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TracKey learning

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rpm3dinc said:
ok, but its constantly learning and relearning right? So if I get on it hard then it will remember that and adjust accordingly?

I guess worst case is I reset the ECU and then not worry about it for a little while... but that is a pain to disconnect and reconnect then idle for 5 minutes... Ford should put a "Reset" button in somewhere.. LOL
I wonder if that's why my car starts to choke and cough like it's gonna die after some rather "spirited" track sessions. Hopefully it's learning "track mode" again at that point. I haven't driven on the red key since Road America so the last 225 miles were track miles. Theoretically is there any need for me to reset the PCM when I unload at BIR tonight?
 
Is it just me or is the car really hard to get rolling in first gear with the TrackKey? It's almost like the clutch isn't catching. With the black key it's easy, hell I can even start in 3rd, no issues. But the TrackKey seems to want either almost die when starting in first or you have to give it tons of gas and of course then you spin the tires.
 
ECU "learning" is WAY over-rated and over-emphasized across the internet. Most of the learning is that the ECU can arrive at a target value - be it A/F, timing, etc. by its own understanding of previous adjustments. The fact that it may take an extra second or two (in the worst case) would NOT be noticeable in 99% of the cases. "Learning" is part of the ECU NOT because it is trying to adapt to individual users or driving habits - but rather the ECU is intended to have the ability to run the car over the lifetime of the engine and components. This is why there is learning. There are rare exceptions.
 
CoolTechLLC said:
ECU "learning" is WAY over-rated and over-emphasized across the internet. Most of the learning is that the ECU can arrive at a target value - be it A/F, timing, etc. by its own understanding of previous adjustments. The fact that it may take an extra second or two (in the worst case) would NOT be noticeable in 99% of the cases. "Learning" is part of the ECU NOT because it is trying to adapt to individual users or driving habits - but rather the ECU is intended to have the ability to run the car over the lifetime of the engine and components. This is why there is learning. There are rare exceptions.
Appreciate you chiming in as I was hoping that someone that would know the answer could confirm or deny this. I skipped the "relearn" at the track today and just ran it.
 
rpm3dinc said:
ok, but its constantly learning and relearning right? So if I get on it hard then it will remember that and adjust accordingly?

I guess worst case is I reset the ECU and then not worry about it for a little while... but that is a pain to disconnect and reconnect then idle for 5 minutes... Ford should put a "Reset" button in somewhere.. LOL

As was mentioned after your post, it does not instantly and radically change. The learning is gradual and intended to compensate for engine changes (as well as driving conditions). If you have putted around for a week or so, you can't reverse that history by one 1/4 mile pass. How many? Probably can't do it with only WOT history (see below).

My GUESSES: The track key program might give more apparent changing because it is on the edge of meeting EPA and driveability goals so learning would seem more drastic. I would also guess that adaptive learning could have been turned off, but that might have resulted in more issues as the engine aged from use. The safe thing for Ford to do was to leave it in there and let the ECU make adjustments towards more conservative A/F ratio and timing to protect the motor, cats and O2 sensors. I would guess because the learning band is relatively narrow, the track key programming will always be noticeably more aggressive than the standard program (black key). Finally, based on earlier Ford ECU programming, I believe that there is virtually no effect of or on adaptive learning in WOT for either key. However they set the WOT fuel, timing and protections (coolant temp, air intake temp, etc.) that is what it is- safe sided on the rich side. Unless things have drastically changed adaptive learning is a closed loop function (after warm up and not WOT).

I make these quesses based on a little 5.0 EFI dyno and programming efforts on modified motors and strokers. I am no guru, but I like them. The technology is evolving so the programming sophistication is greater, but the reasons for adaptive learning and WOT (open loop) programming are still the same as far as I can see.

Before I run on the track, I'll reset the ECU. Seriously considering installing a battery quick disconnect terminal switch to make this easier. The one with the green knob. i really don't like the red key in town as much as the standard program. I carry the red key in case someone wants to hear the idle. I want my clutch to last a good long time and I don't do any stop light exibitions. On highway trips, more MPG is OK with me, but if it's a twisty cruise, out comes Old Red. The car is a trip with either key. Embarrassing the LS guys is reserved for the track where there are plenty of witnesses :D
Mike
 
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My Challenger has a fuse that can be pulled for 30 seconds to reset the adaptives. No need to disconnect the battery and screw up your clock, etc. Does the Boss have such a fuse?
 
The throttle mapping on my Boss was getting rougher and difficult to drive smoothly on the street. I noticed it with the silver and red keys and was even noticeable on track under aggressive driving conditions. I decided to give this a try and on Friday I removed my ground cable for 20+ minutes and then started my car from cold and let it idle for 10+ minutes before touching the throttle. To my surprise using the silver key my car was much smoother at partial throttle openings. I then tried the red key and the same thing. The red key is still rougher than the silver key but both are noticeably improved. I'm not sure if the lopey idle is any better but it might be. YMMV
 

Dark Horse

2012 BOSS 302 LS 541
Has anyone tried this yet? Any success?

07SGT0547 said:
1. Turn on the key but do not start your car.
2. Wait until the dinging sound is gone.
3. Press the gas pedal slowly for 3 seconds until it hits the floor.
4. Release the gas pedal slowly for 3 seconds until fully released.
5. Count to 6 seconds after that.
6. Turn off the key.
 
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I've noticed that my red key is getting more ragged. First gear starts are getting very bucking, to the point where I almost always start in 2nd gear. I even went back to the silver key for driving around town because the red key was getting so temperamental. I may have to try the battery disconnect and see if it improves. Would be nice if there was a fuse to pull instead ::)
 

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