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Transmission oil change

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darreng505 said:
Sorry to piggyback on this thread, but its germane.

What oil type/weight etc. should I use to replace the OEM fluid in my 2012 for high performance use? I hear Redline MTL is recommended? What weight etc?

I used the RL MTL although it has been de-certified by redline.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
I use Redline MTL as well
http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-50204-Synthetic-Transmission/dp/B000CPCBEG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342030558&sr=8-1&keywords=redline+mtl
 
lbp said:
BossDuke said:
So after all the BS, when you put it in neutral you were able to add another quart? That is what "figured it out" meant? Why would sliding the gear set to neutral increase the sump capacity by a quart?

Can't make sense of how the transmission internals would cause such an effect. Any techs on here to explain why it works this way?

I interpreted the instruction to put it in neutral as possibly part of the action of placing it on the lift (though I can't see any reason for that either).

I don't know the number of types of transmissions I've refilled, but it has to be dozens. None of them had such a requirement to get the proper amount of fluid in. I've never put a transmission in neutral to raise it on a lift as I want it to be immoveable while I'm positioning the arms. If I want it in neutral, I put it there once I've got it on the arms. I'd rate those instructions from Ford as D- for explanation (not procedure).

Am I the only one scratching their head on this one?

Mike

Yes, - The only thing I can think is that neutral moves the linkage in such a way as to allow the fill tube I used & its flow unobstructed passage..

The only thing that bothered me about the FOMOCO doc was that it instructs to fill "within 1/8 in." of the fill hole; then later it mentions fill capacity as 2.7 QT.

However, when I fill the trans, to get it up to the bottom of the fill hole is more than 2.6 qt. (2.7 L.), and I added up to 150cc more than 2.7 L before stopping..

I'm still on factory fill, but in my experience with other cars, never put more than recommended in a tranny or diff. They are sealed, and the fluid when it expands can bust seals if there is too much. My mechanic "did me a favor" by over filling the tranny on my track car and it blew out the shaft seal... and the Boss diffs with the breathers have been puking for some people on the track. Unless the trans has a breather, then it can just puke off the excess, but I don't recall it having one.
 
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CaliMR said:
lbp said:
BossDuke said:
So after all the BS, when you put it in neutral you were able to add another quart? That is what "figured it out" meant? Why would sliding the gear set to neutral increase the sump capacity by a quart?

Can't make sense of how the transmission internals would cause such an effect. Any techs on here to explain why it works this way?

I interpreted the instruction to put it in neutral as possibly part of the action of placing it on the lift (though I can't see any reason for that either).

I don't know the number of types of transmissions I've refilled, but it has to be dozens. None of them had such a requirement to get the proper amount of fluid in. I've never put a transmission in neutral to raise it on a lift as I want it to be immoveable while I'm positioning the arms. If I want it in neutral, I put it there once I've got it on the arms. I'd rate those instructions from Ford as D- for explanation (not procedure).

Am I the only one scratching their head on this one?

Mike

Yes, - The only thing I can think is that neutral moves the linkage in such a way as to allow the fill tube I used & its flow unobstructed passage..

The only thing that bothered me about the FOMOCO doc was that it instructs to fill "within 1/8 in." of the fill hole; then later it mentions fill capacity as 2.7 QT.

However, when I fill the trans, to get it up to the bottom of the fill hole is more than 2.6 qt. (2.7 L.), and I added up to 150cc more than 2.7 L before stopping..

I'm still on factory fill, but in my experience with other cars, never put more than recommended in a tranny or diff. They are sealed, and the fluid when it expands can bust seals if there is too much. My mechanic "did me a favor" by over filling the tranny on my track car and it blew out the shaft seal... and the Boss diffs with the breathers have been puking for some people on the track. Unless the trans has a breather, then it can just puke off the excess, but I don't recall it having one.

Yup, Agreed..
 
I'm glad I'm not the only one confused by this. I just changed the fluid in my 2012, and it took all 2.75 quarts even though I'm 99.99% sure the trans was in 1st gear at the time, since I drove up on ramps first, then jacked up the rear afterwards. I followed Fat Boss' idea of inserting a long vinyl tube into the fill hole. Considering I could stick the tubing pretty far into the hole, I don't see how having the trans in gear would block the fill hole.

Also, the factory drawing shows a vent tube at the top of the transmission, which should relieve pressure (and fluid) if it is overfilled. At least it should :-\

I used Redline MTL (like I have for years in all my cars) and it really seemed to help the shifting action.
 
That seems logical. I've always been an MTL fan. Still waiting for an explanation of it being "decertified" by RedLine?

Mike
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
BossDuke said:
That seems logical. I've always been an MTL fan. Still waiting for an explanation of it being "decertified" by RedLine?

