Transmission Warranty Work Process

[F.D. Sako]

Hey guys,

I'm getting ready to take the car in to the dealer for some transmission work. I know some of you guys have gotten transmission repairs and replacements under warranty. So, I wanted to know what Ford's procedure is to get mechanical repairs approved for warranty.

I want to make sure the dealer follows the correct process to save myself a few unnecessary trips. When I had the radio screen crack, I had to tell the tech what to do (take pictures and send it in to Ford), or else they were going to make me take multiple trips.

Any advice will be appreciated!

 

[dabossinnne]

Sort of off the subject, but, wow...what it is about these dealers where you about have to literally watch what they're doing and supervise while they work on your car? Think I'd find another dealer whose service dept knows what the heck they're doing.

 

[azazell64]

Hey guys,

I'm getting ready to take the car in to the dealer for some transmission work. I know some of you guys have gotten transmission repairs and replacements under warranty. So, I wanted to know what Ford's procedure is to get mechanical repairs approved for warranty.

I want to make sure the dealer follows the correct process to save myself a few unnecessary trips. When I had the radio screen crack, I had to tell the tech what to do (take pictures and send it in to Ford), or else they were going to make me take multiple trips.

Any advice will be appreciated!

For mine when they opened it up, I had the service manager come for a ride, see how clunky it was. Booked it in, tore it apart, sent the blocker rings and synchros to Ford. Never heard anything back aside from the fact that it shifted almost the same and Ford Canada claimed it was just "the nature of the beast". Needless to say changing the fluid and putting in the additive contributed the most to the "repair". If you can, don't be around when they open up the transmission as it is a scarey sight. The halves of the transmission need an insane amount of pressure to separate them, upwards of 17,000 lbs of pressure. Enough so that the tech thought that the case itself was going to give. Anyway, hope this helped a bit.

 

[F.D. Sako]

Well, I went ahead and contacted Rev Auto. Will be getting their Stage 1 treatment along with a McLeod RST clutch and aluminum flywheel. Might as well upgrade while at it, since there's no extra labor charge.

 

[azazell64]

Well, I went ahead and contacted Rev Auto. Will be getting their Stage 1 treatment along with a McLeod RST clutch and aluminum flywheel. Might as well upgrade while at it, since there's no extra labor charge.

The other things I did while I was in there to save a step were install the ARP flywheel bolts and the CJ tone ring. Not sure if you're interested in doing the same. Saved me taking the transmission out later.

 

[F.D. Sako]

I did a quick search on the arp bolts and couldn't find it. Would you happen to have a part no. or a link for the arp flywheel bolts?

I asked Rev Auto about the CJ ring, they mentioned they've replaced it on their cars with no difference, so I'm slipping the pulse ring.

 

[TMSBOSS]

I did a quick search on the arp bolts and couldn't find it. Would you happen to have a part no. or a link for the arp flywheel bolts?

I asked Rev Auto about the CJ ring, they mentioned they've replaced it on their cars with no difference, so I'm slipping the pulse ring.

ARP Manual Transmission Flywheel Bolt Set 5.0L 2011-2014
http://www.cjponyparts.com/arp-manual-transmission-flywheel-bolt-set-5-0l-2011-2014/p/HW3128/

CJ Pony and other have the ARP Bolts

 

[F.D. Sako]

Thanks for the link!
I had searched American Muscle and some other vendors, but they find it. Just ordered it from CJ. Got a JPC clutch line on the way as well, is there anything else I can upgrade while I'm on a spending spree?

 

[Roadhouse]

I added a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing while everything was out... Did the CJ pulse ring, ARP bolts, and SS clutch line too.

 

[2012-Boss]

Well, I went ahead and contacted Rev Auto. Will be getting their Stage 1 treatment along with a McLeod RST clutch and aluminum flywheel. Might as well upgrade while at it, since there's no extra labor charge.

I got my car back from Rev Auto this past weekend with an RXT. I found the transmission to be notchey at first. It did not grind, but also did not shift smoothly. I was kind of expecting this with the brass sliders and pins replacing the nylon parts. Old Muncie and Top Loader four speeds are the same way when you get them rebuilt with new wear items. They need some break in to get that slick shift feel. I have about 200 miles on the transmission, and it shifts great.

You will have to relearn how to work the clutch. First, the new clutch is more like an on / off switch when new. Second, you will have to slip the clutch more than you are used to with the aluminum flywheel. As the clutch breaks in it is easier to modulate. There is no getting around the fact that the aluminum flywheel needs more slip.

I am not trying to discourage, but just want you to know what to expect when you pick the car up. If you do a lot of in traffic driving, I would consider the steel flywheel.

I do not daily drive my car and am happy with the Aluminum flywheel. Maybe Steve Espo will pop in and give his opinion of the RST with a steel flywheel.

 

[F.D. Sako]

Thanks for the feedback Steve!

I actually called Rev Auto this morning and changed my order from aluminum to steel flywheel, based on a handful of reviews on forums and understanding how flywheels work. I do drive the car every weekend, and usually get stuck in traffic on occasional trips to work. So, I'm hoping I've made the right decisions so far on parts.

Could the notchiness be fluid related, what fluid did you go with? Then again you may have not experienced the notchiness before the rebuilt using the same fluid. I'm sticking with the BG stuff for now.

