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Thoughts on a street/track rotors

For the past couple years, I have swapped my front rotors prior to HPDE days, going back to the stock set. But my track setup is now showing some signs of warping, so I'm looking at changing up my strategy. My main goal is cut down on my pre/post-track prep time and leave the rotors on full time and just swap pads, even if it costs more.

I have narrowed down a couple options, but wanted to get some feedback:

1) Go with StopTech, cryo treated, cross-drilled rotors full-time (currently running them on the street). I know many track enthusiasts stay away from cross-drilled because of cracking, but others say the quality of the brand really matters more. Also, I don't know if cryo treatment is more of a marketing gimmick or something that is worth the extra cost.

2) Move to a 2-piece, slotted rotor. Looking at Roush, Full Tilt Boggie or DBA two-piece setup to drop some rotating mass. This is my most expensive option. Is a well made, pricey set of rotors worth it? Will it help extend the life of the rotor and prevent warping better than OE?

3) Plan to buy new OE rotors and simply throw them out every season or at signs of warping. Do I just treat the rotors like a 'toss-away' item and save my cash or other stuff? I really like the cross-drilled look for the street, but I'm willing to give that up for saving time with the pre/post HDPE swap. I know I can get them 'turned', but for the cost and time, it's almost easier to get new ones with this option.

THX!
 
First question, do you have brake cooling ducts installed?
 
Personally, I stay away from drilled stuff. I'd consider slotted, but it's usually more expensive, so I stay away from that too.

I vote for OEM style blanks. I usually go with whoever's on sale, or the cheapest. Some probably won't agree with my strategy ;D

So far I've used OEM motorcraft, NAPA performance blanks, and Centric blanks, with all similar performance and longevity. Like your plan, I keep the rotors on the car all year round, track and street. I even go a step further and run race pads on the street, due to my laziness... even in the winter :eek:
Only thing is, during the first event of the season, I have to be careful, since the first few laps are usually used to clean up pad material off the rotor, which have occurred from street driving.
 
1,022
97
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Texas
Rotors will not generally warp...what is confused as rotors warping is actually just pad deposits on the rotor face causing unequal friction points, thus you get the shuddering that most confuse as warping.

I would buy my rotors from CJ Pony parts when they were on sale for $50ish a piece. Free shipping and they last just as long as the expensive stoptechs I used to buy. That's my advice
 
5,658
6,744
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
When I bought my first set of track pads I called Hawk and talked to an engineer first. What he told me is that warpage often happens when you switch pads from one brand to another (like street/track pads from different companies) because the bonding doesn't always play nice with each other. He recommended to me that I use the same brand street pad as track pad to avoid any possible problems.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
VoodooBOSS said:
The stock rotors rarely warp that's why I asked. Stock rotors should wear out before they warp.

Also #3 and I use race pads on the street because I'm too lazy to swap back n forth. ;D

This. I'm only running dba 4000 because I got them on sale. I'm also using race pads on the street and plugs in the ducts. I already feel that swapping to slicks and damper settings is enough track prep in the AM. I even set pressures the day before. And that happens to be easier to control.
 
Thanks for the replies. I have no issue swapping pads the evening before I hit the track...but just getting sick of doing the rotors. The crazy piggy-squealing noises race pads make on the street would drive me nuts daily driving :eek:. I do run race pads on the rear (Carbotech XP-8), but the noise is tolerable and I'm just dealing with the extra dust.

VoodooBOSS said:
The stock rotors rarely warp that's why I asked. Stock rotors should wear out before they warp.

Flyboygsxr said:
Rotors will not generally warp...what is confused as rotors warping is actually just pad deposits on the rotor face causing unequal friction points, thus you get the shuddering that most confuse as warping.

Interesting comments on warping. I did have the rotors turned at the tire shop a few years back and they said were significantly warped based on the machining. When I noticed some shuddering under heavy braking a few weeks ago, my thought was they were just getting warped again. Didn't think about deposits building up to cause the shudder.

Fabman said:
When I bought my first set of track pads I called Hawk and talked to an engineer first. What he told me is that warpage often happens when you switch pads from one brand to another (like street/track pads from different companies) because the bonding doesn't always play nice with each other. He recommended to me that I use the same brand street pad as track pad to avoid any possible problems.

This isn't the case for me since my race pads are only used on my stock rotors (at least until now). But have heard that keeping the same brand street and track pad is a good idea.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
barspen said:
The crazy piggy-squealing noises race pads make on the street would drive me nuts daily driving :eek:.

I find that the worst of the noise might persist for a few days of driving after a track day. Then back to a fairly tolerable level and just occasional squeaks. That's with both Hawks and PFCs and to some extent the OEM Ferodos.
 
5,001
5,817
Here's an old econo-mod racer trick
Try to find an applicable rotor at Advanced and some other chain parts store, like Autozone, buy them, (one set from each store, with the lifetime warranty)
They will get tired of replacing them so you can spread the love over several chains if needed.
Replace as necessary, blaming the useage and warping on the wife always riding the brake pedal, something like "man my wife us hell on brakes" should do it.
You could maybe even put a sticker on your car as an "associate sponsor" if you feel guilty.

