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Vented Fender

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TMSBOSS said:
Nice!!!

How much weight does it take off the nose?

We missed you at Summerfest!

I think 20lbs both sides.

Yeah, I've been fighting some nagging tendonitus in my shoulder that won't go away. Hope to see you guys out there soon. When I get the green light I'll post my schedule.
 
DG#56 said:
Just thought I'd share my new vented fender (well, new if you're not on my facebook feed). I have a closer pic somewhere if you want it.
And it's functional, but I still gotta cut the splash guard and mess it too. These are the trufiber fenders.
You have the coolest most DTM looking Boss 302 of anyone I've seen and its all functional first. That makes it even better and more bling The vented fender I would consider mandatory. Sure would be nice if these baked that feature in.

If you get time unrelated to this thread can you answer some of these questions about your car? Many thanks!

1. do you have all lexan windows? they look good and based on bracing, light.
2. where did you get the naca duct 1/4 window? its bad ass and where is the air going? are you venting it out the back for aero?
3. do you have cf doors yet?
4. what do the strakes at the top do? I assume they break up the air preventing the wicked vacuum normally there.
5. what type of ducting is behind the fog lights?
6. are you going to vent the tops of the wheel wells to reduce drag and lift? i'd like to also and only the K&N car has done it so far.
7. Is your airbox sealed from the top now to stop it gulping for air from the vacuum of the first two hood vents? I have that hood and had to build an air box you can see the fuel trims taking away fuel about 100mph at WOT. Not much but its there.
8. no brake duct tubes?
9. full dash I see.. did you leave the AC and heater system in? or did this start as a boss 302S/R?
10. I've seen a few different ways to construct homemade floor pans and rear splitters if you are OK with sheet metal. First two feet after factory front lower splitter are critical to keep continuous. venting
into the hood area will make the tiger hood work! and then you can also dump it towards your super cool new wheel well venting.
11. Obviously the best of the best would be to put huge skirts on it (like the new Ford GT le mans) and then actually put coke bottle venture shapes in the entire length getting much deeper and more open at the rear exit of the diffuser.. but there is NO room down there unless you take off the gas tank evap off.
 
twistedneck said:
You have the coolest most DTM looking Boss 302 of anyone I've seen and its all functional first. That makes it even better and more bling The vented fender I would consider mandatory. Sure would be nice if these baked that feature in.
Thanks. I was actually building it like a GT3. I even have a big Blancpain decal on the wing. ;)

If you get time unrelated to this thread can you answer some of these questions about your car? Many thanks!

1. do you have all lexan windows? they look good and based on bracing, light.
Yes.
2. where did you get the naca duct 1/4 window? its bad ass and where is the air going? are you venting it out the back for aero?
I think Agent 47. Right now it just dumps inside the cabin, but I'm about to mount a helmet blower near one for fresh air.

3. do you have cf doors yet?
I wish. I saw them on Chicane 23 once a while ago, but haven't found any since.

4. what do the strakes at the top do? I assume they break up the air preventing the wicked vacuum normally there.
Those are vortex generators (the fins on the roof?) and the (proven) theory is they allow air attachment on the rear foil at lower speeds.
If you're talking about the tiny louvers on the rear fenders. I recently added those for the same reason - air attachment. But that one is
a theory on my part still.

5. what type of ducting is behind the fog lights?
3" 600F+ aircraft silicone tubing

6. are you going to vent the tops of the wheel wells to reduce drag and lift? i'd like to also and only the K&N car has done it so far.
That's the idea up front. In back, not sure

7. Is your airbox sealed from the top now to stop it gulping for air from the vacuum of the first two hood vents? I have that hood and had to build an air box you can see the fuel trims taking away fuel about 100mph at WOT. Not much but its there.
No, but its on my list.

8. no brake duct tubes?
They're not connected in this picture. I got new ones and they haven't gone on yet. I even have rear brake ducts. I had a guy fab some.
They need to go on too.

9. full dash I see.. did you leave the AC and heater system in? or did this start as a boss 302S/R?
No AC but it has a blower (which it needs to defrost inside window when its chilly or raining). It's only the dash skin (no 35lb mounting brace etc), its been completely gutted, stripped and re-wired with just the essentials.I have a guy whose going to make a fiber mold of the dash.
It started as a humble street 302. Lot's of tears later - this. :)

10. I've seen a few different ways to construct homemade floor pans and rear splitters if you are OK with sheet metal. First two feet after factory front lower splitter are critical to keep continuous. venting
into the hood area will make the tiger hood work! and then you can also dump it towards your super cool new wheel well venting.
Cool!

11. Obviously the best of the best would be to put huge skirts on it (like the new Ford GT le mans) and then actually put coke bottle venture shapes in the entire length getting much deeper and more open at the rear exit of the diffuser.. but there is NO room down there unless you take off the gas tank evap off.

I will be adding the deeper APR CF rear diffuser soon.
 
