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PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
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Make sure your tongue weight is correct towing with that thing. I've towed my car with a Tahoe a couple times and it can get kinda sketchy because the wheelbase is so short.
Good points, there are a few sketchy places, but yeah, totally valid points. Leaving the LA County we have to climb a mountain which is a blast.

Paddy,

sounds like you rebuilt the stock PP1 brembos? Where can you get the seals locally in socal? Any part numbers on the package of seals?
So the PP Brembos are 36mm pistons, and Brembo is awesome and super generic, so it's really just the dust boot going around whatever diameter piston, and the piston seal that's inside of it. Racing Brake is in Fullerton, and have a showroom, but for me to try to sneak out of work and drive 3 roundtrip hours and gas, it's just cheaper for me to ship it. For them, it'll be one of these whether you're looking for the dust boots and piston seals, or those and a set of stainless pistons. https://racingbrake.com/search-results-page?q=bf-63

Centric 143.37023 is the boots and seals, one kit for one caliper, two kits for your whole front.
Stoptech 143.99036 is the Centric high-perf line, and they're sold in piston pairs, so 3 kits for a caliper, 6 kits for the whole front.
Those are something you can probably get from somebody like Summit, and with their warehouse in Sparks, NV, it should be an overnight or day at worst.

From the local Ford Parts catalog, I can't seem to find it. The FR3Z-2207-A looks to be part of the GT350 Brembo package, and those shouldn't work, as they're 34, 36, 38mm's.
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I'm also running ACS mid January. Are you racing SCCA or a different group?
I'll be doing the 9/10 with Speed Ventures, and doing some instruction to keep the costs down. After all the stuff I've been up to lately, it'll be a re-shakedown run as this car has only had like 5-6 track days on it. The hopes are to get it in NASA ST2/TT2 for the upcoming year, but with all the things I keep doing to it, I haven't had the same car in back to back weekends ever, and so with that limited seat time in it, perhaps I'm rushing it a little bit. I'd have to read the SCCA rules too, as I know there's some classing differences, and I don't know what class this'd best run in... perhaps AS?
When are you running? I'd be curious and swing on by and really looking for the size of the competition. 2020 was quite a strange year, and for plenty of reasons, many people didn't show up. I'd hate to go to all the work and expense to show up and just run with 2 cars, compared to heading to the track and running time trials with my friends, y'know?
 
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I'll be doing the 9/10 with Speed Ventures, and doing some instruction to keep the costs down. After all the stuff I've been up to lately, it'll be a re-shakedown run as this car has only had like 5-6 track days on it. The hopes are to get it in NASA ST2/TT2 for the upcoming year, but with all the things I keep doing to it, I haven't had the same car in back to back weekends ever, and so with that limited seat time in it, perhaps I'm rushing it a little bit. I'd have to read the SCCA rules too, as I know there's some classing differences, and I don't know what class this'd best run in... perhaps AS?
When are you running? I'd be curious and swing on by and really looking for the size of the competition. 2020 was quite a strange year, and for plenty of reasons, many people didn't show up. I'd hate to go to all the work and expense to show up and just run with 2 cars, compared to heading to the track and running time trials with my friends, y'know?

Thanks for the work on the brake seal information!

I hear you 100%. SCCA has too many classes and so the class participation is low. I like you have had 5 races on my 2019 GT converted to racecar for SCCA and have never raced the same car. It is developing nicely getting faster. An ST2 car will probably be in SCCA T1 or GT2. I was in 2012 T1 when class consolidation forced a bunch of my codriving Vette racers to ST2. That's why I know a bit about ST2. I stuck with SCCA and ballasted up and restricted down to T2. ST2 is a power to weight class and should have lots of cars but I hear that class in Socal is falling off? True or false? The best racing of the year is runoffs when the national race will bring out 20 car fields in most classes. That is a fun time. Every place else I race i the country and 5 cars is about the most you get with an occsaional 7 or 8 in class. That is just the state of clubracing today. Some classes are much better but I'm not a fan of the cars. I'm just not into a spec racer ford. I wish the NASA NP-01 thing would have taken off but I do not think it has.
 

