Torsen Differential Install

[Grant 302]

Grant, I've been watching this item for the past year and a half and had originally seen pricing over 1K. Now I started seeing them running for $850-$950. Then I ran across it from Buy Ford Racing from DPM for $799 shipped and pulled the trigger. I suppose getting it at such a decent price only added to my concern that I got the right part since it didn't look like the one pictured. Thanks to those who helped me get confirmation that I did indeed get the right OEM Boss Torsen for my 2012.

http://www.buyfordracingfromdpm.com/products/2012-MUSTANG-BOSS-302-TORSEN-DIFFERENTIAL.html

That's a nice price! I haven't been looking lately, but it looks like all of the Torsen prices have dropped.

I remember finding something in my research that you are better off with the Boss diff over the older 4:1 unit for track use and particularly slicks.

found it:

"The unit found in the current BOSS Mustang would work best for your vehicles.
That particular unit was designed to be more robust because of the Laguna
requirements. Will you be running slicks or street legal slicks on you cars?
The reason for the question is that the Torsen needs to slip in order to
function properly. Slicks tend to prolong the point of slipping so much so that
the impact torque sent through the Torsen to the other tire is of a larger
magnitude than what the unit was designed for in the first place. Enough of
these high torque spikes and the unit will prematurely fail.

Thanks for the question and interest in Torsen!"

 

[TymeSlayer]

Inspect the axles real well in the bearing area for wear and pitting

Excellent advise.

Looks like I'll have to remove the BMR Watts Link to get at the differential. I have a new differential gasket, ring & pinion installation kit along with the axle bearing and seal. I'll also be throwing on the differential breather I got a few months back and changing the fluids with Royal Purple 74W140. I have a slide hammer, a bearing puller and bearing and seal driver. Anything other tools other than the normal I'll need?

Still not sure if I'll do this at home on my back or use the local DIY shop because the access to a lift and hand if I need it.

 

[F.D. Sako]

Could you document your install?
I'd really like to learn how pinion gears and stuff are installed. All that backlash and pre-load talk scares me!

 

[302 Hi Pro]

"Anything other tools other than the normal I'll need?"

Still not sure if I'll do this at home on my back or use the local DIY shop because the access to a lift and hand if I need it.

You'll need the set-up tools, here is an example:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Pro-Ring-Pinion-Setup-Tool-Set,2707.html

You'll need gear witness paste, see here:

https://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Book/Reading-and-Adjusting-Ring-and-Pinion-Tooth-Patterns.pdf

You'll need a press for carrier bearings.

Keep us posted.
2HP

PS: if this is your first diff install, I would do it at home garage as the set-up process is going to take a while for a first timer.

 

[kcbrown]

There are 3 different units that I know of.
T-2 bias ratio of 2:1
Boss specific (I've seen it called both T-2 and T-2R) bias ratio of 2.7:1 This is the OEM/factory unit.
T-2R bias ratio of 4:1

The Boss unit was always the most expensive ~$1k or so. The other ones were cheaper.

Which ratio went into the GT track package?



(Sent with Tapatalk, so apologies for the lackluster formatting)

 

[Grant 302]

I've assumed it was the same 2.7:1 Boss unit. Mostly because in '13 they were getting the same painted axle assembly. Not so sure about the '15+ cars, except that I don't see why it would change.

 

[TymeSlayer]

One last thought, If you are running a Watts Link that bolts to the rear differential cover, I would omit any use of a rear cover gasket and run with the sealant to remove any gasket compression issues under max Watts Link loads on the rear cover. Just a thought.

Good luck with your install and keep us posted on your Torsen install.
2HP

As a FYI - The BMR Watts Link does not bolt up to the differential cover.