The vented front fenders look terrific. Is it necessary to vent the top of the fender with the existing vents AND the TR hood?
 
Yeah. They're sold as a pair. There's some minor prep work but really not much at all. I wasn't sure if the vent would cut into the C stripe but took a chance and it doesnt.

Rick, I was trying to figure out what you're asking but couldn't. Lol
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
The (honorary) DG Racing Team Engineer approves these mods! 8) Nice work!

Are you going to mod or remove the rear liner? Did you see what they did to the inner sheetmetal liner on the GT350R-C? Might give you some ideas...

I want to use a 1 1/2" or 2" hole punch that forms a bead:
http://www.eastwood.com/punch-and-bead-die-1-5-inch.html
 
Grant 302 said:
The (honorary) DG Racing Team Engineer approves these mods! 8) Nice work!

Are you going to mod or remove the rear liner? Did you see what they did to the inner sheetmetal liner on the GT350R-C? Might give you some ideas...

I want to use a 1 1/2" or 2" hole punch that forms a bead:
http://www.eastwood.com/punch-and-bead-die-1-5-inch.html

Haven't seen yet. I got all new front liners from AM. They are actually thinner (and a tad lighter) than the OEM ones.

Oh, and Grant, I have scale pads now and did my first attempt at corner balancing last weekend. Got it to 50.5% with me in it and 3/4 tank of gas. But that was "at rest". One question for you is whether to consider fuel slosh and rear aero in the balancing. Even though i have lots of front aero (TR hood, LS splitter, canards, 302s grill) I doubt it is equal in force to the rear wing (because of the drive wheels and also front/rear weight distro.

Just a thought.

With my new Michelin tires (650 sidewall vs previous 680), the car now sits with this setup:

- Front ground to fender lip, 25 7/8" (previous 27")
- Rear ground to fender lip, 26 6/8" (previous 27.5")

I need to check the front control arm angles but they are mounted in the top hole on the BMR cradle (so most slope of the 3 positions).

- I have the rear sway on the loosest setting but its rubbing against my OTAs so I'm thinking of removing it entirely. Thoughts?

PS. Pm me your address and I'll send you an official polo shirt.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
DG#56 said:
Haven't seen yet. I got all new front liners from AM. They are actually thinner (and a tad lighter) than the OEM ones.

Screened vents in front of the strut towers:
image_8.jpg
image_11.jpg


Oh, and Grant, I have scale pads now and did my first attempt at corner balancing last weekend. Got it to 50.5% with me in it and 3/4 tank of gas. But that was "at rest". One question for you is whether to consider fuel slosh and rear aero in the balancing. Even though i have lots of front aero (TR hood, LS splitter, canards, 302s grill) I doubt it is equal in force to the rear wing (because of the drive wheels and also front/rear weight distro.

Just a thought.

Sounds good. How much of an adjustment was that on the sway bar end link?

I wouldn't think that fuel slosh will affect anything in the stock 'saddle' tanks. If you went to a trunk mounted fuel cell, I'd consider testing with the weight shift on the scales. But since you have the scales, I *would* check your weights both full and empty for fuel so you see how your weights shift.

A few 'easy' ways to get front aero would be lowering the splitter another inch with spacers, use the GT air dam, or get the large Aggressor splitter like I got from Sam.

With my new Michelin tires (650 sidewall vs previous 680), the car now sits with this setup:

- Front ground to fender lip, 25 7/8" (previous 27")
- Rear ground to fender lip, 26 6/8" (previous 27.5")

I need to check the front control arm angles but they are mounted in the top hole on the BMR cradle (so most slope of the 3 positions).

- I have the rear sway on the loosest setting but its rubbing against my OTAs so I'm thinking of removing it entirely. Thoughts?

I don't have contact issues with my 18mm bar, but I've considered removing it for more rear grip since I have too much in the front when square. I think it would depend more on your oversteer/understeer balance. I say try it without or get an 18mm.


PS. Pm me your address and I'll send you an official polo shirt.

Will do! And thanks for the offer! 8)
 
Grant 302 said:
Vent engine bay air and prevent lift. Screens keep the debris and tire clag out.

I thought about doing this a while back, but the one thing that stopped me is I don't want muddy water splash on my motor and leaving nasty spots.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
DG#56 said:
I thought about doing this a while back, but the one thing that stopped me is I don't want muddy water splash on my motor and leaving nasty spots.

That's one reason why I was thinking of punching several holes on the front of that area, and only trimming the plastic liner enough to vent the air in front of the strut tower, but leaving the holes covered from the bulk of splash. Especially since all my cars need to roll on the street.
 
Grant 302 said:
Vent engine bay air and prevent lift. Screens keep the debris and tire clag out.

I would do that in a second if we could point out exactly where in the fenders we should cut out w/o hitting any high stress areas. the screen is a nice touch too. I assume this is also done to the rear sheet metal? however, where would the air go? does anyone vent tubes out the rear?
 

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