Fabman

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Thanks for the work on the brake seal information!

I hear you 100%. SCCA has too many classes and so the class participation is low. I like you have had 5 races on my 2019 GT converted to racecar for SCCA and have never raced the same car. It is developing nicely getting faster. An ST2 car will probably be in SCCA T1 or GT2. I was in 2012 T1 when class consolidation forced a bunch of my codriving Vette racers to ST2. That's why I know a bit about ST2. I stuck with SCCA and ballasted up and restricted down to T2. ST2 is a power to weight class and should have lots of cars but I hear that class in Socal is falling off? True or false? The best racing of the year is runoffs when the national race will bring out 20 car fields in most classes. That is a fun time. Every place else I race i the country and 5 cars is about the most you get with an occsaional 7 or 8 in class. That is just the state of clubracing today. Some classes are much better but I'm not a fan of the cars. I'm just not into a spec racer ford. I wish the NASA NP-01 thing would have taken off but I do not think it has.
SCCA fields are pretty thin up here in Norcal as well.
Hopefully when all this Covid nonsense Is over folks will want to get out and race.
 
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SCCA fields are pretty thin up here in Norcal as well.
Hopefully when all this Covid nonsense Is over folks will want to get out and race.

what class are youracing in scca? I race laguna with sf region scca when I can. Brp is too hot in summer while laguna is tolerabl.
 

Fabman

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what class are youracing in scca? I race laguna with sf region scca when I can. Brp is too hot in summer while laguna is tolerabl.
ITE
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
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Merry Christmas, Happy New Year.

Had some obligations keeping me away from things as long as I had wanted to, bills and presents out the ying-yang, but vivre dans le besoin, c'est la vie de pilote de voiture de course...

So these things were truly trashed. Some of them were destroyed by my pulling them off in the first place, but not all of them suffered that fate and I got a lot better as I went along. I had been fighting front brake temp issues for the longest time, and having a base GT, you've got a flat bottom from the front as they're assuming that those track minded individuals get the performance pack or GT350.

PXL_20210102_005810608.jpg

Look much nicer with the Racing Brake dust boots on it, hopefully perform that much stronger too.

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Part of the issue was also driver/mechanic error as I was tracking it during the hottest of days, with a few of its shakedown events at 110 plus, and also no thought or concern about front aero and cooling. The base GT front tray has no cutouts, so it's just trapping that air, and the base front control arms don't have the scoop/swoop plate like the performance pack ones do. I've got another set of G-LOC R18's in, and ACS should be 30-40 degrees cooler than it was before, so should do just fine.

The e85 has been sitting since the last event, so donated those old ones to the flex rig, and grabbed another 20 gal, which fit perfectly fine on the floor of the back seat, it's as if this vehicle was made to haul things that are full of alcohol.

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Also went out front and unwrapped one of my belated Christmas presents, a few sets of slicks which should be going on soon enough.

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I've got more things up the sleeve, but in my wisdom, or lack of it, thinking it might be worth just leaving the car alone for an event or two just so I can gain some consistency there. So many things planned, so little time. Also thinking hard about switching the Trac-loc out for a T2R, watching some of my old vids and how often I have to lift to fight off the understeer that I'd be able to just stay in and gain had I had a Torsen. Who knows, should be a fun year though. Everybody talking about how much 2020 sucked, and I found some bright spots in it, here's hoping for more in 2021.
 
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Merry Christmas, Happy New Year.

I don't know if they have have TI backing plates for those Brembos. A lot of people have had success with longer dust boot and seal life running them. Im trying to find sum for my current brake set up. Love this build. And yes it was one long HOT summer on the Left coast this year!
 
