Track Oiling Data (AiM Race Data Analysis)

[ArizonaBOSS]

Guys:

This was the first weekend I've been able to use my AiM system while racing competitively out here in AZ. Here is a data trace of my fastest lap of the weekend showing a number of channels being monitored via CANBUS and Oil sensors.

I am running the stock BOSS302 oil pan, with the FRPP oil-to-air cooler in-series with the factory oil-to-water cooler, 302S grille, Tiger hood, 2013 SVT fan assembly, and no AC condenser. 10 quarts of 5w50 Castrol Syntec. Ambient temperature in the low 70* range; altitude 1200ft or so above sea level.

This is on a relatively high-speed track with average speeds around 80mph and max speed above 140mph. Here is the map of the track itself, we run CCW as indicated by the arrow on the straight. Total length around 1.6 miles:


And here is the data trace combined with the corner numbers (click to enlarge):


P_Pedal is the throttle position and a_Master_Cyl_Press is the brake pressure at the master cylinder.

I know this is a bit of information overload but my key takeaway was that oil pressure gets lowest on-track during hard braking events and/or braking events combined with steering input (trail braking). This makes sense since the sump is low in the rear of the pan. I was surprised to see that the long sweeping corners didn't really affect the oil pressure.

Another thing to note is the Oil Temperature, staying within 6*F the entire lap with the cooler setup I'm running. This is oil temp POST cooler, due to the physical limitations on which side of the sandwich plate I could stick the sensors on.
Also you can see the ECT chart as well, maxing out around 214 in clean air.

I'm interested to see how these numbers climb when the weather gets hot again!

Anyways just some food for thought / reference points for track rats wondering about this stuff.

So long...

 

[steveespo]

I love this stuff! Oil Pressure and temps look great, even at the low point at 51 psi you have more than enough oil pressure for the RPM being turned at that point. You are off the gas and under braking so there is alot less load on the main and rod bearings than when accelerating, you have no oil starvation issues. Where is the system picking up the Master Cylinder pressur? From the ABS system computer? I'm assuming this connects through the OBD port/CAN Bus for this type of info and only the Oil Pressure and temp come off of analog sensors.
I love my traqmate but I also love this AIM data. Are you able to overlay speed and tach info on video with this system?
PS You need a wing thing!
Steve

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

I love this stuff! Oil Pressure and temps look great, even at the low point at 51 psi you have more than enough oil pressure for the RPM being turned at that point. You are off the gas and under braking so there is alot less load on the main and rod bearings than when accelerating, you have no oil starvation issues. Where is the system picking up the Master Cylinder pressur? From the ABS system computer? I'm assuming this connects through the OBD port/CAN Bus for this type of info and only the Oil Pressure and temp come off of analog sensors.
I love my traqmate but I also love this AIM data. Are you able to overlay speed and tach info on video with this system?
PS You need a wing thing!
Steve

You need to download a separate program (RaceRender, TrackVision, to name a couple) to do the overlay. I'm going to do my first one tonight.

I have the oil pressure warning light set for under 30psi and I've never seen it come on save for in the pits after a hot session, gets down around 22-25 in neutral while idling then. I have been told that is normal.
I'm not sure where the sensor is for the master cyl pressure, but the signal is coming off the CANbus. I have the dash tapped into the CAN+ and CAN- lines on the back side of the OBD diagnostic plug-in.

The only "external" sensors I added were the Oil Temp and Oil Pressure, both from the sandwich plate that you recommended. Works great!

 

[ls110]

You need to download a separate program (RaceRender, TrackVision, to name a couple) to do the overlay. I'm going to do my first one tonight.

I have the oil pressure warning light set for under 30psi and I've never seen it come on save for in the pits after a hot session, gets down around 22-25 in neutral while idling then. I have been told that is normal.
I'm not sure where the sensor is for the master cyl pressure, but the signal is coming off the CANbus. I have the dash tapped into the CAN+ and CAN- lines on the back side of the OBD diagnostic plug-in.

The only "external" sensors I added were the Oil Temp and Oil Pressure, both from the sandwich plate that you recommended. Works great!

That is great data you are able to review. I have been trying to get oil temp with my TraqMate and have had minimal luck with the historical data. The Traqmate is great however for controlling the GoPro and overlaying basic info on the video. Be sure to post the overlay you create.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Here is the video, shot with GoPro Hero3, rendered and overlaid with AiM data using RaceRender2.9.

