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the Real fix for exhaust rattle

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There are several threads on the exhaust rattle, and generally the fix is to twist the pipe in the clamp. This is not the ideal fix, and for me at least I have it turned as much as it will go without hitting somewhere else, the hanger is shimmed, and the connector is offset to allow a little more angle. Still it sometimes rattles. It rattled when I picked it up at the dealership. So here is the real fix, in MS Paint and real pics. I'll update it with on car and weld pics later.

Here is what the problem is, the clamps are tack welded on both canted the same direction. As a result, one is angled so it hits the underbody. Here is what it looks like from the front of the car.

clamps.png


So what I did was pop the weld on the passenger side clamp using a Dremel, then I twisted the clamp so it was lined up about the same as the other side but in the opposite direction. Here is how much I had to offset it.

offset.jpg


Still need to tack weld it together then rehang it. This should fix the rattle permanently. As I said, even with everything twisted and offset and shimmed it still rattled. If anyone else is having as much of an issue with it, take a look at how they are angled. The tack weld isn't really necessary imo if you don't have a welder.


Here it is welded, I left it at my bro's shop and he offered to weld it so I could go back to work. He misunderstood the point of the weld and did about 10x too much :eek: but it won't hurt anything. You can see how the bolt not hangs down instead of angled up, since the pipe is approximately at the angle it will be on the car. I rotated it down at least 45 degrees, probably more like 60.

welded.jpg



I put the pipe back on, worked like a charm. Now I can set it to even out the tip and not worry about banging. This first pic shows how the band is now, I think I turned it too much as it is angled more than the other side but it isn't going to hurt anything unless I scrape it and even then it will be one of the lesser issues.

1-1.jpg


Here is a shot of the driver's side one, just for reference. As you can see it is less angled than the new passenger side. If I had welded it on the car on a lift, I would have matched them. But good enough. Probably about 35 degrees of rotation would have been ideal.

2-1.jpg


I didn't get a pic on top of the band so show the clearance, but it is enough that the tube will hit the bottom of the car before the band does. If you guys have any issues with rattling, and it is from this piece, the fix is super easy. And like I said, the weld is overkill. I would have been perfectly comfortable without rewelding it if I had not had access to a welder. If you do weld it, only do a single tack. The overdone welds my bro did make it so that even when the nut is loose, the band holds pretty tight. I wasn't able to rotate the tube inside while it was on the car to perfectly align it, I will probably eventually have to take it off and bang it with a mallet.
 
Nice work, in for updates.
 
My guess is that they have them both canted the same direction so one guy on the driver's side can install all the bolts. Turning it will also make it easier to adjust if you are doing it on the ground imo.

Just checked my bro's shop and he is out of argon, so need to try to find a flux core stick. He says if I pick up the tank and shake it we may have enough come out to tack it ::) I really don't think the weld is necessary, and if you have a Dremel or similar to pop the old weld and don't put a new one, it is a 10 minute/1 beer fix.


Having it all out, I am tempted to weld up a complete replacement. Megaphone side pipes, sort of like the old TA Bosses had, would be pretty sweet. I think it would be pretty easy to do if I had the base piece (inboard of the clamp) and just added to that. There are several bolts hanging through the bottom of the car to use for brackets. And you could put a corrugated cone or similar up inside the pipe to prevent the JBrake.
 
If you got the angle right, instead of a bit too much like I did, then it would match the driver's side. If that one doesn't drag, then this one won't. Even how I have it, it hangs less than it did with the stock one as the whole pipe isn't angled anymore like the driver's side one is in the pics (I adjusted it after). That was how much I had to twist mine to not rattle, and it still did a little.
 

DA712

Owner of 2012 & 13 Boss 302's
Ok, I have to take another run at this... I have read and or tried every method advised on here and other sites. I do not have ANY clearance issues with the clamps as is reported here, or anywhere else for that matter. I have twisted and turned, I have varied the method of tightening one before the other, I have even tried less torque on the outboard bolt and added loc-tite to keep it there and no matter what the buzzing returns to both doors! Seriously, I have been able to get it cured for a few miles maybe 20 or so and then it returns.

I know the advice is out there to take it back and have it looked at, but really, its 3 bolts! What can they do that I haven't tried?

It seriously detracts from the enjoyment of driving it.