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PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
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I don't know if they have have TI backing plates for those Brembos. A lot of people have had success with longer dust boot and seal life running them. Im trying to find sum for my current brake set up. Love this build. And yes it was one long HOT summer on the Left coast this year!
So yeah, I'm not one to question all the minds that be, but I'm the type to question things and look for some empirical evidence, and well, if it's not there, and not cost prohibitive, perhaps doing so myself. When looking for Titanium Shims and Mustang brakes, there wasn't much information coming up, and something like a hard braking website that looked somewhat defunct. Not saying that engineers/mechanics need to know wordpress, jquery, npm, and all that, but the fact that it's pretty barren on something supposedly so important is awkward. I'm guessing this to be a buffer between the brake piston making contact with a ridiculously hot brake pad and even hotter brake surface and rotor, but wondering what type of difference that a 1/32" would have... compared to proper airflow, whether it be ducting, or even the scoop/swoop method (something the fine gentlepersons at Vorshlag have previously tested). I guess it's partially them wanting to keep the costs down as they're just selling you brake pads, similar to banks doing away with the free checkbooks and cookies with opening every checking account, as they turned that expense into a potential income stream as they're making commission money off that affiliate marketing link. I've found a place locally that sells some sheets, and it's decently cheap, especially when compared to the $125-150 I've seen on the various places, but yeah, the 2015+ 6 Piston PP Brembos look to be the odd man out from what I've seen so far, with most going with the Brembo 4-piston as seen on the Boss, or the 6 Piston GT-350's which is a different design. I definitely need to get the front aero situation sorted though, part of it is a pain from all the towing and whatnot, having to disassemble it which is just a friggin' pain... more on that later, I suppose.
 
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the 2015+ 6 Piston PP Brembos look to be the odd man out from what I've seen so far, with most going with the Brembo 4-piston as seen on the Boss, or the 6 Piston GT-350's which is a different design

OP Mustang uses the same Ti plate for the GT350 and GTPP pad. The dimensions where the pins pass through the pads are the same, however they have different arcs on the side that faces the rotor hub. They have pictures of the backing plate on the different pads on the link below. I have a new set of G-Loc’s in route this week - I’ll take some pics of my dust seals when I swap them out. Just finishing the first set of pads with the brand new PP Brembos and Ti shims.

https://www.opmustang.com/store/p15...GT350_Titanium_Brake_Pad_Shims_-_Front.html#/
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
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OP Mustang uses the same Ti plate for the GT350 and GTPP pad. The dimensions where the pins pass through the pads are the same, however they have different arcs on the side that faces the rotor hub. They have pictures of the backing plate on the different pads on the link below. I have a new set of G-Loc’s in route this week - I’ll take some pics of my dust seals when I swap them out. Just finishing the first set of pads with the brand new PP Brembos and Ti shims.

https://www.opmustang.com/store/p15...GT350_Titanium_Brake_Pad_Shims_-_Front.html#/
Curious to see how that works out, and as to what I'd guess to be about 70% coverage of the surface. Titanium is decently strong, but I'd wonder to what thickness they become somewhat too skinny or flimsy. Carbon dating myself, but in an earlier life, I was big into the heat transfer with various compositions of aluminum, copper, and tin, but a slightly different application where it was primarily about the heat transfer and drawing it off a surface that was several hundreds of degrees celsius. One of the bigger challenges was the transfer between the types, and wondering if it'd almost be beneficial to it poorly, on purpose, so such that one acts as an insulator, and one as an isolator.

I guess it could also be solved with simply carrying more speed and breaking a lot less. I wonder if removing the dash, heavy steering column, heater core, front/rear glass, and an anti-gravity battery would be good for 150#. I could also try to find a way to lose another 25 myself.
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JDee

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Optic Armour front/back glass saves 27 lbs cost $1050. Not bad.

There's also some guys in Britain that make lexan window kits for the S550 stang.


Thinking about going this route myself. But I'd like to see someone else take the bullet first. LOL!
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
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I don't know if I'm willing to ship a windshield halfway around the world from Britain to here, but I'll see if I can't find somebody in Tijuana who can do it for half :D