I also remember reading the clutch pedal takes less effort with the RXT/RST clutches compared to the stock setup. Do you still have the pedal spring in place? Trying to see if I need to remove mine, once I get the car back.

Sorry for all the questions, I think the person who answers the phones at Rev Auto is already tired of me calling them every other day ;D

Hopefully, Steve will chime in with his experience with the RST/steel combo. I'm almost certain I've asked him with this question at the track before :

 

[VoodooBoss]

I would install the RST and steel flywheel. The twin disc clutch will be a lot lighter feeling and removing the helper spring will make it feel like stock. I have the RXT and I think it's overkill and took a few thousand miles for the engagement to smooth out. I would not install the RXT again. The RST should be fine and hopefully it's not as grabby plus it's less expensive.

 

[steveespo]

I am happy with the RST/McLeod steel flywheel combo still. It is still lighter than stock, and is broken in so no longer like a light switch. Still has a "rattle" if you try and lug the car down below 1600 rpm so I try not to do that, sometimes lazy on the street. I also put BG Synchroshift II in and it works fine, no dramatic improvement over Ford DCT but it's cheaper and I change fluids a lot. Have not had any issues with pedal sticking to floor or high rpm lockout, but I never did before either, except when my stock clutch threw a spring at Summit Point last fall.

I like the idea of twin disc clutches for track cars, just more surface area to provide more capacity without using monster pressure plate springs that will stress the throwout bearing and put higher thrust loads through the crankshaft.
RST gets my vote.
Steve

 

[2012-Boss]

The transmission is running Motorcraft QDC dual clutch fluid. My transmission smoothed out with a few miles on it. I was just trying to warn you to expect to have to break it in some. You are replacing broken in slippery nylon / plastic pieces with brass. The new pieces need to wear in a bit. It is just like comparing a brand new MGW shifter vs one that has 1000 miles on it.

I have not removed my helper spring but am going to do so this weekend.

I think once you break both the clutch and transmission in you will be very happy.

 

[F.D. Sako]

Quick update.
Received a call from Rev Auto today. They've taken the car out for a test drive and experienced the same difficulties when shifting. The culprit, a broken clutch disc! Some part of the disc has broken, with signs of the disc dragging on the flywheel and pressure plate, which explains the occasional jolting and shuttering. They've also taken the transmission apart and everything in there looks new, which is a big relief!! I'm still going forward with their stage 1 rebuild while the transmission's apart.

Since there's no internal damage, the rebuild will cost less than what I had expected.. So, I'm going ahead and upgrading to a single piece aluminum drive shaft as well : (a prime example of being insane and justifying additional mods)

 

[TMSBOSS]

More proof that MT-82 problems are not all related to the trans itself.

Time to shop for a replacement clutch for my Boss. :

 

[808Boss]

Quick update.
Received a call from Rev Auto today. They've taken the car out for a test drive and experienced the same difficulties when shifting. The culprit, a broken clutch disc! Some part of the disc has broken, with signs of the disc dragging on the flywheel and pressure plate, which explains the occasional jolting and shuttering. They've also taken the transmission apart and everything in there looks new, which is a big relief!! I'm still going forward with their stage 1 rebuild while the transmission's apart.

Since there's no internal damage, the rebuild will cost less than what I had expected.. So, I'm going ahead and upgrading to a single piece aluminum drive shaft as well : (a prime example of being insane and justifying additional mods)

I like your thinking. Just change it all out while everything is out anyways. Makes it easier.. When I did my clutch, I should have just did the driveshaft at the same time... Instead I did it(driveshaft) a month later and it was just more work...

 

[VoodooBoss]

Time to shop for a replacement clutch for my Boss. :

Done. McLeod RST. ;D

 

[TMSBOSS]

Done. McLeod RST. ;D

Rick

That part I have done. LOL

Looking for deals/discounts. ;D

 

[F.D. Sako]

Just got the car back today. Before I provide my first impressions, here's what Rev Auto did to the car.

-McLeod RST and lightened steel flyhweel
-JPC SS braided clutch line
-APR flywheel bolts
-Rev Auto stage 1 transmission rebuild
-Dynotech aluminum driveshaft

First thing I noticed was the pedal feel and the clutch engagement point. The clutch engages pretty high on the pedal, and it feels pretty light compared to stock. Now, I have to make sure I pull my foot off the pedal and not "rely" on the pedal force to push my foot back. Also, because the pedal feel is lighter, I do feel the clutch pedal spring now, which it seems to give an "inconsistent" pedal feel. I'm going to give it some time before I decide on removing the spring.

Since I also changed the clutch line, Rev Auto mentioned there may be some air in the system, so I also experienced the pedal sticking during the drive home, which is never a good feeling , but hoping that fixes itself after a few drives to work in DMV traffic.

Other things I noticed were smother acceleration and deceleration. I no longer experience the clunk from the stock driveshaft, and the car accelerates a little easier when in 5th/6th gear on the highway, which I'm guessing is due to the lighter flywheel and driveshaft combo.

Based on reading a few threads, I was concerned about a loud chatter when engaging the clutch. The noise is not loud and is pretty tolerable, by me at least. So I'm no longer worried about the twin disk chatter during street driving anymore.

I think I also have to play with the MGW shifter reverse lock, seems like it's out of alignment now and getting into reverse is somewhat tough.

I'll post a picture of the broken clutch disc and damaged pressure plate when I get the chance.