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139
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Time Attack
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Under 3 Years
Bulgaria
Ah, that might be a you thing. I put that part on last, and before I fire it through, I always make sure to seat that properly in its little rectangular place first, then pull it through, and then tighten it up.
More like using the same hardware to much times I think. But yeah definitely a me problem. Still something that could happen to the Brembo's that probably wouldn't happen on AP or more track focused brand.
 
5,496
6,450
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W2W Racing
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20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
I had already been weighing the pros/cons of doing a full cage in my fun car. This is definitely making me take a harder look.
You'll never need a full cage until you do....then it will be critical.
 
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MD
More like using the same hardware to much times I think. But yeah definitely a me problem. Still something that could happen to the Brembo's that probably wouldn't happen on AP or more track focused brand.
Yea I do the same as Patrick. I put it on last. It requires very little torque spec. I seat the rectangular bit and tighten with hand/ratchet on opposite(inside) side. I change before and after every event and no where near having that part damaged. Maybe you just got it wrong one time and then repeated use made it worse.

but if we have people in here cutting record times on the same calipers for 2+ seasons at least, I would think they are more than capable. Hopefully you get yours straightened out

edit to add: if hardware is the issue you can buy new hardware for $25. If you bought new hardware for every weekend of the year, you still come out better than a BBK.
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
620
888
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Time Attack
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Under 3 Years
San Diego
Please keep this in mind - if you decide to install a full cage, make certain of a few key items:

  1. It meets or exceeds the CCRs/rules for the sanctioning body you plan to run with (read them thoroughly BEFORE buying any materials)
  2. It has ALL the required items - proper mounting plates, proper welding technique, correct design, and high density (read: 45.1) ROLL BAR PADDING (sorry, this was a sore spot for me @ the Champs, as I found too many cars didn't have proper padding)
  3. It gets inspected, and a logbook assigned
  4. You should no longer drive it on the street
The last bullet point is important - once a proper rollcage has been installed, street driving is out of the picture, unless you want to drive with a helmet all the time (eh, might not be a bad idea! :)). If you get into an accident on the street, your head, and other body parts, can and will contact the cage.

The results, as you can imagine, would be fugly.
Can't stress or echo that any louder than you did there, Adam. I remember those incidents back in January and spent a lot of time looking at that white Integra which now looks identical to mine, and that red Porsche (which I had initially thought was Charles or Debby who are great people in the 944/TT6 fam,) but the fact that I didn't know them doesn't change the fact that this stuff can be super dangerous, yes, even if you're putting around in a 944. Nobody here benches 2400# last I checked.

Also, thank you for looking out and taking the time to spell it out for all those who may be watching. There's a reason you guys are difficult and unrelenting, and because of it, I'm living proof. That whole safety section had me going back and forth with my shop and compliance for a few months, with annoying u-haul rentals and tows going all over the county. It'll certainly get annoying at times, so those of you getting up to or at and this point, it's best just bite it and do it right the first time and to leave no stone unturned.

There's not too much headroom for 6+ footers with the s550 roof, cage tubing, and then some fatty SFI 38.1 hard plastic guards pretty much resting on your noggin. If you're driving around town (why?) with something like 1100# springs, it takes just the tiniest of bumps to beat some sense into you, helmet or not, heck, getting it out of the driveway to load up hurts. If I were to do it again, I'd ditch the slider rails and set the seat just a touch further back, perhaps good for another inch or two of clearance, the mounting surface is on a slight decline from the front to the hump where the backseats sit.

I've been reading and stalking a bunch of your builds, videos, and everything else here over the years, hoping to not repeat your mistakes and learn from your painful experiences, and I guess at her expense, now I get to pass that torch on and hope somebody sees or reads this cautionary tale so that somebody puts aside a few more bucks so they don't go through it themselves. I've heard a few of you say TT really isn't racing over the years, which, yeah, I guess, but at the same time we're usually putting down faster times than the race groups, and well, whether that is or isn't your case, trust me, our accidents are just as real as your W2W's, and they will hurt just as much. I don't even want to think what would have happened if I went into that with some skinny and simple bolt-in 4 point harness or rollover bar, because I'm pretty sure that I know what the answer is, and I'm pretty sure you all do too.

Thanks for listening, my back is hurting from all this soap box standing :D
 
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ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,626
2,555
Arizona, USA
What's the problem with Baer :?

Their two-piece rotors aren't properly designed to allow for thermal expansion (straight-through holes instead of elongated holes or slots for the fasteners/bobbins) and members here have had multiple seal failures on them during road racing. They are fine for light use or SEMA stuff but if you want to run a real race at a real pace for 30 mins or longer, you're going to need something else.
 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
588
689
Exp. Type
Autocross
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20+ Years
Connecticut
The discussion of increased wear on the bleeder/caliper due to frequent brake bleeding reminded me of something in Carroll Smith's book on fasteners & plumbing, so I looked it up.

"Racers and airplane people utilize alot of threaded holes in castings -- particularly nonferrous castings. Murphy has a field day with threads in either aluminum or magnesium. Consequently, a properly threaded hole in either material requires some sort of threaded insert. This is particularly true if whatever is threaded into the hole will be removed from time to time. Otherwise, the threads are guaranteed to strip and, of course, to do so at the most inopportune time imaginable."

Smith says he uses Helicoils because they're universally available. He like Rosans the best, but can't get them, and his next favorite would be Keenserts.

I'm not saying that everyone should immediately install Helicoils in their caliper bleeder threads, but it gives you something to think about. The factory engineering for a street car is likely based on a particular interval between brake fluid flushes, or number of times the bleeders will be loosened & tightened during the life of the car. As we change that interval, sometimes drastically, the assumptions the Ford (or Brembo) engineers made may no longer apply.

Anyway, sorry to hear about the incident, glad to hear you're not more seriously injured and that you are on the mend. As others have said, listen to the doctors and take the time to heal. Also glad to see that this quickly led to an open discussion of safety on the thread, which hopefully helps everyone.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,862
4,126
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
620
888
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
San Diego
I am looking at these for the 350.


$225.00 ish for 6 bleeders with caps.

Can someone confirm the 350 takes 10x1.0x16 bleeders please.
Super interested, thanks for sharing that. Their US location/importer is here in San Diego, I'll definitely give them a shout when I'm readying back up, probably grab a bunch for all of yous toos.
 

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