Weekend came and went waaaaaay too quickly, along with my cell phone. I don't take as many pics of my car as I used to, and I live a pretty boring life, but I'm kinda pissed about losing all that data I had in Track Addict, since I would have done that later tonight, trying to piece together where I can improve and whatnot. Saturday was a real difficult day at Auto Club with real heavy sustained winds of about 30mph and gusting to 50, enough to give you a solid shove if you're standing around, and if you're going into the heavy banking 1+2 areas, it would have pushed you up to the wall, then turn into a headwind in 2, and just kill times for those depending on the aero, in addition to cooling the track. I forgot that the banking really hurts my fuel setup with e85, and lost a lot of time with misfiring down the straight and having to coast, as once you're on it, it's a good 30ish seconds before you're level again, and if you need to pit, it's another 45 or so. That, and I had plenty of air from apparently not spending enough hours pumping the clutch the other weekend. Clutch to the floor is not something you want at some of the speeds this is capable of, and jamming the brakes to find the pedal absolutely rock solid just about sent me to brown town. Thankfully this is also Tom's race track, and a vacuuming session fixed that up just right.

Sunday turned out to be a better day, and the first time in a long time that @67GTA and I got to be in the same group, so we got to do a little playing around. Some combination of his driving and aero has him killing people through those high banked turns of 1 and 2. Thinking I'm billybadass over here, laying it down over the straight, and he's right in your mirrors. While he deserves most of the credit for his PB, he was tailgating me for like half of it, sooo... yeah, you're welcome. Buddy came up to watch us, but security meaning no spectators meant, nobody gets to go into the stands and watch on the straights, which was a bummer. Despite all the silly stuff going on in the world right now, it was a nice time, hopefully we get to keep having them. As for me, I put the finishing touches on the Toyo RR, and well, true to their word, they were consistent, even to the end. I got 6 full track days out of them, so, 24 heat cycles, and so they're a perfect HPDE tire. But yeah, if I'm doing Time Trials or any sort of W2W race, unless required like for American Iron, I'd look elsewhere if your fastest times matter. My first weekend at ACS with them I started at 1:54, and started working the pressures down to their sweet spot, and finished with 1:50.9, 1:50.8, 1:50.9, 1:50.6 to end the day, even as the grip was going on. I was told some McLaren and Porsche guys came by to check Tom and I out, so that kudos won the weekend out.

Plus we didn't do any spins or blow oil all over the track unlike Camp Chevy.

Do have to figure out how to get some modulation back into the brakes. Brake Booster and Master Cylinder could be suspects, as well as my amateur power bleeding skills. I tried to divorce the clutch and brake systems earlier, but the GM GTO reservoir part I ordered was cancelled, so perhaps I'll take that up again. Getting there though, will have the slicks mounted up for this weekend's Super GT Cup, where I'll be running in SuperMod. Another one of the guys was at ACS this weekend and ran a 1:49.4 in R7's, so assuming our cars and skill are equal, going from Toyo to Pirelli should at least bridge that 1-1.5 sec gap.
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
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Crazy how quickly this past week came and went. (Re) Ordered the GM T-56 Clutch Reservoir to divorce the lines, and will get the Brake Booster and Master Cylinder coming along. After fixing up the front brakes, well gee, didn't bother to think too much farther ahead and then found out that my rear pads were also at the end of their useful life, so in going to toss those on, found out that just like the front, the seals were blown.

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Kinda duh, but yeah, and found out that for some strange reason, Ford doesn't sell the boots individually, so you're looking at about $100 for each after the $50 core fee. It's only a few of bucks for the single caliper dust boot, but my local auto part stores wouldn't have had them in time for the weekend. Had some R16's lying around and tossed them in, and have now almost entirely swapped out that awkward yellow brake caliper paint job from the previous dingus.

