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S197 3V The GT281R Build Thread

Welcome to TMO and that's a very clean setup. Do you have another Mustang or high performance car?
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
438
Southeast
Dinosoar:

Nice track car, and welcome to TMO. Is this a car you built? When you get a chance, tell us a bit more.

Thanks,
302 Hi Pro
 

Dinosoar

Dinosoar Motorsports
14
7
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Northern Virginia
Thanks! Sorry for the mis-posting...I'm usually pretty careful about the right forum. I haven't trolled TMO too much so...
Yes, I did all the work, though I farmed out the rear axle powder coating when I installed at TORSEN diff and 3.73 gears. I don't have a second car yet, but will likely be picking up a 2018 Mustang GT with the PP and A10. I think this track car is my last manual.

It's got a ton of changes, but nothing radical. I wanted to keep costs in check and reliability high. The brakes are the most aggressive, although the exhaust is pretty much open. My philosophy was the engine would be the "slowest" dimension of the car and that it can handle the heat and stress of track work all weekend. I'll get a custom tune and hope to get 350+HP at the crank; probably at 330 now. I hope I pulled about 300lbs out of the car, so that'll help too. I put 275s on all four corners and pulled as much weight out of the front, so it should have pretty good turn-in (including camber plates) and a lot less understeer (for a Mustang). I haven't had it on the track yet, and it only has 650 miles on it after 9 years. But, when I get her out, it'll be at Dominion Raceway, VIR and Summit Point. I'll do a lot of HPDE work, but hope to start running NASAs TT3 or TT4 depending on how my weight and dyno sheet comes out.
 
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Dinosoar

Dinosoar Motorsports
14
7
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Northern Virginia
This sounds very similar to what I want to do with mine!

I'd love to get the motor cracked open and taker her to 400HP with head, cam, and piston work, but that'll be some other time. For now, I'd like to continue to lighten her up with a front k-member/A-arm set up. For now, she's good to wring out on the track and get her dialed in.
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
1,171
1,391
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Upstate SC
I'd love to get the motor cracked open and taker her to 400HP with head, cam, and piston work, but that'll be some other time. For now, I'd like to continue to lighten her up with a front k-member/A-arm set up. For now, she's good to wring out on the track and get her dialed in.

I'd be curious to hear your thoughts about the lighter K-member setups. This is something I keep going back and forth on.
 

Dinosoar

Dinosoar Motorsports
14
7
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Northern Virginia
I'd be curious to hear your thoughts about the lighter K-member setups. This is something I keep going back and forth on.

I've gone back and forth too. I guess if I were richer (or them cheaper), I'd have it on my car. My big set up philosophy was/is lightweight AND moving the center of gravity lower and rearward. The better front suspension set ups have so much geometry too, along with great spring and damper options.

Aside from the cost is the idea that the front would be stellar, and the rear is a solid iron axle (would love for Currie or someone to build an all aluminum 8.8 axle housing!). Seems counter to the point almost. In the end, my opinion is not qualified as I've not run one. To me, to dial understeer out of a Mustang, getting it to rotate and adding power early is the point. I resolved some of that with a simple option, big tires up front. I also pulled or moved as much as I could off the front.

As far as who's product, I've not done enough trolling of the forums to get good indirect feedback from guys running them. I'm sure there are enough solid choices though. I have a Steeda radiator support to lighten that load way up front. It also mounts the roll bar, so I've kept my OE support in the event the Steeda bit cracks. The OE part is so robust, it seems too good to be true that Steeda's part is equally strong. The same is true of the K-member set up...that OE part is a monster piece in comparison to the custom set ups.

In short, money aside, my guess is they are worth it. Saving weight in the right place, adding adjust ability to a suspension that could use it. Do let me know if you go that route.
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
1,171
1,391
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Upstate SC
I will.

My only real concern is whether they're saving weight at the expense of strength. They're fine for drag racers but they don't see front end loads like road course guys.

All that said, I've only encountered anecdotal evidence on failures but at least one person (Fabman) on here actually uses it with no issues. Unless I start seeing more documented cases of failure, then I will probably get it too (minus the control arms).
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
1,171
1,391
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Upstate SC
Oh, Maximum Motorsports also makes road course-specific K-members and radiator supports. They claim the radiator support is lighter, not sure about the K-member, but I'm certain it's strong enough.
 

Dinosoar

Dinosoar Motorsports
14
7
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Northern Virginia
That is the primary concern, yes. I'll probably never do a K-member set up, unless I become desperate for more lightweighting...then I'll really have to dig into that question of road racing worthiness. My guess they're intended for road racing with all the geometry set up options, but I'm not a drag racer so don't know if that's so applicable there either. If I ever were to go this route, I'd likely get control arms for added adjustability and reduced weight...of course, provided they meet the strength requirements. My last bit of analysis if these set ups are like drilled rotors...fine for guys who rebuild regularly. That is not me, so maybe the OE parts are best.
 

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