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The more I read on brakes, the less I know... Another brake upgrade thread...

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So after reading every thread already posted, in need of more opinion and clarification. I use the boss almost exclusively on track, and this winter I'm upgrading suspension/brakes/aero. I've been running the OE Brembos with hawk HP+ and blowfish brake cooling ducts, motul dot4. 11 events this season and I found the performance and wear very satisfactory. Squeaky on the street, but not annoying. I drive to track, and don't switch pads. Sticking with DOT approved rubber, but going with smaller diameter fatter stickier tires on lighter that OE wheels next season. Prob BFG, nitto or toyo on Enkeis or Racing Dynamics. Cortex or Griggs going in this winter too.

Questions:

Rotors: I'm leaning towards a lighter OE-sized two piece rotor to keep unsprung weight down with the larger rubber. Thinking girodisc or Baer eradispeed, but considering sticking with 1-piece to keep cost down over time, like DBA, centric, or just replacement brembo slotted. I used to subscribe to the bigger is better, but now I find the BBKs less and less appealing. Plus I don't think 15" rotors off the GT500 would fit under the 18s I'm considering... Thoughts?

Abs module: which is the correct race module for our car? There seems to be a few out there, and I'm hoping that one is a direct fit, not requiring an AIM or high expense adapter to make it work. Any expert advice? Who has made the change recently? I know ford discontinued the C module, now offers BA, CA, and a couple others that all look similar.

Pads: for a car driven sometimes 500mi to an event how aggressive can I go with pads? I'll probably stick with hawk, but I'm confused by all the different kinds. blue, HT-10, DTC? I used HP+ with good success, but can go a bit more aggressive I think. Would hope for decent wear, hopefully get thru another season on no more than 2 sets of pads.

Titanium backing plates: where to buy? Direct fitment?

Thx!
 
Check the thread below for lots of good info. I went with a Stoptech kit used in the SCCA Spec Mustang class. Besides the obvious benefits of quality forged calipers the rotors are 355x35 so 3mm thicker adding similar mass relative to a 380x32. Of course with the 355x35 there are no fitment issues. Filip at CorteX can get you setup with a set.

I'm also using Pagid RS29 and RS56 pads and use them for street and track. They are endurance racing pads but work on the street without squealing like a pig. They dust a lot as to be expected.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=6570.0
 
I'd just go with better pads. They are easily the weakest link in your current set up. If all you are doing is going back and forth to tracks, any track pad will be fine.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
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cosm3os said:
I'd just go with better pads. They are easily the weakest link in your current set up. If all you are doing is going back and forth to tracks, any track pad will be fine.

True that. Get some Carbotech XP24's for the front and XP 12's for the rear. Also have good DOT 4 fluid and brake cooling ducts. Factory rotors will save you money in the long run over 2 piece setups. If you do want to spend $3000 on the Stop Techs they are a good setup. There is a race team member selling a set of Grand Sport series Brembo Race brakes on the site at a very good price as well.
Steve
 
LTNYC said:
So after reading every thread already posted, in need of more opinion and clarification. I use the boss almost exclusively on track, and this winter I'm upgrading suspension/brakes/aero. I've been running the OE Brembos with hawk HP+ and blowfish brake cooling ducts, motul dot4. 11 events this season and I found the performance and wear very satisfactory. Squeaky on the street, but not annoying. I drive to track, and don't switch pads. Sticking with DOT approved rubber, but going with smaller diameter fatter stickier tires on lighter that OE wheels next season. Prob BFG, nitto or toyo on Enkeis or Racing Dynamics. Cortex or Griggs going in this winter too.

Questions:

Rotors: I'm leaning towards a lighter OE-sized two piece rotor to keep unsprung weight down with the larger rubber. Thinking girodisc or Baer eradispeed, but considering sticking with 1-piece to keep cost down over time, like DBA, centric, or just replacement brembo slotted. I used to subscribe to the bigger is better, but now I find the BBKs less and less appealing. Plus I don't think 15" rotors off the GT500 would fit under the 18s I'm considering... Thoughts?

Abs module: which is the correct race module for our car? There seems to be a few out there, and I'm hoping that one is a direct fit, not requiring an AIM or high expense adapter to make it work. Any expert advice? Who has made the change recently? I know ford discontinued the C module, now offers BA, CA, and a couple others that all look similar.

Pads: for a car driven sometimes 500mi to an event how aggressive can I go with pads? I'll probably stick with hawk, but I'm confused by all the different kinds. blue, HT-10, DTC? I used HP+ with good success, but can go a bit more aggressive I think. Would hope for decent wear, hopefully get thru another season on no more than 2 sets of pads.

Titanium backing plates: where to buy? Direct fitment?

Thx!

I've run Girodisc 2 piece with both Pagids and Carbotech. The Pagids (RST-2) is a great pad and kinder on the rotors than the XP-24's that have a bit more bite on the track. My car is now track only, but for road use the Pagids were fine. The Carbotech rears are more likely to glaze with light use than the Pagids.

I'm running the CA ABS controller that lights up the dash, but eliminates the nannies, and increases rear brake bias. ABS is also way less intrusive.

