an ample amount of curse words to keep me company?

93826831_1459545737560706_5723982217178663630_n.jpg
 

PaddyPrix

TMO Intermediate
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Today is going to be a good day, what better way to celebrate your birthday a month or so later? Don't think I'll be ready in time for Willow Springs for next weekend, especially since I haven't even taken this over 40mph yet. Lots of flushing and tunings to come.

IMG_20200426_095409.jpg

Also, good golly that passenger longtube was an install from hell. If I were to ever do it again, I'd bleed and remove the AC because the head and lines are in your way the whole time. I'd also not jack from the trans, but use an engine hoist. The driver side was significantly easier, partially because it's just a steering shaft disconnection and motor mount plate, and the bolts were silly easy and reachable from the top for all but maybe 2 of them. The hoist gave me plenty of space down below so I had better angles and wiggle room galore. Good to know for next time, if there is one.
 

PaddyPrix

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Got to spend more time underneath the car, which was nice. The pictures don't accurately show how dirty that really is, wish I took it now, but from how they originally extracted the car, towing it through the dirt with no tires means that the lower control arm's spring perch area was completely filled with dirt and rocks. In addition to those yellow calipers, I noticed that there are things I have to consider as I start moving along, as I had noticed as the factory shocks were toyed with. Stock, they have this circular threaded nut fused into their lower perch, I had noticed on both sides they were replaced with exhaust header bolts and nuts that barely fit. Didn't check the number, but those springs coming out look to be Ford Street springs, so I think they attempted a lowering kit and didn't button it up as well as they could have.

img_20200426_105705.jpg

So once bare, took off the LCA's and brake cleaned them to good as new, and had to dig around for some decent bolts that weren't too long, as I now have some beautiful hypercoils and their plate much closer to the lower perch.

img_20200426_181650.jpg

Put my stock rotors on which aren't damaged or yellow oversprayed, but could have used a quick wire brushing (doh!) and then put on the Glock R14's, which I've now just found out are green.

img_20200426_193256.jpg

That will drive me nuts because I f'n hate the Green Bay Packers. Tossed on the Apex 18x11 EC-7's with the Nitto NT01's for a test fit and verified that as expected, everything easily clears.

Adding to the someday, it'd be nice category:
Rear Spindles
Rear Brakes
Rear Swaybar/Endlinks/Toelinks/Bushings


What a lovely set of shocks, but then I am quite biased concerning MCS and have no problem admitting it, ha1
They are rather nice, that yellow/green glow screams QUIT YOUR DAY JOB AND GET ME ON THE TRACK ALREADY, which was thankfully droned out by the open headers. I hope to get to the fronts after work this week, but before I do that, I'll drill out a nice 2 3/4" hole in the shock towers to get a little more room with the Vorshlag CC plates.
 
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PaddyPrix

TMO Intermediate
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Also another Coronavirus project I've got for myself, and the car is to try to pick up crafting my own stuffs. I've got a GT350 bumper that I think looks alright, and wanted to put the GT350 fenders on. The 2018+ refresh changed the front fascia a bit, but as far as the fender is concerned, it only appears to be the tab changed and the angle where it meets the headlights change. I know a couple of here make their own stuff, totally open to anybody pointing me towards some good resources to start making some molds. Looks aren't all that important.

15-17 fender vs 18+ headlight mounting
94702647_226417958626591_2894705445224579072_n.jpg

Lengths pretty similar, angle and tab changed
94219878_227790091781401_2284103946345644032_n.jpg
 

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