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TracKey learning

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I drive around town exclusively with the red key. And lately I have felt that it has become a bit sluggish, or less responsive when I punch it. Im going to disconnect the battery, let the silver key idle for 5 minutes then try the red key again and see if I can tell a difference.. This will be interesting... anyone else feel the red key has been sluggish?
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
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Nope - all I use is the red key. Maybe if you use the red key on the street it 'learns' for that kind of driving and tames itself a bit ?
 
PeteInCT said:
Nope - all I use is the red key. Maybe if you use the red key on the street it 'learns' for that kind of driving and tames itself a bit ?
That's essentially what they're saying. If true, it sounds like you need to go through the reset process before track days.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
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I guess this could be a possibility, however I'd find it hard to believe that the ford calibration engineers that did the work didn't think to disable this already. Moreover, he said his buddy is a sales manager; I'm having a hard time remembering when any sales staff person was ever correct about anything ever said about this vehicle.
 
fduboss302 said:
Is this sluggish ness all the time, at partial throttle, at WOT? ???
For me at least ive noticed when "launching" or accelerating quickly in first or second gear that when I punch the throttle it seems to not react as quickly as when I first purchased the car/redkey.
 
ArizonaGT said:
I guess this could be a possibility, however I'd find it hard to believe that the ford calibration engineers that did the work didn't think to disable this already. Moreover, he said his buddy is a sales manager; I'm having a hard time remembering when any sales staff person was ever correct about anything ever said about this vehicle.
Good points. I can't say I've noticed any differences in TK. I do plan to run both keys this weekend at BIR though after LateApex's post about ECTs being 10-12 degrees lower with the silver key.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
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reakhavok said:
For me at least ive noticed when "launching" or accelerating quickly in first or second gear that when I punch the throttle it seems to not react as quickly as when I first purchased the car/redkey.

The car is pretty benign below 3000RPM with TK...but after that, watch out.
 
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went back to the silver key today for the first time in months. the surge-yness of the red key was getting annoying, no waiting just drove it was smooth as silk. i do miss the idle.
 
First reaction "No way this is happening".

Then I thought, absolutely it could happen as the ECU over time will learn and adjust its maps. A better title for the thread may be "ECU learning TracKey?"
 
OK, today I pulled the negative battery terminal off for a couple hours....put it back on and started the car with the regular key, let it idle for 5 min. Shut down and put tracKey in. Took her for a spin. 98 deg outside, balmy AZ weather.

...............The Monster is BACK!!!!! Throttle response is more crisp, power feels strong, a lot more crackle from the exhaust (no restrictor plates installed).


I do agree with the learning of the ECU. My BMW would do the same thing. Looks like I'll keep an 8mm wrench handy and reset every couple weeks to keep the beast awake.
 
So if you reset by unhooking one battery cable and then reconnecting and then idling for 5 min with the black Key, the Track Key will reset itself to when it was first installed? How long does this last though until it learns again? The Black Key doesn't learn but the Red one does? Not sure I completely understand this. Though I do notice I don't have the massive "Jake Brake" noise and deceleration like I used to with the Red Key, and that was only about 40-50 miles ago (as I only have 120 miles on the car now). So driving roughly 50 miles on the TrackKey around town in 45 mph traffic or slower "Dumbed down the TrackKey" automatically?
 
The ECU is adaptive with both keys. When you reset by disconnecting the battery, the ECU goes back to its original programs (both stock and track). The learning is based on optimizing things like drivability, fuel economy and emissions. If you only use the track key on the track, you probably won't need to reset the ECU since it is running on a separate program and it won't be getting operation that causes it to back off its aggressive fuel, ignition timing, valve timing, etc. The learning is continuous and gradual. The time it takes to notice changes depends on the type driving you do. It can certainly be noticeable in 50 miles of putting around.

Mike
 
ok, but its constantly learning and relearning right? So if I get on it hard then it will remember that and adjust accordingly?

I guess worst case is I reset the ECU and then not worry about it for a little while... but that is a pain to disconnect and reconnect then idle for 5 minutes... Ford should put a "Reset" button in somewhere.. LOL
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
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I'd like to understand why Ford would have the TK learn like the black key. It should always be in 'kick butt' mode based on the fuel capabilities.
 
PeteInCT said:
I'd like to understand why Ford would have the TK learn like the black key. It should always be in 'kick butt' mode based on the fuel capabilities.
I agree. I have noticed TK seems to be smoother than it was and I'm getting less jake brake on decel. I'll give this a try and see if it makes any difference.
 
My DD (ie Work Truck) is a Nissan TITAN and it has a similar ECU Learning Curve "issue"... However, there is a known procedure that uses a series of Key ON & OFF + Gas Pedal Applications that will reset the ECU without having to disconnect the battery, etc. I typically do it when I clean & re-oil my K&N Filter...

And FWIW, I found a similar set of instructions for the Ford ECU on another Mustang Forum:

1. Turn on the key but do not start your car.
2. Wait until the dinging sound is gone.
3. Press the gas pedal slowly for 3 seconds until it hits the floor.
4. Release the gas pedal slowly for 3 seconds until fully released.
5. Count to 6 seconds after that.
6. Turn off the key.

Can't try them on my BOSS, as it is still in the Shop getting the Engine Replaced... But if I ever notice the car start to feel "sluggish" with either key, then I am going to give this a shot...
 

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