The best all around lower control arms for the Boss

[JScheier]

Sorry - that's what I get for answering this post from my phone.

I have the FRPP rear lower control arms with the spherical bearings:

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M5649S/2005-12-Mustang-Rear-Lower-Control-Arms-M-5649-S

These things clunk like mad.

The bearing is tight in the arm
The bushings are tight in the bearing (bushings space the arms off of the mounts)

The only thing I can figure is that the bolt that goes through the bushing (steel) and bearing is a smaller OD than the ID of the bearing/bushing combination. I've torqued them to 130 lbft... not going to torque them further.

 

[06mach1]

The noise or clunk you might be hearing is probably the differential and torsen. This is the noise I hear from my Boss and I have only changed the UCA.

Sorry - that's what I get for answering this post from my phone.

I have the FRPP rear lower control arms with the spherical bearings:

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M5649S/2005-12-Mustang-Rear-Lower-Control-Arms-M-5649-S

These things clunk like mad.

The bearing is tight in the arm
The bushings are tight in the bearing (bushings space the arms off of the mounts)

The only thing I can figure is that the bolt that goes through the bushing (steel) and bearing is a smaller OD than the ID of the bearing/bushing combination. I've torqued them to 130 lbft... not going to torque them further.

 

[JScheier]

The noise or clunk you might be hearing is probably the differential and torsen. This is the noise I hear from my Boss and I have only changed the UCA.

If only that were the case. You can reproduce the noise with the car at a stand-still, on jack-stands, just about whenever you want. Seems to be normal per the impromptu poll I took of 302S owners (same LCAs).

 

[jeepinocala]

Also went with umi rear control arm lowering bracketse bolt in and will help plant this thing.

just dont run a sticky tire with them

Note: Bolt-in brackets are for street use and light drag racing use only (with street tires). We recommend welding these brackets when engine modifications are done (heads/cam, NOS, turbo, supercharger) or when traction or launch is enhanced (drag radial, slicks, trans brake, etc). Please contact us if you are unsure if welding is required.

Why would I not run a slick with this setup? have you ever seen one break?

 

[gremlinsteve]

The noise or clunk you might be hearing is probably the differential and torsen. This is the noise I hear from my Boss and I have only changed the UCA.

If only that were the case. You can reproduce the noise with the car at a stand-still, on jack-stands, just about whenever you want. Seems to be normal per the impromptu poll I took of 302S owners (same LCAs).

that just doesnt seem right that it is doing that. if you can move it at just about any time you want then the pinion able is dancing all over the place ect. i think i would change out to a differant arm or modify the bracket to allow yourself to run a bolt that will work / fit better

 

[JScheier]

that just doesn't seem right that it is doing that. if you can move it at just about any time you want then the pinion able is dancing all over the place etc. i think i would change out to a different arm or modify the bracket to allow yourself to run a bolt that will work / fit better

It doesn't move that much... just enough to clunk. I really think it's the OD of the bolt vs. the ID of the bearing / bushing inserts. I've questioned at least 4 people I know (and one vendor) running these arms and they all say they are noisy / clunky. I've got a busy couple of weeks of track time. Winter is around the corner, I'll pull the arms and the relo brackets and 'make it quiet'

 

[Justin]

Also went with umi rear control arm lowering bracketse bolt in and will help plant this thing.

just dont run a sticky tire with them

Note: Bolt-in brackets are for street use and light drag racing use only (with street tires). We recommend welding these brackets when engine modifications are done (heads/cam, NOS, turbo, supercharger) or when traction or launch is enhanced (drag radial, slicks, trans brake, etc). Please contact us if you are unsure if welding is required.

Why would I not run a slick with this setup? have you ever seen one break?

the note is right from the umi website. I would imagine it wouldnt hold up to the abuse. I would contact them if you are unsure if you need to weld them in. This is why I havent bought any as I will run slicks and dont want to worry about the rear end failing on the track. all of them say to weld in if you are going to run a slick or drag radial.

 

[jeepinocala]

Justin great catch no worries I am a certified tig welder in the medical tooling field ;D If it does need to be welded for a slick then it will be ;D

 

[SoFlaBoss]

The rear suspension upgrades to my Boss include FRPP Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets (Part# M-5650-A), Steeda swaybar relocation brackets to allow my Weld RT-S 15"x10" wheels with M/T 295/55-15 Drag Radials to fit, Steeda Adjustable Swaybar, Steeda Adjustable UCA, BBR Billet LCAs and J&M Adjustable Panhard Bar.

Even though my Boss does not have lowering springs, the angle of LCAs allowed the car to squat too much during hard launches at the drag strip, which the new FRPP Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets correct. As you can see in the photos below, my brackets are only bolted-on. IMO they are probably the strongest LCA relocation brackets available and I have no concerns about launching hard with them, as installed.

before photo - showing LCA is slightly higher on the axle end, which isn't good.



after the install photos

 

[jeepinocala]

Very nice setup those lowering brackets look the same as what I bought I figure they are a copy I have zero worries if the brackets look so so then I will just copy them in Stainless Steel in my shop ;D

 

[ace72ace]

Oh and I will hopefully be taking it to the drag strip this weekend to see if it was worth any 60' time.

Well? Did it lower your times?

 

[Justin]

Oh and I will hopefully be taking it to the drag strip this weekend to see if it was worth any 60' time.

Well? Did it lower your times?

weekend isnt here yet lol. I should be going on sat gates open at 10am test and tune starts at noon