 

[neema]

this is great data! Thanks for sharing. It's good to see that oil temps are stabilized. Like others, I wasn't aware that there was a pickup for master cylinder pressure, but its good to know for purposes of data overlays.

p.s. your car sounds very healthy. This post made my night!

 

[Jimmy Pribble]

this is great data! Thanks for sharing. It's good to see that oil temps are stabilized. Like others, I wasn't aware that there was a pickup for master cylinder pressure, but its good to know for purposes of data overlays.

p.s. your car sounds very healthy. This post made my night!

+1

I'm an AiM nerd, but I guess I overlooked the master cylinder pressure channel! I have been using just the brake light channel to show my braking points. Not bad, but just binary data. D'oh. Thanks for the lesson. The overlay looks great, too. That will be my next step.

In return, I will throw-out a couple of suggestions for things to try. Disregard them if you have already tried them, or if they don't work for you. There are people who believe that one should never ever shuffle-steer, no matter how pretzeled-up your arms get. I am not one of those people. However, I do think shuffle-steering should be limited to times when the wheel moves more than say...90-100 degrees. Before that, it unnecessarily removes sensory and control inputs (your hands) from the car. Maybe try sitting just a bit closer to the wheel and don't take your hands off of 9-and-3, except when you shift or the wheel needs to go past 90 degrees. Learn to love the wheel. If this is just a habit, it might take some practice to change it. If this is deliberate, than ignore me. :-X

Thanks again for the nerdy post. I love this stuff. And good luck with your racing! Cheers.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Thanks guys.

Jimmy my seating position is governed by clutch throw, I'm pretty close to the wheel as-is. I have a longer Sparco wheel hub I MAY try again, but when I ran it on the street the wheel was too close and my elbows would hit the bolsters. I might give it another go with the race seat. I'll keep you posted.

 

[Jimmy Pribble]

Thanks guys.

Jimmy my seating position is governed by clutch throw, I'm pretty close to the wheel as-is. I have a longer Sparco wheel hub I MAY try again, but when I ran it on the street the wheel was too close and my elbows would hit the bolsters. I might give it another go with the race seat. I'll keep you posted.

Now that you say this, I can imagine the problem. Your race seat puts you lower (a factor I wasn't considering), but the wheel doesn't move and is "up in your face." This forces your arms up and out, when it is more comfortable and less tiring to have your arms tucked closer to your body. I bet I would shuffle more in that situation, too. Now that I am picturing this correctly, I'm not sure sitting closer would help. It's just a bad angle. I wonder if any of the other racers adjust their steering shaft or convert to a tilt unit (if there is such a thing available).

 

[ls110]

Here is the video, shot with GoPro Hero3, rendered and overlaid with AiM data using RaceRender2.9.
[youtube]http://youtu.be/13AAVIcOyMU[/youtube]

Drew - Great video, better yet, great driving! I am envious of the W2W racing as my adrenaline was flowing just watching. Does the AIM data tracker control turning on and off your GoPro? How easy was it to sink the data with the video? I like the data overlay better than my TraqMate options.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

John:

No--I had to trim the video, as I turned on the camera in the pits. It took about 5 mins to get it properly synchronized.
AiM has their own video solution that will turn on automatically called DaVID or SmartyCam; but both of those are expensive compared to GoPro and also lower quality video.

I now have my own GoPro Hero3 with the wifi remote trigger that I can velcro to the switch panel, so I can start it very easily while strapped in.

 

[ls110]

The GoPro is hard to beat, and the remote trigger sounds like a good solution. Your mounting location of the camera is excellent as you can see both what you are doing and the track.

 

[2012YellowBoss]

Great stuff Drew, there is a whole world of difference between the AIM and Traqmate. For anyone using the Traqmate be aware it does not sync up to the new Hero 3 units. Found that out the hard way after I bought a Hero 3 to replace the water damaged original.

 

[ls110]

Great stuff Drew, there is a whole world of difference between the AIM and Traqmate. For anyone using the Traqmate be aware it does not sync up to the new Hero 3 units. Found that out the hard way after I bought a Hero 3 to replace the water damaged original.

I too figured that out the hard way.

 

[byronj]

Cool stuff. Thanks for sharing the info.

 

[Roadhouse]

^ ditto, sweet vid too 8)