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Still on the fence about switching them out for something better capable and rebuildable, perhaps something like the Shelby set, but I don't believe the benefit from its performance would outweigh the increased pads and rotor costs. I could be wrong. Since I've finished off the RR's, swapped a set of of slick scrubs for the Super GT Cup event at Willow Springs, loaded up, picked up an interested coworker, and got there Saturday Night to meet some peeps which was nice. What wasn't nice was that my rear driver side caliper was leaking, as evidenced by the pool of fluid sitting inside of the rim. I had thought ahead enough this time to order some additional washers, tossed them on, and after a few quick stop n' go's, the double stack would at least hold pressure. As it was cold out that night, there was no chance of getting them up to operating temp in the cold parking lot, so was going to hope that would hold for at least the night. Had a 500mil bottle of RBF 660, as did Alessandro, and lucked out that I caught it early on and didn't actually lose too much fluid. Next morning came around, and flushed the brakes which felt alright, but with the booster and master cylinder still semi suspect, I didn't really want to push them all that hard. Kinda forgot where I was starting the slicks off at, and with it being something like 40-45 or so out, the track was pretty cold, as were the slicks, which were hard and not warming up, fighting them wanting to slide out the whole time. Tires only came up like 8-10# where I would have expected them to be more like 12-15#. I think I was sitting in 3rd when heading out for the second session where I went a little better, still feeling that stiffness and hardness from them, no different than my Transformers Big Wheels.

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No, that's not me on the box.

My rust there certainly showed, and Time Trial/Attack is a different feeling than HPDE as so many are coming out, doing a few hot laps and leaving, whereas I was going the whole session, because I mean the scrubs were barely showing dots at that point, this would be their last day whether they liked it or not, might as well enjoy it. 3rd session was right around noon and the sun started to warm everything up, probably 75-80 out at that time, but I matched my best time of the day on that 3rd run, so good news is that I was consistent. Bad news is that I was consistently about 6 seconds behind Kevin's the fastest overall's friggin 1:26... I mean, really? 4th session started to show the tires further dropping off, and I was drifting, sliding, and correcting for pretty much the whole lap, but was still semi-consistent, multiple back-to-back less than 100ms of each other.

I got what I deserved, not what I wanted. That said, sure, I set a PB, and landed middle of the Supermod pack, but I still think there's plenty left in this car and driver too. I wasn't anywhere close to the edge of the tracks approaching turn-in, as there's generally a good drop off from the lip of the track should I overshoot it with the brakes still semi-suspect, doing the Gurney tap pretty much everywhere. From that, I had then a tendency to early apex, which cost me a bunch in the 3-4a-4b-5-6 rhythm section. By the time I was happy with the tires, I also dialed down the rebound to address the violent hopping in turn 8, but they were too far gone to really pull much more out, and ended the day with a spin going uphill. No undertray, front lip, and rear defuser which are sitting in the spare room could have helped some, and of course, lowering the ride height a touch too. Those aren't excuses so much as they are positive things coming that should get this closer to its true potential. The biggest takeaway, and one that I am proud of, is that it was driven pretty hard for 2 days at ACS, and the next weekend at Big Willow, and nothing broke, everything else seemed to run just fine. With exception to the last, I went out on the parade lap and made it to the checkered, something that it wasn't doing say, 10 events ago.

Sure, I would have loved to come home with some hardware, but that'd reflect poorly on the competition. Speaking of which, I got to meet and spend the day with a bunch of you after months of social nerding, and sadly, the day was over before I knew it. Props to Ale, Kevin, Omar, and everybody else behind the scenes who've been putting in the work on the Super GT Cup, something like 40 showed up, with Team TMO going strong. Not much of a chance with Kevin in SuperMod, but hey, taking 3 of 4 ain't bad at all.

Silver lining is that I won the loudest car plaque, which they forgot to bring with them to the track. They said they'll have it up at Laguna Seca, but that's a pretty long tow for me, and I'd prefer Californians spend more time looking at the road, instead of my dumb ass.

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PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
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For my own reference, and others:

Divorcing the Brake and Clutch reservoirs:
GM T-56 Reservoir - GM 92065790 ~ $30
Mustang PP2 Manual Cylinder + Reservoir - FR3Z-2140-A ~ $100
Mustang PP Brake Booster - JR3Z-2005-Z ~ $180

I would have preferred the FR3Z-2140-B which is the Master Cylinder for the PP1 Auto Mustang that has 2 nipples instead of 3, but they don't make automatic PP Mustangs, that, and in snooping, it's also on D99 national back order, perhaps X11 (7-10 business days) by the time I get my hands on it. I'm sure the more experienced builders out there are used to setbacks, as I am, but man, seems every. single. part. I've needed was backordered with no restock estimate... perhaps it's because new cars shouldn't break, perhaps it's covid or a sign of the times, but hopefully 2021 is a better year and somewhat a return to normalcy. I know that there's a back and forth narrative with the Master Cylinder, with everybody but the PP sharing the same FR3Z-2140-C, but I'll give this a go since I've had nothing but braking problems in this car since I've had it. The 2019 Base GT was so much nicer once I upgraded to the 6 Piston Brembos, allowing me to actually brake modulate, something that I haven't yet had in this one.