If your interested I have a spare ABS -- long story but it's packaged as a C but is identical to the CA -- never got round to posting for sale......

Will do so soon -- looking for 70% of retail.
 

gleek48

Tapatalk User
74
2
For open lapping / intermediate level HPDE's, do you guys recommend changing our the Boss' stock brake lines to SS ones?
 
gleek48 said:
For open lapping / intermediate level HPDE's, do you guys recommend changing our the Boss' stock brake lines to SS ones?

I went to SS, but only after DOT 4 fluid, cooling ducts and better pads, in that order. From a safety standpoint, the fluid and the cooling are most important. The pads, rotors and SS lines will help with performance......
 
Thanks Black Boss... Yes I would indeed be interested in the module. I'll PM U:)

Black Boss said:
I've run Girodisc 2 piece with both Pagids and Carbotech. The Pagids (RST-2) is a great pad and kinder on the rotors than the XP-24's that have a bit more bite on the track. My car is now track only, but for road use the Pagids were fine. The Carbotech rears are more likely to glaze with light use than the Pagids.

I'm running the CA ABS controller that lights up the dash, but eliminates the nannies, and increases rear brake bias. ABS is also way less intrusive.

If your interested I have a spare ABS -- long story but it's packaged as a C but is identical to the CA -- never got round to posting for sale......

Will do so soon -- looking for 70% of retail.
 
Black Boss said:
I went to SS, but only after DOT 4 fluid, cooling ducts and better pads, in that order. From a safety standpoint, the fluid and the cooling are most important. The pads, rotors and SS lines will help with performance......

Russell, stoptech or otherwise?
 
NFSBOSS said:
Check the thread below for lots of good info. I went with a Stoptech kit used in the SCCA Spec Mustang class. Besides the obvious benefits of quality forged calipers the rotors are 355x35 so 3mm thicker adding similar mass relative to a 380x32. Of course with the 355x35 there are no fitment issues. Filip at CorteX can get you setup with a set.

I'm also using Pagid RS29 and RS56 pads and use them for street and track. They are endurance racing pads but work on the street without squealing like a pig. They dust a lot as to be expected.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=6570.0

Thx NFBOSS! I did read that sticky... Twice before posted. Had more questions than answers after it!;)
 
cosm3os said:
I'd just go with better pads. They are easily the weakest link in your current set up. If all you are doing is going back and forth to tracks, any track pad will be fine.

My wallet appreciates this answer... I don't see myself dropping 3k on brakes just yet (rather out it into suspension first), but I think the right pads will be huge.
 
steveespo said:
True that. Get some Carbotech XP24's for the front and XP 12's for the rear. Also have good DOT 4 fluid and brake cooling ducts. Factory rotors will save you money in the long run over 2 piece setups. If you do want to spend $3000 on the Stop Techs they are a good setup. There is a race team member selling a set of Grand Sport series Brembo Race brakes on the site at a very good price as well.
Steve

Thx Steve. I'll look at these Carbotechs too...
 

gleek48

Tapatalk User
74
2
LTNYC said:
Russell, stoptech or otherwise?

I am looking at these:

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_280&products_id=586

Uses factory fittings and seems like they are designed for track cars.
 
gleek48 said:
I am looking at these:

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_280&products_id=586

Uses factory fittings and seems like they are designed for track cars.

Pricey, but they look good!
 
I used KNS Brakes for all my braking needs. It was a one-stop shop, so it made things a little easier.

I got carbotech XP24/10 combo, stoptech SS lines, and titanium shims from KNS a while ago. If I were to do it again, I may have gotten the goodridge lines instead of the stoptechs. the line brackets provided by goodridge are similar to the stock brackets. whereas, the stoptechs are just basically insulated wire clamps. The stoptechs still work fine, but I'd rather pay a little extra and get the beefier brackets.

As for the brake ducts, I went with Steve's kit (BF), and for rotors, I went with NAPA premium blank rotors, which run about $65ea. The stock rotors surprisingly last a long time, mine had some minor heat cracks when I replaced them, so now i carry them as spares.

Also, as Steve mentioned, I love the XP24's. Looks like I may be getting about 2-3 seasons out of these pads, whereas the XP10s (fronts) would only last me 2-3 weekends!
 

JScheier

Too Hot for the Boss!
I run the following and have had exceptional results and longevity:

1. OEM rotors: These are heavy, but they dissipate heat VERY well
2. Cobalt Friction Pads: XR1 front, XR3 rear. Long lasting with excellent torque, low dust and excellent support from their tech group. I've driven to events on these (100+ miles) and the only real issues are noise and being aware that cold track pads do NOT offer the initial bite of OEM pads... so be aware when coming off the freeway or doing panic stops
3. Boss 302S brake cooling ducts and backing plates
4. Vorshlag brake lines: Made by Pirtek, these things fit perfectly with all OEM style fittings. No zip ties needed :)
5. Ti backing plates

I like the Cobalt Friction pads so much, Andie is cooking up a set for my new (to me) GTS2 car along the lines of XR2 front and XR4 rear (car is 2700# with driver and low HP).

I've also started running MotorCraft replacement discs from RockAuto. Great price and long lasting. I'm running through a set a season (replacing by time, not necessarily need).
 

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