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Tire wear specifically on Left biased Roval?

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5-10 Years
SoCal
When I change the camber bolt thing on the strut my skinny 295's hit the strut! So I need more spacer. Scrub radius change is a concern but I don't have a lot of choice.

What wheel/offset are you running? And what size spacer currently?

Speed Ventures is back at ACS March 13&14 - pick a day and I would gladly make sure I’m in a different run group so we could take hot pressures and tread temps on pit road.
 
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sfo
What wheel/offset are you running? And what size spacer currently?

Speed Ventures is back at ACS March 13&14 - pick a day and I would gladly make sure I’m in a different run group so we could take hot pressures and tread temps on pit road.

I'm running the Apex EC7's 18x11's that are popular and OP mustang 25mm spacers. I might take you up on SV depending on my prep for T-hill race the next weekend and how soon I get the bigger spacers from OP. The early months are busy. I raced last weekend at ACS and CoTA in 2 weeks then Thill 2 weeks later. Your offer is kind and we can figure it out for each other's set-up being in different groups.
 
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And I’d still zero this out.

Every mile you travel, you are unnecessarily scrubbing both fronts about 6 feet laterally. I don’t think improving your turn-in is worth this compromise in wear.

You could be right. It is worth a try.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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4,008
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W2W Racing
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Cookeville TN
I do not have bolts per se. But there are 2 bolts on my struts and I can get more camber but I also cut the clearance of strut to tire. I do not want to go there but my camber plates are maxed out. I need 1/2 Degree more. No place else to get it but at expense of increasing scrub radius.

Raceday only has race and qualy. There just are not enough sessions like an hpde where I'm on track 4-5x a day.
Bob,SPL parts make adjustable lower control arms and tension links that can be used to move the lower part of the hub carrier outward to add negative camber. They are lighter than OEM as well. @Black Boss runs them on his race car so they are race proven for durability. https://www.splparts.com/s550-mustang-15/
 
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Bob,SPL parts make adjustable lower control arms and tension links that can be used to move the lower part of the hub carrier outward to add negative camber. They are lighter than OEM as well. @Black Boss runs them on his race car so they are race proven for durability. https://www.splparts.com/s550-mustang-15/

I like that! Do any of the SPL parts compensate for front roll center on lowered cars? I wish I could use those parts but not legal for my race class.
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
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San Diego
I like that! Do any of the SPL parts compensate for front roll center on lowered cars? I wish I could use those parts but not legal for my race class.
I've got their front control arm and front tension rods, and yeah, if you play with the washers just right, you should be able to dial your roll center, track width, and camber. Them being spherical should also allow for a smooth articulation without binding up. I dig em, plus they helped shave like another 15-20# off the front.
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
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Wow. I wish I could go with the SPL products. Class rules....darn....
C'mon over to NASA, the water's nice :D
 
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Autocross
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20+ Years
So Cal
On a heavily direction biased track, I've definitely ran into the same wear issues that you've found. 100% you need to reduce FL camber. You're dragging that inside front. Reducing front toe out would be something to consider, but you need to stagger cambers side-to-side. The trick is to do it in a way which keeps the car balance in the rights, even though you know you're giving away ultimate grip. I reduce camber in both ends of the car proportionally.

An example:
Initial cambers -4.0* front & -2.0* rear. If I reduce FL camber to -3.0*, then I'll reduce the RL to -1.5*. We've stood up each tire in a proportionally equal way. If I can keep the balance similar in each direction, then I find time lost in the "off" direction is minimal and the time/tire wear gained in the "on" direction is fairly well optimized. You can generally only stagger cambers until it starts messing with the car on the brakes. A 1* split on the front is big. Start with a ~1/2* stagger front & ~1/4* stagger rear

For a Roval, I'd also try to carry a good chunk of FL weight (100+ pounds). Again, don't go so far as to hurt braking, but I bet that would take wear off *both* front tires.
 
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