@flyhalf Thanks for the offer, just waiting on getting some of these other issues off and out, as I see these somewhat the final pieces to it. The rear diffuser digs into where the MBRP boom-tube extension would be, so then I have to figure out whether to change out the axleback, or use that time to cut into the body and do a side exit. Still up in the air, have to look into the NASA rules and see if I can comply, and perhaps have a chance at making sound, without leaving too much power behind.

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ed - Haha, found out that apparently I have my car/class record at Big Willow -- https://www.ongridtrack.com/sgtc-track-records :D

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How to you plan to mount the clutch reservoir? I bought the same reservoir and plan to order an auto PP Master Cylinder. Just trying to get an idea on how to mount it because there isn't much room.
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
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How to you plan to mount the clutch reservoir? I bought the same reservoir and plan to order an auto PP Master Cylinder. Just trying to get an idea on how to mount it because there isn't much room.
Looking at the NASA ST rules, there are some limitations in 6.2.1 as to where I can place it. It would have been nice to just put a few holes on the fender and/or some self-tapping screws to put it right around the same area. Technically 1g says I can relocate some things on the firewall, but I don't think it'd be necessary; Zipties through the Clutch reservoir legs to create a ring around the brake reservoir, just like Boardkat did. Should I have any other concern, I could place another one vertically and under the new Clutch, looping it through that exposed tab of the brake to keep it from slipping, should there be any concern.

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PaddyPrix

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So this upcoming Saturday I'll be celebrating my 1 year anniversary with the Stripper, and well, figure what better place to do it than Willow Springs, and in NASA TT2. I'm super psyched, and even if I come in dead f'n last, I'm still going to call it a win. I had no idea what I was getting into when I bought this car (mostly) sight unseen, and to this day, still have no idea what I'm doing, or where it's going... but looking back over the past year has been a blast. I've met a bunch of great people along the way, who are equally, if not more passionate about racing their Mustangs, and helping me spend money that I didn't really have to begin with.

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No, I didn't take the wheels off for the following shot.


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I mean, looks kinda the same, which is nice, y'know, having most of the pieces still connected, mostly straight. Doing this stuff shows my age, as I haven't done CAD since High School... except then I was using AutoCAD on a 68000, not the Cardboard Aided Design you see here.

I'll have some splitter rods coming in tomorrow, and should have everything measured up, coming in much, much lighter than those of you and your wood splitters. Time is a premium of late, so don't think I'll be able to get to the rear diffuser in time, and while I love how exceptionally loud my car is, perhaps it's time to put some thought into a side exhaust. As much as I'd like to say Tom should be happy to hear that, I'm not sure he's recovered from last August when he helped push start.

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It'll be my first time with hopefully some front aero, so I'll be all over the place, both on the track and trying to dial in the adjustables, which I've started to wonder if they're up a little too high, hopping was a common theme through Big Willow's turn 8, and Auto Club's 10/11. It'll also be my first time on a set of Yokohama Advan A052's which looked like big winners at the last Super GT Cup, and since they're over 100tw, they get a nice lil' bonus mod with NASA. If I'm reading the compliance form, at 3601, and no other points, the +0.4 from weight and +0.6 from the tires means I could have an average of over 510rwhp, although I'd much rather shed some more weight, with things like batteries, glass, dash, evaporator core, and I think another 100# or so is left. No idea how much power I currently have with the e85, longtubes, and straight pipe combo, so since we're going all official-like, will also get a dyno in on Friday morning.

Any guesses? From this stock road racing Coyote, I'm hoping for at least 470 RWHP, reliably.
Yeah yeah yeah, I was going to hell long before this internet post was written.
 
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