Mike
I emailed them and they said its because ford switched to the DS fluid and they dont have a fluid to match the specs. MTL is between the factory fill and the TBS fill if that helps you.
 
344
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Bossman2012 said:
I'm glad I'm not the only one confused by this. I just changed the fluid in my 2012, and it took all 2.75 quarts even though I'm 99.99% sure the trans was in 1st gear at the time, since I drove up on ramps first, then jacked up the rear afterwards. I followed Fat Boss' idea of inserting a long vinyl tube into the fill hole. Considering I could stick the tubing pretty far into the hole, I don't see how having the trans in gear would block the fill hole.

Also, the factory drawing shows a vent tube at the top of the transmission, which should relieve pressure (and fluid) if it is overfilled. At least it should :-\

I used Redline MTL (like I have for years in all my cars) and it really seemed to help the shifting action.

Did you get any overflow on the 2.75qt. from the fill hole??
 
Did you get any overflow on the 2.75qt. from the fill hole??
[/quote]

No, I did not get overflow from putting in 2.75 quarts. I followed the suggestion on here, and poured out exactly 8 ounces out of the third bottle into a separate container, so I was able to add exactly 2.75 quarts. Then for good measure (since I can't leave well enough alone), I put a few more ounces in (maybe 3) and it started to overflow from the fill hole. The way I figure it, 3 mm or 1/8 inch is next to nothing. Besides, who's going to be able to measure 3 mm below the fill hole?? I let it fully dribble out the fill hole, put back in the plug, and called it a night. When you look at all the expansion room in the transmission case above the fill hole, I just can't see how 3 mm of fluid will hurt anything. That's my rationalization, anyways.
 
Interesting, I will have to remember that when I change my Tranny Fluid in about 400 miles (First Fluid Change I always do at 500 miles). And from this thread I also gather that most are using Redline MTL, but what about Royal Purple's Tranny Fluid? Is it better, same, doesn't really matter?

Some have said it matters greatly what Tranny fluid you use (as far as brand), and others can't seem to notice a difference...

THanks!
 
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steveespo said:
I have been using Redline MTL for the past 6000 miles but am thinking about going back to the Ford Dual Clutch XT QDC. No aftermarket supplier has the Ford spec covered and honestly the QDC performed pretty well when I had it in last season.
Steve

Steve,
Any problems noted with the MTL?
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
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Cookeville TN
No MTL has been OK and I really don't have any shiting, noise or lock out issues but the MTL hasn't been an earth shattering improvement either. One thing to note is those of us who do track work really need to change the trans and diff fluids every 10 track hours. Breakdown of viscosity and additives gets accelerated due to the high stress and heat that these parts experience during high speed high horsepower running.
Steve
 
344
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steveespo said:
No MTL has been OK and I really don't have any shiting, noise or lock out issues but the MTL hasn't been an earth shattering improvement either. One thing to note is those of us who do track work really need to change the trans and diff fluids every 10 track hours. Breakdown of viscosity and additives gets accelerated due to the high stress and heat that these parts experience during high speed high horsepower running.
Steve

My impression of both MTL and Lightweight shockproof oil (for the diff) is that they are *much* lighter than the oem stuff.
Probably a good tip to change our every 10hrs.
- Do you think the 10hr. rule holds true for the diff as well?
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
3,850
1,477
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
Differential on these cars seem to creat a lot of heat as evidenced by the venting of fluid a lot of us have experienced, Fords recommendation in the Boss track supplement and the fact that it's a 75W140 full synthetic to begin with. Also note the track pack for the new GT 500 has trans and differential oil coolers, pinion bearing improvement etc. I just had to change the axle bearings and seal cause of a weep on the right side. I've been running 8.8 axles since 1987 and didn't see so many issues as we have today over the prior 20. It's not the axle strength it's the frictional heat generated by the high speed of the ring gear and the amount of continuous torque we are feeding through during track events. These cars perform like rGT race cars did in the late 80s
Steve
 
344
0
steveespo said:
Differential on these cars seem to creat a lot of heat as evidenced by the venting of fluid a lot of us have experienced, Fords recommendation in the Boss track supplement and the fact that it's a 75W140 full synthetic to begin with. Also note the track pack for the new GT 500 has trans and differential oil coolers, pinion bearing improvement etc. I just had to change the axle bearings and seal cause of a weep on the right side. I've been running 8.8 axles since 1987 and didn't see so many issues as we have today over the prior 20. It's not the axle strength it's the frictional heat generated by the high speed of the ring gear and the amount of continuous torque we are feeding through during track events. These cars perform like rGT race cars did in the late 80s
Steve

Interesting.
I was told that these units actually do not need the friction additive.
- Would you agree with that?
(your posting here is much appreciated) ;)
 

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