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Track Brake Pads - G-LOC vs Hawk

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pretty damn good really.. never faded all day. so for a track day pad was very good.. for a race pad though still not sure I would trust it.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
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20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
One little word to the wise, losing your brakes is not a fun trip , so I always push folks to get a more aggressive pad than they think they need. The problem is we often spend a ton of money of more HP, crazy options, and we skimp on the one item that is in the top three ( in my estimation) of things to buy to go fast!

......and it is probably the safest accessory you can buy for your car?! High Temp fluid is always a normal component when talking pads , a necessity that is part of the braking package ---it is the knife to the pad's fork!
 
1,289
1,113
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Philly Metro Area
Bill,

Your comments are on point but I'm getting the impression that you are outright dismissive of the PowerStop Track Day pads.

While I'm sure the G-LOC, CarboTech, Pagid, Raybestos ST-43, etc are better pads and more suited to competition and/or endurance racing, the PowerStop Track Day Pads seem better and longer lived than the Hawk HP+ or HPS pads.

A few others (including a familiar name) have used the pads and have been happy with them.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/powerstop-track-day-pads.14075/

I use them with Motul 600 fluid (switching to Castrol SRF) and Vorshlag 3" cooling ducts & backing plates.

Give them a try for an HPDE session and compare for yourself. You might be surprised.

I have no affiliation at all with PS but will be willing to pay for a set of front pads for you just to get your expert opinion of them.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,496
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Blair, Nebraska
Sorry , if I gave that impression , as it is nothing more than my own tendency to lean towards overkill. This is likely born by situations where I have seen folks lose their brakes and been on a ride in one situation - have found folks braking capabilities vary tremendously. Instructing or helping friends , the most important item for running on track is usually relegated down the line for improvements , yet it ( brake pads , fluids ) should be the number one item of funds spent. Most people apply their brakes , on track , as they would on the street, and this can cause even more wear than when they finally learn the proper application ( based on most Driving/Racing School techniques ). This is such a misunderstood part of going fast to many , and yet almost everyone does not spend enough time perfecting technique. So, because I have had folks who were fast and pretty good at braking and others where braking seemed to be a mystery, I push overkill ----- I was a Safety Steward with SCCA for 10 years , so I guess just part of my DNA and it carried over to teaching fundamentals to folks.

PS - sorry , I kind of came to the same conclusion as Vorschlag , and have known Danny Puskar forever, so am pretty comfortable with G-Loc ( I always recommend getting them pre-bedded ). I am being pushed by a couple of friends, and my fabricator, to try a certain Hawk pad and I may do that, but since I road race primarily , I will not take up your kind suggestion , because I already know I am hard, hard, hard on pads.
 
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I am pretty hard on pads and I run R18 front and R10 rears. Get 3 to 4 track days on them. Rotors have not even worn out 1/2 mm. They are DB4000's.

I do have a place near my house to bed them in properly, which I am sure helps, just not sure if it helps longevity.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,496
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Blair, Nebraska
Antman, I like your choice ,that is what I find works for me also, since, like you I am a late ,deep brake applier. The 18 is their most aggressive pad , but I find they work really well on fast tracks!
 
756
1,115
TX
I ran G-Locs and while I loved their performance, they wore too fast for my liking. I also had all 3 sets fail on me with one even having the pad material separate from the back plate and fall out completelybrakes-1-jpg.jpg

I run the ST43s now and they damn near last 2x times as long as the rotors. Not quite as much bite, tho.
 
1,289
1,113
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Philly Metro Area
Wow. Do you have brake ducts?

How thick was the pad before you started that day? I wouldn't even think about going out on the track with pad thickness of twice that amount. Maybe even 3x.

In addition to the possibility of going metal on metal, the lack of much pad will transmit more heat to your caliper, it's seals and the fluid.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,240
4,228
Santiago, Chile
Them pads were done before they even got warm! But Its true that the Glocs 16 do wear a LOT faster then the Pagids for example... Am trying a set of Gloc18's soon
 
756
1,115
TX
Wow. Do you have brake ducts?

How thick was the pad before you started that day? I wouldn't even think about going out on the track with pad thickness of twice that amount. Maybe even 3x.

In addition to the possibility of going metal on metal, the lack of much pad will transmit more heat to your caliper, it's seals and the fluid.

Nope. They're the oem GT350 brakes. Pads had about half thickness left when the day started (this was day 3). I just don't think the R16s handle heat super well.

Them pads were done before they even got warm! But Its true that the Glocs 16 do wear a LOT faster then the Pagids for example... Am trying a set of Gloc18's soon

Curious to hear what you think compared to the R16s. Have you run the Raybestos ST43s
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,240
4,228
Santiago, Chile
I found the R16 lasted about 2.5 hours of track time.... The Pagids are more expensive, but can last for over 6 hours easily. Have not tried the ST43s
 
Food for thought: I got @Fabman brake ducts (Got them so figured I would test them). I got them in 3 inch since I do not have the 4 inch inlet. I went to a place where I could and did 5 consecutive 0 - 100 - 0 runs back to back using old ****** brand (do not want to smear anyone). I then installed Sal's ducts. I mean hard braking completely back to back with 15 seconds between runs. Also no downshifting.

Conditions identical and same 5 runs after install (absolutely nothing else changed). He sends them with several different size spacers for exact fit. Also the duct is oval and blows air much more efficiently at the rotor. Using an infrared gun, my rotor temps were 200* cooler with his ducts. We tried the tests 3 times each and same results averaged across three tests with each duct.

FWIW, all conditions identical except ducts. 200* has to account for something in terms of longevity and overall performance of any pad.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Food for thought: I got @Fabman brake ducts (Got them so figured I would test them). I got them in 3 inch since I do not have the 4 inch inlet. I went to a place where I could and did 5 consecutive 0 - 100 - 0 runs back to back using old ****** brand (do not want to smear anyone). I then installed Sal's ducts. I mean hard braking completely back to back with 15 seconds between runs. Also no downshifting.

Conditions identical and same 5 runs after install (absolutely nothing else changed). He sends them with several different size spacers for exact fit. Also the duct is oval and blows air much more efficiently at the rotor. Using an infrared gun, my rotor temps were 200* cooler with his ducts. We tried the tests 3 times each and same results averaged across three tests with each duct.

FWIW, all conditions identical except ducts. 200* has to account for something in terms of longevity and overall performance of any pad.
Glad you like them, a lot of love and hand work goes into the parts we build.
Also glad to hear you took the time to do an actual test. 200* is a bunch.
Makes all that extra work I put in to them just a little bit easier after hearing that.
Enjoy.
-Sal
 

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