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Good points, there are a few sketchy places, but yeah, totally valid points. Leaving the LA County we have to climb a mountain which is a blast.Make sure your tongue weight is correct towing with that thing. I've towed my car with a Tahoe a couple times and it can get kinda sketchy because the wheelbase is so short.
So the PP Brembos are 36mm pistons, and Brembo is awesome and super generic, so it's really just the dust boot going around whatever diameter piston, and the piston seal that's inside of it. Racing Brake is in Fullerton, and have a showroom, but for me to try to sneak out of work and drive 3 roundtrip hours and gas, it's just cheaper for me to ship it. For them, it'll be one of these whether you're looking for the dust boots and piston seals, or those and a set of stainless pistons. https://racingbrake.com/search-results-page?q=bf-63Paddy,
sounds like you rebuilt the stock PP1 brembos? Where can you get the seals locally in socal? Any part numbers on the package of seals?
I'll be doing the 9/10 with Speed Ventures, and doing some instruction to keep the costs down. After all the stuff I've been up to lately, it'll be a re-shakedown run as this car has only had like 5-6 track days on it. The hopes are to get it in NASA ST2/TT2 for the upcoming year, but with all the things I keep doing to it, I haven't had the same car in back to back weekends ever, and so with that limited seat time in it, perhaps I'm rushing it a little bit. I'd have to read the SCCA rules too, as I know there's some classing differences, and I don't know what class this'd best run in... perhaps AS?I'm also running ACS mid January. Are you racing SCCA or a different group?
I'll be doing the 9/10 with Speed Ventures, and doing some instruction to keep the costs down. After all the stuff I've been up to lately, it'll be a re-shakedown run as this car has only had like 5-6 track days on it. The hopes are to get it in NASA ST2/TT2 for the upcoming year, but with all the things I keep doing to it, I haven't had the same car in back to back weekends ever, and so with that limited seat time in it, perhaps I'm rushing it a little bit. I'd have to read the SCCA rules too, as I know there's some classing differences, and I don't know what class this'd best run in... perhaps AS?
When are you running? I'd be curious and swing on by and really looking for the size of the competition. 2020 was quite a strange year, and for plenty of reasons, many people didn't show up. I'd hate to go to all the work and expense to show up and just run with 2 cars, compared to heading to the track and running time trials with my friends, y'know?
SCCA fields are pretty thin up here in Norcal as well.Thanks for the work on the brake seal information!
I hear you 100%. SCCA has too many classes and so the class participation is low. I like you have had 5 races on my 2019 GT converted to racecar for SCCA and have never raced the same car. It is developing nicely getting faster. An ST2 car will probably be in SCCA T1 or GT2. I was in 2012 T1 when class consolidation forced a bunch of my codriving Vette racers to ST2. That's why I know a bit about ST2. I stuck with SCCA and ballasted up and restricted down to T2. ST2 is a power to weight class and should have lots of cars but I hear that class in Socal is falling off? True or false? The best racing of the year is runoffs when the national race will bring out 20 car fields in most classes. That is a fun time. Every place else I race i the country and 5 cars is about the most you get with an occsaional 7 or 8 in class. That is just the state of clubracing today. Some classes are much better but I'm not a fan of the cars. I'm just not into a spec racer ford. I wish the NASA NP-01 thing would have taken off but I do not think it has.
SCCA fields are pretty thin up here in Norcal as well.
Hopefully when all this Covid nonsense Is over folks will want to get out and race.
ITEwhat class are youracing in scca? I race laguna with sf region scca when I can. Brp is too hot in summer while laguna is tolerabl.
Merry Christmas, Happy New Year.
I don't know if they have have TI backing plates for those Brembos. A lot of people have had success with longer dust boot and seal life running them. Im trying to find sum for my current brake set up. Love this build. And yes it was one long HOT summer on the Left coast this year!
So yeah, I'm not one to question all the minds that be, but I'm the type to question things and look for some empirical evidence, and well, if it's not there, and not cost prohibitive, perhaps doing so myself. When looking for Titanium Shims and Mustang brakes, there wasn't much information coming up, and something like a hard braking website that looked somewhat defunct. Not saying that engineers/mechanics need to know wordpress, jquery, npm, and all that, but the fact that it's pretty barren on something supposedly so important is awkward. I'm guessing this to be a buffer between the brake piston making contact with a ridiculously hot brake pad and even hotter brake surface and rotor, but wondering what type of difference that a 1/32" would have... compared to proper airflow, whether it be ducting, or even the scoop/swoop method (something the fine gentlepersons at Vorshlag have previously tested). I guess it's partially them wanting to keep the costs down as they're just selling you brake pads, similar to banks doing away with the free checkbooks and cookies with opening every checking account, as they turned that expense into a potential income stream as they're making commission money off that affiliate marketing link. I've found a place locally that sells some sheets, and it's decently cheap, especially when compared to the $125-150 I've seen on the various places, but yeah, the 2015+ 6 Piston PP Brembos look to be the odd man out from what I've seen so far, with most going with the Brembo 4-piston as seen on the Boss, or the 6 Piston GT-350's which is a different design. I definitely need to get the front aero situation sorted though, part of it is a pain from all the towing and whatnot, having to disassemble it which is just a friggin' pain... more on that later, I suppose.I don't know if they have have TI backing plates for those Brembos. A lot of people have had success with longer dust boot and seal life running them. Im trying to find sum for my current brake set up. Love this build. And yes it was one long HOT summer on the Left coast this year!
the 2015+ 6 Piston PP Brembos look to be the odd man out from what I've seen so far, with most going with the Brembo 4-piston as seen on the Boss, or the 6 Piston GT-350's which is a different design
Curious to see how that works out, and as to what I'd guess to be about 70% coverage of the surface. Titanium is decently strong, but I'd wonder to what thickness they become somewhat too skinny or flimsy. Carbon dating myself, but in an earlier life, I was big into the heat transfer with various compositions of aluminum, copper, and tin, but a slightly different application where it was primarily about the heat transfer and drawing it off a surface that was several hundreds of degrees celsius. One of the bigger challenges was the transfer between the types, and wondering if it'd almost be beneficial to it poorly, on purpose, so such that one acts as an insulator, and one as an isolator.OP Mustang uses the same Ti plate for the GT350 and GTPP pad. The dimensions where the pins pass through the pads are the same, however they have different arcs on the side that faces the rotor hub. They have pictures of the backing plate on the different pads on the link below. I have a new set of G-Loc’s in route this week - I’ll take some pics of my dust seals when I swap them out. Just finishing the first set of pads with the brand new PP Brembos and Ti shims.
https://www.opmustang.com/store/p15...GT350_Titanium_Brake_Pad_Shims_-_Front.html#/
Looking at the NASA ST rules, there are some limitations in 6.2.1 as to where I can place it. It would have been nice to just put a few holes on the fender and/or some self-tapping screws to put it right around the same area. Technically 1g says I can relocate some things on the firewall, but I don't think it'd be necessary; Zipties through the Clutch reservoir legs to create a ring around the brake reservoir, just like Boardkat did. Should I have any other concern, I could place another one vertically and under the new Clutch, looping it through that exposed tab of the brake to keep it from slipping, should there be any concern.How to you plan to mount the clutch reservoir? I bought the same reservoir and plan to order an auto PP Master Cylinder. Just trying to get an idea on how to mount it because there isn't much room.
Any guesses? From this stock road racing Coyote, I'm hoping for at least 470 RWHP, reliably.