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Thinking of Going Steeda Lowering Springs...Maybe...

So since changing out the Axle-backs, I've got the mod bug. In my mind the next big thing to do is lowering springs. My car is still a DD, but I'm thinking about doing a couple track days this year, so I'm not just going for looks. The Steeda Boss springs seem to fit the DD/track balance I'm looking for. Besides an adjustable panhard bar, would I need to get rear LCA relo brackets and/or new rear LCA's? What about the FRPP T springs? What suspension arena do those put me in?

BTW, I'm already getting the brake duct parts and planning on changing to DOT 4 brake fluid prior to any track day.
 
You should install the relocation brackets and while you're at it LCA's. They will make a difference.

Two questions: have you done track days before and is your car a DD?
 
NFSBOSS said:
You should install the relocation brackets and while you're at it LCA's. They will make a difference.

Two questions: have you done track days before and is your car a DD?
All I've done is BTA. And yes my car is a DD.
 
Since you aren't doing the springs for looks, go do a year plus of DEs and autox and learn the car. I would suggest that when you are looking to improve the performance of the suspension, you need to consider the entire system, including shocks and sway bars. But all that should come after you aren't the weakest link!
 
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Hey Fiddler - I ran Steeda Ultralites on my '12 Boss and really enjoyed them. They were recommended to me by Sam Strano and I was pleased with them - good ride, pretty stiff but tolerable and the nose dive and body roll were greatly reduced from OE.

I had FRPP P springs on my '13 LS and really liked them, too, although they were a tad softer than the Ultralites. Both types of springs will show you that the front shocks do not have enough rebound damping, even when set to 5, but it's not that big a deal - I preferred both over OE springs a lot.

There is a thread recently about LCA relos that you might want to dig up. I personally think they help having tried the cars with and without them.
 
Kyle has good advice but if you're going to do something consider the FR T springs and just change the rears. This will eliminate the off road look and retain the stock ride for your DD. This will also save install time/labor changing the front springs. If you go with stiffer springs you should consider better dampers. Lower stiffer springs will reduce body roll. Changing the LCA's with ones that have stiffer bushings will improve turn in on track and make a noticeable difference when rotating the car.
 
I don't think there's any question I'm the weak link...BTA proved that to me! However I'm itchin' to improve the looks with lowering, but I want function as well as form. As it is my DD, I'm also not looking for full on race car. At the same time, I'd like to take care of as much suspension mods at the same time ( :eek: ). So what I'm getting out of my BMO studies is that it's best to do rear LCA's (and relos) with lowering. If my lowering is not too extreme (as in Steeda Boss springs or FRPP T's) do I really need camber plates if my alignment set up will be a compromise to keep it a DD?

Yes cosm3os your sensible approach is also "nagging" at me as well...
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
+1 on keeping it stock for now. Cooling and brake mods are all you *need* for a couple of track days a year. That's all I've done on my Boss. My Brembo GT is lowered, and I can assure you that even lowering on just P springs greatly changes the handling characteristics. Not all of it is good. On a Boss, almost any springs beside the T spring will change the balance of the car.

If you *have to* lower it, I suggest T springs (or just P rears), adjustable PHB, and relocation brackets that take the stock LCAs.
 
I have the Steeda Boss springs and have been very happy with them , greatly reduced brake dive and I'm able to just clear the curb cut in front of my house to get in my driveway ! (I've had plenty of slammed cars and didn't want the hassle of having to straddle speed bumps)
 
Fiddler49 said:
Yes cosm3os your sensible approach is also "nagging" at me as well...

If you listened to it you would be the first. And there were a hundred guys telling me the same thing 15yrs ago and I ignored them, too!

Just keep this in mind--it's a suspension "system". Ford spent untold millions of dollars tuning the suspension for you, and you are going to go mess with that by throwing in a set of springs that Ford didn't intend to run in the system. There are aftermarket companies (including FFRP) who would be happy to sell you a "system" that has been tested on these cars that will be better looking AND better performing.
 