I could tell you a story about Hertz rental cars and T5 transmission "sponsorships" as well, from back in the day, but I better not.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
7,000
6,143
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
I'm in the two piece rotor set, and like Sako would recommend you stay away from drilled, just slotted. I feel braking is a lost Art and when I would outbrake guys in Porsches in a Boss, I fully suggest you try this route. Sure they are more expensive , but you do get what you pay for.

Good options;
Girodisc
Stoptech
Brembo - harder to get

Ran them with Carbotech 24s on the front and was lazy like VoodooBoss , I just let them squeal and when folks looked over I just stared back with a look of amazement --" Like what is happening." Loved the responses , almost worth the noise ,ha.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,980
4,302
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
I had great luck with Girodisc rotors. 12 track day, no issues. Then a weekend at Road America... Have a set of DBA 4000s because like mentioned earlier, they had a great sale going at one time.
 
Here is my front brake rotor experience..... I don't quite understand it, but it's true.....

I installed DBA5000 two-piece rotors on the front four years and 40k miles ago.... which includes 22 HPDE track days (Laguna Seca, Sonoma, Buttonwillow and Auto Club Speedway).... I measured the rotor thickness after my last track day, and I still haven't gone through even half the wear for replacement. [The numbers I have from a DBA catalog is 32mm thickness new, and replace at 30mm.... and I'm still above 31mm thickness. I even purchased a 1-2" micrometer to measure! :) ]

I think I have gone through 3 sets of Carbotech XP12s for the track; I swap to Carbotech Bobcats (1521s) for the street... minimal squeal. I moved up to Carbotech XP20s for my last track day at Sonoma.

I installed the brake ducts when I installed the DBA5000s. After the first track day on new pads (that is, when there is space), I use titanium shims.

I run street tires -- most recently Nitto NT05s -- on my 18" Enkei PF01s track-only wheels.

For reference, my fastest lap at Sonoma is 2:03.50. According to RaceChrono, I braked from 107mph to 33mph in turn 7. I know I can improve my braking technique with more initial brake pressure, plus I could probably go faster in the corners; just need more track time.

Bottom-line, I am very pleased with the brake setup.... and I am very pleased that I swap only pads (and bleed) for a track day. I definitely don't mind buying just brake pads (and brake fluid). So a big portion of my track prep is swap wheels, bleed four corners, install track pads.... [I suppose I could minimize even this task by going to Castrol SRF, but it would feel strange to not bleed.... and I already have SpeedBleeders installed.]

Is this how DBA5000 rotors are supposed to behave? Is it some magic combination with Carbotech and DBA? Or maybe I am just too slow and my amateur braking technique wears down the pads and not the rotors??

I did not pay for cryo treatment, and don't even think cryo was an option.

-----

FYI, the rears are a different story.... I purchased and installed DBA4000 rotors for the rear; nothing extraordinary, and when they needed replacement (perhaps because I installed new rear brake pads after 9 track days), I installed the $25 slotted Ultra rotors that Rockauto was clearing out a few years ago. I think I am on my second set of Carbotech XP8s, which I leave in full-time.

-----

PS Everything above (wheels, tires, pads, rotors, shims) was learned from reading BMO/TMO, so a big thank you to all of you!
 
SBY LS330 said:
Here is my front brake rotor experience..... I don't quite understand it, but it's true.....

I installed DBA5000 two-piece rotors on the front four years and 40k miles ago.... which includes 22 HPDE track days (Laguna Seca, Sonoma, Buttonwillow and Auto Club Speedway).... I measured the rotor thickness after my last track day, and I still haven't gone through even half the wear for replacement. [The numbers I have from a DBA catalog is 32mm thickness new, and replace at 30mm.... and I'm still above 31mm thickness. I even purchased a 1-2" micrometer to measure! :) ]

I think I have gone through 3 sets of Carbotech XP12s for the track; I swap to Carbotech Bobcats (1521s) for the street... minimal squeal. I moved up to Carbotech XP20s for my last track day at Sonoma.

I installed the brake ducts when I installed the DBA5000s. After the first track day on new pads (that is, when there is space), I use titanium shims.

I run street tires -- most recently Nitto NT05s -- on my 18" Enkei PF01s track-only wheels.

For reference, my fastest lap at Sonoma is 2:03.50. According to RaceChrono, I braked from 107mph to 33mph in turn 7. I know I can improve my braking technique with more initial brake pressure, plus I could probably go faster in the corners; just need more track time.

Bottom-line, I am very pleased with the brake setup.... and I am very pleased that I swap only pads (and bleed) for a track day. I definitely don't mind buying just brake pads (and brake fluid). So a big portion of my track prep is swap wheels, bleed four corners, install track pads.... [I suppose I could minimize even this task by going to Castrol SRF, but it would feel strange to not bleed.... and I already have SpeedBleeders installed.]