I'm at wits end here. Is there anything else one might try? I'm interested in the new Kooks sidepipes when they are out, hopefully that would cure it.

Has anyone tried to trace down where the buzz is in the door? Maybe that's the answer...
 
What about putting it on a lift with someone reving and see if you can isolate the rattle. You can't put it in gear as I don't think the traction control will let you power the wheels but a rev session might get it.
 
My clanking completely went away. If you don't have a clearance issue, you have a different problem. Maybe there is some other nut down there that is loose for something else. I can't diagnose it without seeing the car.

There is another very slight buzz sometimes, I thought it was passenger side but yesterday I had someone else drive it so I could figure out where it is and it sounded like it was on the driver side. So now I think it is in the middle, maybe under the console. Totally different barely audible buzz.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
I would get the car on ramps then follow the exhaust the entire length back. the axle tubes would be where I would look next. I like to have a finger thickness clearance or more front to back.
 
DA712 said:
Ok, I have to take another run at this... I have read and or tried every method advised on here and other sites. I do not have ANY clearance issues with the clamps as is reported here, or anywhere else for that matter. I have twisted and turned, I have varied the method of tightening one before the other, I have even tried less torque on the outboard bolt and added loc-tite to keep it there and no matter what the buzzing returns to both doors! Seriously, I have been able to get it cured for a few miles maybe 20 or so and then it returns.

I know the advice is out there to take it back and have it looked at, but really, its 3 bolts! What can they do that I haven't tried?

It seriously detracts from the enjoyment of driving it.

I'm at wits end here. Is there anything else one might try? I'm interested in the new Kooks sidepipes when they are out, hopefully that would cure it.

Has anyone tried to trace down where the buzz is in the door? Maybe that's the answer...


Any links to info about them? I have been thinking about fabbing up megaphone side pipes for track days that look like the old racing ones.
 

DA712

Owner of 2012 & 13 Boss 302's
2012YellowBoss said:
It is hard to say for anyone that does not have access to your car. Why would not take it in to the dealer since the car is under warranty?

I'm not opposed to taking it in, I just can't imagine what else they could do. I may end up having to...
 

DA712

Owner of 2012 & 13 Boss 302's
Thanks, I think a inspection of entire exhaust system is in order, but what makes me not so hopeful is by adjusting and re-setting everything the buzz does go away for a while, that tells me I'm in the right area. Nothing is loose when it does start up and I re-check everything. That's whats so baffling.
I even went so far as to cut rubber gaskets and put them between the body and the pipe mount! That actually made it worse.
I believe that's where its at.... Just can't figure it out.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
DA712 said:
Thanks, I think a inspection of entire exhaust system is in order, but what makes me not so hopeful is by adjusting and re-setting everything the buzz does go away for a while, that tells me I'm in the right area. Nothing is loose when it does start up and I re-check everything. That's whats so baffling.
I even went so far as to cut rubber gaskets and put them between the body and the pipe mount! That actually made it worse.
I believe that's where its at.... Just can't figure it out.
my passenger side one rattled when I picked it up but only if I had someone in the car....it was odd. lossened all the bolts on that side and postioned it so that tail end of it was far away from the pinch weld as possible. hasnt made the noise since. but when I first looked at it nothing was touching or even close to touching.
 
DA712 said:
I'm not opposed to taking it in, I just can't imagine what else they could do. I may end up having to...

My car came from the factory with one pipe hanging low so I took it in to the dealer. They were even nice enough to cut the bolts on the adjustment band when I told them they were too long and would hit my trailer when loading. Your dealer should be able to figure it out in no time with tools like a lift.
 
I'm going to cut them next time I have the exhaust off, but the bracket on the band was what was hitting on my car and not the bolt.
 
Had my tranny fluid swapped on thurs. and now I hear a rattle. Not a fan of hanging out at the dealer for a couple of hours while they sort things out. I'm wondering if this is something that only takes a nudge while working on it for it to start happening.
 

DA712

Owner of 2012 & 13 Boss 302's
Thanks for the input, I guess I should let it get as obnoxious as possible, then take it in. I can't over emphasis the amount of effort I've put into curing this, its insane! NO clearance issues, no loose bolts. Adjust. Adjust, Adjust. GRRRR!
 

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