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Glad to see another Scotia Stang on the TMO site and looking forward to your runs around Atlantic Motorsports Park.The mods are few now, but it appears you will be using your Credit Cards in the coming months before your race Season starts, ha!
Yesterday was the first day for the car in the garage. Tiny garage, but glad to have it. The car fits, which is good. But I can work on either one end or the other when the door is closed. Fluid changes were the order of the day. Had been getting minor gear clash in 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Refilled the trans with 3L of Valvoline Max Life, and that seems to be gone. Then it was oil/filter/coolant changes to reset the clock on whatever maintenance was or wasn't done by the previous owner.
While it was in the air, I let the front callipers gravity bleed to get a start on a brake fluid change out. I'm using the Motorcraft DOT 4 LV High-Performance Brake Fluid. Given the bleed cycles and price, it's what I've used in all my track cars to date, from the CRX to the Subaru and the tube frame Pro Challenge, and It's been reliable and never given me any fade when paired with good pads. When I pick up the S550 callipers next week I'll do a proper bleed with FORSCAN etc to completely flush whatever is in there.
And of course while it was in the air I had to see what the '21 Track Pack wheels were going to look like. Then it was back on the ground, a run through the car wash, and a test drive! My new therapist has a V8, and I think I'm falling for her!
So, the parts have started to get shipped. A full set of Koni Sports is on the way, FRPP P spring set, Whiteline bushing kit for the front control arms, Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates, and I think I added some trailing arm relocation brackets to the orders in time.
The parts have all arrived. I spent the last two days installing the Whiteline Anti Dive/ Caster kit. Seems it’s actually a Saleen design based on the instructions. Pro tip for anyone installing this - get the big bushing mounted to the sub frame first, then use a ratchet strap to pull the ball joint end of control arm forward - I attached to the tie down brackets to do this. Way easier than doing it in the reverse order.
I didn’t have a press for removing the old bushings, so I went full farmer mode on them, and cut away at them until it was just the sleeve remaining, then set up a puller. The amount of water that poured out of them when I first cut into them with the grinder was a surprise.
For the ball joint and small bushing, the air hammer and chisel did the heavy work.
Once the control arms were back on, I tackled the springs and the Maximum Motorsports Camber/Caster plates. If you don’t have a spring compressor, like me, you can do these on the car. I believe Steeda has a good video online showing the process. Install was a bit fussy as there are tapered spacers to install into the bearings on the plate, but with some patience and caution, they went in without much issue.
I installed these plates onto a set of Koni adjustable struts with the FRPP M-5300-PA springs. I bolted the plates up first, then the strut/spring onto the spindle arm with the spacers in place on the strut shaft. Then let the jack do the lifting and carefully align everything until it’s fully inserted through the mount bearing.
Given the springs lower the car about 1”, I elected to juggle the spacers and kept one short spacer for the top. This still allows room under the hood without interference but puts the strut closer to its original travel, according to the instructions anyways.
Rear trailing arm arm relocation brackets are on the menu for today. Looks simple enough, but time will tell.
Then I’ll spend some time with the strings and levels and toe plates to get the alignment set well enough to greet me through until next Monday when I get it on a rack to go over it Asha set the Caster with some accuracy.
Here's an update on the car. I finally got all the suspension installed and the car aligned. My string and iPhone job in the garage matched the machine output pretty well. I had a vibration that I could track down until I pulled the wheels and found the retainer washers on the studs. These were keeping the wheel from sitting flush so off they came.
I wasn't able to get the 3+ degrees of camber I was hoping for with the Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates, even after enlarging the strut mount holes, so looks like I'll investigate some strut to spindle mount options. The Ford P springs only give a 1' drop, so not as much camber gain as others that drop things further.
I did get the car to the track and ran 3 sessions. Took a crappy cell phone video of the last session for your amusement. I'm still on whatever crappy pads came on the car, and they are certainly not confidence inspiring. At the pace I was running the car felt really well planted, but a bit tight. The rear was super stuck with zero oversteer even if I tried to induce it, which will likely change as I get more comfortable in the car.
I did discover the dreaded fuel staving issue anytime I approached 1/2 tank in turn 2 - the sharp left hander that transitions off a sweeping right downhill into an abrupt uphill after the left. I'll be running the car full for future sessions.
I'm really happy with the Continental Extreme Contact Sports so far. No adverse wear and I think they are a solid choice for someone who isn't trying to get every last tenth out of their car, and instead takes a more leisurely approach to an HDPE day. More track time will tell if my initial impressions are right.