Thanks so much for all the helpful info! So IF I decide to lower, does this sound like a good "minimal" approach?

Whiteline relocation brackets
Whiteline adjustable panhard bar
FRPP T springs or Steeda Boss springs

Figure this would be a good place to grow from.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Fiddler49 said:
Thanks so much for all the helpful info! So IF I decide to lower, does this sound like a good "minimal" approach?

Whiteline relocation brackets
Whiteline adjustable panhard bar
FRPP T springs or Steeda Boss springs

Figure this would be a good place to grow from.

Maybe...if you just use the rear Steedas for now. I don't have any personal experience with the Steeda Boss springs but some online accounts have complained about:

1. Lack of drop on the front...and even a bit taller than stock
2. Reduced max negative camber setting when using CC plates due to larger front spring diameter
3. Tendency to oversteer when used on a mostly stock setup

If you drop the front at all, you'll probably also need CC plates or camber bolts to adjust camber for your balance of street/track mileage. If not, you'll likely cord the inside of your front tires. With the stock staggered tire setup and the asymmetrical P Zeros, there's no way to rotate/flip/remount the tires to work around that issue.
 
From what I've seen and been able to gather (reading online, looking at pictures online, looking at cars, and also calling the companies) on the springs:

The FRPP Boss springs lower a little more over the Steeda springs (from what I can remember within 0.25").
The Steeda springs are stiffer; whereas the FRPP springs are more similar to the factory Boss rates.

Get the beefy FRPP relocation brackets and your choice of lower control arm. Me, personally, because of NVH, I'd go with J&M non-adjustables with the poly-sphere joint in one end or Eibach adjustables with higher durometer bushings. The Steeda arms or Whiteline arms are also good, but are poly/poly.
 
Oh, to answer your question on camber and lowering: No, you can get away with the stock strut mounts. But I will say that upgrading from the stock mounts isn't a bad idea. Not a must do, though. When I went from stock to Steeda Heavy Duty mounts, I actually noticed a slight decrease in NVH.
 
Hmmm, starting to think the "do nothing for now" option may be the best until I get some track time in. Too much money to invest in something I might not be entirely happy with down the road...so to speak. Some more questions:

[list type=decimal]
[*]I've read about interference issues with the FRPP relocation brackets and the stock Boss sway bar. Anyone experience this?
[*]Would the Steeda CC plates help with the max negative camber setting issue?
[*]How would you fix the oversteer tendency of the Steeda Boss springs?
[*]Is brake dive with the FRPP T springs just as bad as stock?
[/list]
 
Fiddler49 said:
Hmmm, starting to think the "do nothing for now" option may be the best until I get some track time in. Too much money to invest in something I might not be entirely happy with down the road...so to speak. Some more questions:

[list type=decimal]
[*]I've read about interference issues with the FRPP relocation brackets and the stock Boss sway bar. Anyone experience this?
[*]Would the Steeda CC plates help with the max negative camber setting issue?
[*]How would you fix the oversteer tendency of the Steeda Boss springs?
[*]Is brake dive with the FRPP T springs just as bad as stock?
[/list]

1. First I've heard of this.
2. You should be able to get almost -2.0 camber with the Steeda plates.
3. I would suggest either getting an adjustable front bar or get a stock GT (24mm) or V6 (22mm). I run a 22mm bar.
4. No exerience with this.
 
Keep her stock and learn her.
I believe that most of us ( including me) are not skillful enough to keep up with what the Boss can offer from performance and power.
But I hear you though, yes the Boss is faster than many many other way more expensive sports cars around a road course, but I don't see her as a very confidence inspiring vehicle and that is because I am not a skilled driver, despite I had 9 track days with my Boss last year.
I will only modify my Boss to make it easier to drive fast and more confidence inspiring, however I might not end up being any faster though, ironic! Lol
Give a serious thought to dampers and may be a smaller rear sway bar.
 

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