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Upgrading the stock hydraulic lines

ace72ace

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I'm trying to do upgrades this year while I have the time and the help of a willing master mechanic so that next year when I try going the track, I'll just need a 2nd set of wheels/tires and brake pads. I took cloud9's recommendation of the stainless Goodridge lines, and got them for under $200 shipped. I then found out in reading on another forum that the clutch & the brake fluid share the same reservoir. That made me think, if I replaced the stock reinforced rubber brake lines with the stainless lines, would that put added pressure on the existing rubber clutch line? Rather than worry about this, I figured it would be just as easy to upgrade that line too while I was at it, especially if I'm already going to be bleeding the brakes after those lines go in. Ordered the JHR line from Lethal.

Just thought I'd throw this out there for feedback on the subject...

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PeteInCT

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The SS lines will make a significant difference in pedal feel. Much more solid, makes it easier to modulated brakes when trail braking, etc.
 
I have not upgraded to SS brake lines yet but when I do I'll also install the JHR SS clutch line.
 

ace72ace

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PeteInCT said:
The SS lines will make a significant difference in pedal feel. Much more solid, makes it easier to modulated brakes when trail braking, etc.

Agreed, that's precisely why I wanted to follow cloud9's upgrade, for the firmer pedal feel and solid braking performance with upgraded pads and fluid. Specifically I was curious about thoughts on upgrading only the 4 brake lines, and leaving the clutch line stock. Is there some valve or design feature that prevents varying line pressure in either system from affecting the other? Are there situations on the track where you would be clutching and and braking at the same time? If so, would upgrading only 1 system's line(s) adversely affect the other over time?
 

ace72ace

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I'm going to let my buddy who is a real track rat (and instructor) take my car for a spin. I will record some video of his overall impressions of the both the clutch and brake 'feel' before I install the mods. As he has 100x more experience than I do, I think he'd be able to accurately describe the differences, and maybe provide comparisons that I just couldn't make. Then an 'after upgrade' test drive.

I knew being on this forum was gonna put a drain on my wallet, now I'm getting Sullivan pedals too...
 

steveespo

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fduboss302 said:
ace what was the part number/where did you get the SS lines? My shop contact said Goodridge didn't know about lines for the Boss...
Same lines as any S197 Mustang 2005+.
The clutch line only shares reservoir with brakes, does not see brake pressure otherwise strange things would happen when you brake and clutch at the same time. What they also share is fluid temperature so the cooler you keep the fluid the better performance for both systems. Goodridge lines as a good step up, not earth shattering to me as I liked the pedal feel with the Boss lines and Motul RBF 600.
Steve
 

ace72ace

Zaino, I put that $hit on everything
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Got 'em for $197 free ship from www.nopi.com, seems like a good place to do business. I wasn't sure about the correct part # either so I gave them a call. Very helpful, the guy put me on hold and called Goodridge rep directly to verify they had the ones I needed for the '13 Boss. If you do end up calling them, tell them the guy that just ordered the race red Boss referred you. Guy I spoke with sounded like a 20 something year old 'kid' (no disrespect, just that I'm old enough to be his father) that thought the Boss was great and wished me well. I had to email them to get the tracking info, and when I did I included 1 pic.

Total $197.78

Thank You for your order

NOPI

1-800-277-6674

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ext 207 - Bobby
 
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This was my first mod.One bit of caution,the ATE Super Blue will stain you master cylinder reservoir.I use the ATE 200 amber, a great product.
 
as gww52 said, I alternate between blue and amber (it is the same fluid) on my track car so it is easier to see when it is all out but the blue will stain a bit. Takes several flushes to get it pretty much gone. On the Boss I am just going to use amber unless I end up making it my main track car which admittedly is a hard temptation to resist.
 
steveespo said:
fduboss302 said:
ace what was the part number/where did you get the SS lines? My shop contact said Goodridge didn't know about lines for the Boss...
Same lines as any S197 Mustang 2005+.
The clutch line only shares reservoir with brakes, does not see brake pressure otherwise strange things would happen when you brake and clutch at the same time. What they also share is fluid temperature so the cooler you keep the fluid the better performance for both systems. Goodridge lines as a good step up, not earth shattering to me as I liked the pedal feel with the Boss lines and Motul RBF 600.
Steve

would someone please post the clutch bleed proceedure. I have read it on other sites but can't find it. Thanks,
 

ace72ace

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gww52 said:
This was my first mod.One bit of caution,the ATE Super Blue will stain you master cylinder reservoir.I use the ATE 200 amber, a great product.

You mean I don't have pay extra to tint my reservoir Ford Blue?! Cool. I plan on alternating between the blue & amber between flushes. Approximately how much of the can is required for a full 'normal' flush? 1/3? 1/2?
 

steveespo

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ace72ace said:
gww52 said:
This was my first mod.One bit of caution,the ATE Super Blue will stain you master cylinder reservoir.I use the ATE 200 amber, a great product.

You mean I don't have pay extra to tint my reservoir Ford Blue?! Cool. I plan on alternating between the blue & amber between flushes. Approximately how much of the can is required for a full 'normal' flush? 1/3? 1/2?

1 liter will get you a good flush of fresh fluid, suck out old fluid with turkey baster and pump fluid through each bleeder until you see new color for 2 pumps. Make sure you top off after each wheel, sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF. It will be 1.5 if you flush/drive and engage ABS a few times and pump clutch 40 times. Then drain Master Cylinder again, and bleed 3 full brake pumps at each wheel again
 

ace72ace

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What is the advantage of using twice as much fluid employing the 2nd method you described? I guess I will snag another can when I'm at the store picking up the redline fluid for the gear box.
 

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