Is this how DBA5000 rotors are supposed to behave? Is it some magic combination with Carbotech and DBA? Or maybe I am just too slow and my amateur braking technique wears down the pads and not the rotors??

I did not pay for cryo treatment, and don't even think cryo was an option.

-----

FYI, the rears are a different story.... I purchased and installed DBA4000 rotors for the rear; nothing extraordinary, and when they needed replacement (perhaps because I installed new rear brake pads after 9 track days), I installed the $25 slotted Ultra rotors that Rockauto was clearing out a few years ago. I think I am on my second set of Carbotech XP8s, which I leave in full-time.

-----

PS Everything above (wheels, tires, pads, rotors, shims) was learned from reading BMO/TMO, so a big thank you to all of you!
Thanks for the compliment! I'm not surprised by this. The stock brakes properly setup work very well. With your brake cooling ducts it takes a lot to overheat the brakes and Sonoma is not the hardest track on brakes. Do you run the TC while on track? If so it intervene's a lot and can easily cook your rear brakes.
 
206
30
Bill Pemberton said:
I'm in the two piece rotor set, and like Sako would recommend you stay away from drilled, just slotted. I feel braking is a lost Art and when I would outbrake guys in Porsches in a Boss, I fully suggest you try this route.


I would love to hear more about your technique of how you were outbraking them. I'm still learning the proper way of braking late hard but not too hard etc. I feel it's easy to brake way to early and get off early again.

Jake
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
4,805
3,624
Santiago, Chile
SBY LS330 said:
Here is my front brake rotor experience..... I don't quite understand it, but it's true.....

I installed DBA5000 two-piece rotors on the front four years and 40k miles ago.... which includes 22 HPDE track days (Laguna Seca, Sonoma, Buttonwillow and Auto Club Speedway).... I measured the rotor thickness after my last track day, and I still haven't gone through even half the wear for replacement. [The numbers I have from a DBA catalog is 32mm thickness new, and replace at 30mm.... and I'm still above 31mm thickness. I even purchased a 1-2" micrometer to measure! :) ]

I think I have gone through 3 sets of Carbotech XP12s for the track; I swap to Carbotech Bobcats (1521s) for the street... minimal squeal. I moved up to Carbotech XP20s for my last track day at Sonoma.

I installed the brake ducts when I installed the DBA5000s. After the first track day on new pads (that is, when there is space), I use titanium shims.

I run street tires -- most recently Nitto NT05s -- on my 18" Enkei PF01s track-only wheels.

For reference, my fastest lap at Sonoma is 2:03.50. According to RaceChrono, I braked from 107mph to 33mph in turn 7. I know I can improve my braking technique with more initial brake pressure, plus I could probably go faster in the corners; just need more track time.

Bottom-line, I am very pleased with the brake setup.... and I am very pleased that I swap only pads (and bleed) for a track day. I definitely don't mind buying just brake pads (and brake fluid). So a big portion of my track prep is swap wheels, bleed four corners, install track pads.... [I suppose I could minimize even this task by going to Castrol SRF, but it would feel strange to not bleed.... and I already have SpeedBleeders installed.]

Is this how DBA5000 rotors are supposed to behave? Is it some magic combination with Carbotech and DBA? Or maybe I am just too slow and my amateur braking technique wears down the pads and not the rotors??

I did not pay for cryo treatment, and don't even think cryo was an option.

-----

FYI, the rears are a different story.... I purchased and installed DBA4000 rotors for the rear; nothing extraordinary, and when they needed replacement (perhaps because I installed new rear brake pads after 9 track days), I installed the $25 slotted Ultra rotors that Rockauto was clearing out a few years ago. I think I am on my second set of Carbotech XP8s, which I leave in full-time.

-----

PS Everything above (wheels, tires, pads, rotors, shims) was learned from reading BMO/TMO, so a big thank you to all of you!

Hmm.... Thats a lot of track time on theDBA 5000 discs. Makes me wonder if I should go to 2 pc disks... I don't get more then 12 events max some times less on my stoptechs 1pc.... I just received a set of stock OEM discs but the chumps sent the wrong part number, looks like a pair of Focus discs....... aftrer shipping duties etc .... :mad:
 
VoodooBOSS said:
Thanks for the compliment! I'm not surprised by this. The stock brakes properly setup work very well. With your brake cooling ducts it takes a lot to overheat the brakes and Sonoma is not the hardest track on brakes. Do you run the TC while on track? If so it intervene's a lot and can easily cook your rear brakes.

Pretty much automatic when I start the car: brake pedal and hit that button for AdvanceTrac SPORT MODE. I just know that if I completely disable TC, my car will immediately veer off track and into a wall! :)

When I first drove my Boss down a local twisty bumpy hill, I was startled by the grabbing brakes (and the loose rear axle). This is my first Mustang, so the sensations were new and disconcerting.... I started looking for multiple Mustangs crashed on the side of the road! :) So always sport mode..... and non-adjustable rear LCAs with poly bushings! (and adjustable panhard bar to center the rear axle.... again BMO to the rescue!)
 

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