The ULTRA lo buck autocross car...

Discussion in 'Rob's Garage' started by blacksheep-1, Feb 17, 2018.

  1. blacksheep-1

    blacksheep-1 TMO Addict

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    OK, got sidetracked with the whole engine thing, but I did manage to get the fuel tank brackets built and it installed in the car.

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  2. blacksheep-1

    blacksheep-1 TMO Addict

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    Back to the engine block, I started to hone it with a regular hone, keeping in mind that it's still a stock bore, I don't want to take out any more material than necessary. After I do that, I will finish hone it with a berry hone to break the glaze all through the bore surfaces. I like to use a standard hone because it keeps the bore straight.
    I used wheel cleaner and mineral spirits to clean things up, then Dawn detergent with warm water.
    I'm really beginning to love the idea of using wheel cleaner as a degreaser.

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    I used a self etching primer to cover the engine prior to painting..which will be coming later

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  3. blacksheep-1

    blacksheep-1 TMO Addict

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    Ok I finally got some time to work on the engine, I finish honed the cylinders, there are 3 hones that I use, the 2 "shoe" hones and the 1 berry hone. Keep in mind the goal here is to save the standard bore block, which means we can't go nutso on the hone. So I started with the shoe hones, they come in a couple of grits and their sole purpose is to keep the bore straight. So when I'm done with those the bore will have a dark wear spot on it where the shoe hones can't get to. The danger is that if you keep using the shoe hones you will end up boring the block out too far in order to cover the entire bore area. So...at some point, you have to take the bull by the tail and face the situation, the bore is so..so straight, but you need to finish hone the spots that the shoe hones can't get to. That's where the berry hone comes in, It will get every spot in the bore but it will do nothing to keep the bore straight, so proceed very carefully when using a berry hone because you can really screw yourself over if not careful

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    If you look at the top of the bore, you can see the dark spots where the shoe hones could not get to

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    If you look at the top of the bores in this pic, you can see the dark spots are gone after using the berry hone

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    One of the greatest inventions known to man, the ring expander, after I broke a ring back in the 70s I bought this tool.

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    I installed the rebuilt crank, and put a few drops of aviation permatex on the rear main to prevent any leakes

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    After washing the block again, the pistons went in

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    So, a few things, I check everything with Pllastigauge..just to make sure, there shouldn't be a problem since it is all new but..it doesn't hurt to check. Now Plastigauge is not that accurate for checking clearances, but it can tell you if you have any major disasters on the horizon. I also install a main cap, spin the motor, torque it, and spin it again, if you do that to every one, you can tell if there is a problem. If the crank feels tight, you probably made a mistake on the last main..rod..or whatever you installed. If you wait until you are done, or halfway done, and spin the engine over, you can't tell where you made the mistake at.

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    Last edited: May 3, 2018
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  4. DocB

    DocB TMO Intermediate

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    Rob, I like your placement of the tank regarding L-R. Excellent idea for weight distribution. I never saw that before.
    Guess you won't have to cut out the french fries now.
     
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  5. blacksheep-1

    blacksheep-1 TMO Addict

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    It's ALL about the french fries
     
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  6. blacksheep-1

    blacksheep-1 TMO Addict

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    I'm starting to explore the wheel situation, and being held to my own philosophy about cheap wheels, I'll restate that here.

    If I was king of the racing world, I'd make a class where you had to run steelies and bias ply tires. Instead of several thousands in a wheel setup and trick rubber you'd have $400 bucks in wheels and $800 in tires..

    15x14 on the rear, and 15x12 on the front is the plan, I'm looking for some either modified or Can Am tires to use..durometer about 45.

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  7. Grant 302

    Grant 302 OPM Spent: $509,979 Moderator

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    You *are* the king of the racing world! :D :cool:

    Agreed on the steelies, but I'd only want bias plies for drag racing. JMO.
     
  8. xr7

    xr7 Overdosed on TMO

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    No such thing as too much tire!
     
  9. blacksheep-1

    blacksheep-1 TMO Addict

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    there is always that possibility..I've done it
     
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  10. blacksheep-1

    blacksheep-1 TMO Addict

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    Due to my superior ability to scrounge parts, I picked up a 94 GT k-member..this has several benefits,
    1. it will accommodate the 5.0 without any chopping, the v6 crossmember was a maybe, and
    2. it is infinitely lighter (a metric crapload) than the 99-04 crossmember
    there's also a 3rd advantage in that I can prep this while still being able to move the car around on the old one.

    I know people will say "Rob..why don't you go aftermarket with coilovers?" ...to which I respond that this is supposed to be built on around a $4500 budget, and beat those guys...cheap fun is the whole purpose here.

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    Last edited: May 16, 2018
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  11. blacksheep-1

    blacksheep-1 TMO Addict

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    Keep something like this in the back of your mind...

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  12. Big Black

    Big Black Good, fast<del>, and cheap</del>

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  13. Big Black

    Big Black Good, fast<del>, and cheap</del>

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    There's a guy at the local 1/8 dragstrip that had the same idea. been running them 2 years. He's in eleventh place, just like last year.
     
  14. blacksheep-1

    blacksheep-1 TMO Addict

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    maybe he needs a driver
     
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  15. Big Black

    Big Black Good, fast<del>, and cheap</del>

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  16. blacksheep-1

    blacksheep-1 TMO Addict

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    Cleaned up the lightened 95 k member and lower control arms (CONTROL ARMS ) and cut 2 coils out of the 95 GT front springs. Waiting on the Steeda X2 ball joints..which I'm pretty sure are OEM in something..and misc parts

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  17. DocB

    DocB TMO Intermediate

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    You, cutting coils?
     
  18. blacksheep-1

    blacksheep-1 TMO Addict

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    absolutely, I don't think twice about it, I have a whole shelf full of them, marked and cut
     
  19. barstowpo

    barstowpo TMO Intermediate

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    If you use stock car wheels like Aero or Bassetts make sure you use the correct lug nuts. Racing wheels have a 45 degree taper while common street wheels have 30 degrees.
     
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  20. blacksheep-1

    blacksheep-1 TMO Addict

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    Well RATFARTS!.looks like I can't quite drop my Cobra calipers into the steel wheel, so..since it's an autocross car, I will have to go with smaller brakes..and these were sitting on the shelf.
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