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WARRANTY WARNING!!!!

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steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,017
1,961
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
You would be surprised how light the Coyote motors are. The turbos, manifolding and intercooler on the Eco motors probably add up to the same or more. Aluminator XS is the best bet. I hope Steve gets some compassion from Ford since I think he's quite capable in swapping the engine out. Best case they cover it all but it sounds like they are looking to pin it all on him, if it was me a free long block or deep discount on a crate motor would be the next best bet.
Steve
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
I was at the dealer earlier today. the final word isn't in but it doesn't look good. did you know ford considers 1quart every 800 miles to be within "normal range"? anyhow, since they have my car apart and I am in for that labor, if I get them a new longblock (FR or otherwise), they will put it all back together for around $900 more. no sense in dragging all the parts back to my shop for $900! if ford would agree to help me out on a new crate engine, that would be a solid gesture for a man who has bled ford blue for 22 years.

oh, and I learned how to get an accurate dipstick reading...
1) pull the dipstick out
2) let the car sit overnight
3) insert the dipstick all the way
4) pull the dipstick out and check the result

apparently, the "tube" siphons oil up and holds it there, which gives a higher than actual level.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
pufferfish said:
oh, and I learned how to get an accurate dipstick reading...
1) pull the dipstick out
2) let the car sit overnight
3) insert the dipstick all the way
4) pull the dipstick out and check the result

apparently, the "tube" siphons oil up and holds it there, which gives a higher than actual level.

Uh...what? That's the first time I've heard of someone saying to measure the oil while cold. I've always heard to measure while the engine is warm, but 5-10 mins after shut down to make sure that oil drainback into the pan is "complete".
 

isrboss

I'm never letting Ford do my oil change, since they need my car overnight. Whatever tool told you that just implicated all Ford service departments for not checking oil level properly.
 
If Ford cannot provide a reliable way to measure the oil then and not give any special method to get a reliable measurement, then in my book any damage done is one their shoulders. That is just poor product design, period. When I am designing things for work I have to design assuming they will have "trained monkey" technicians operate/repair it. Car manufacturers are dumb if they don't do the same, especially after my experiences with dealer techs.
 
302BOB said:
Justin mentioned there is no "low oil" warnings on the newer Mustangs. Why on earth would they discontinue that feature????? Oil is the life blood of any engine!
+1
An no oil pressure gauge? I can read AF ratio, intake temp, battery voltage, but no oil pressure? WTF Ford?
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,017
1,961
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
I am going to do some speculating here and I think it's a warning to all of us who track any car. Ford will try and find any reason to void warranty on drivetrain parts on cars that have any mods and or are tracked. I have personally prepared myself for that the first time I turned a wrench on my car to add the CAI and tune.

If you leave the power train stock and do not exceed the factory mechanical rev limit (7000 for GT, 7500 for Boss) and you have oil :mad: you will get warranty work done even if you have axle backs.

If you have a large CAI and tune, exceed redline, have headers, have an aftermarket shifter, come in with low oil, have rubber worms in the wheel wells, tow hooks, brake ducts, numbers on the doors and or roof, a secondary oil cooler, a roll bar, modified suspension, Boss intake on a Coyote engine, data logging system on the dash, no cats or any combination of the above they will deny major claims first and fight over it second.

It sucks but they will not just roll over on what is to Ford Service a $5000 item and to us is an $8000 repair to change out a long block. A good dealer will try and help because they will get paid either way but the Regional Service Writer for Ford Corporate has to approve all warranty claims on major failures in advance. A dealer can't just swap an engine without sending the ECU data and calling the Regional guy or gal out to review the damage, just like an insurance claim.

A lot of Boss owners have gotten work warranted which is awesome, but others like Captdistraction and Steve Puffer have gotten the runaround and have or may have to go in their pocket to repair a failed engine or trans because of track use. This is just business and with our cars we all make it personal.

The only thing you can do is fight to get as much as you can, Steve is a Ford man for 22 years, personally I have been one for 32 and have purchased 9 new Fords since 1999 and have owned 10 more from 81-98. Call Ford customer service and let them know this, send emails, beg for help with the cost of the parts, let them know the reason you bought Ford is for quality and performance and maybe you will get some positive action in your favor. If you don't fight they will just push you aside and you will pay full price.

Sorry to rant on but we as a community have to look in the mirror and realize what risks we are taking on track. I have noticed a rise in failures and incidents at track days and on this forum and think we are pushing these cars to their reliability limits.
As we make them more like race cars and push harder to lap faster we take on the burden of race level maintenance and repair. Means oil changes and trans/diff lube changes every 4 track hours, checking oil and brake fluid levels every session (that oil level check procedure is bullshit, tell them to f@ck off) check it cold or if run, let it sit for 10-15 minutes, pull, wipe, dip and check and keep it at the top of the hash marks. Check brake pads every track day or at each oil change, check lug torque every session and inspect wheels for cracks, check coolant levels and for leaks (coolant should be changed every 2 years or 5000 track miles), I think the hoses and caps should be changed soon for us track guys too at least look them over and squeeze test them. Axle and transmission seals should be inspected (I did the seals and replaced rear calipers last year due to heat damage to both), front hubs, all suspension bolts should be torque checked before a track weekend and replaced every 2 seasons. Forget warranty these items are life saving in a track environment, any one of these failures and you can go off and really have a bad day.

I wish Steve all the best with his repair and hope his experience is a heads up for all of us.

Steve
 
Not trying to get off-topic, but it would be beneficial to all, I think, if we cobbled together a "track use" maintenance schedule for us inexperienced guys. I always go through a quick checklist, and oil level is on there, the night before. Mostly gear checks and a quick walk-around for the obvious items.

The Boss is getting more people on the track for the first time than any other vehicle, besides the Miata maybe, and that might be why some of us are having problems with reliability. We are inexperienced and might miss the maintenance that is normal for track use, like suspension bolts/hardware, but abnormal for the street.
 
WinterSucks said:
Not trying to get off-topic, but it would be beneficial to all, I think, if we cobbled together a "track use" maintenance schedule for us inexperienced guys. I always go through a quick checklist, and oil level is on there, the night before. Mostly gear checks and a quick walk-around for the obvious items.

The Boss is getting more people on the track for the first time than any other vehicle, besides the Miata maybe, and that might be why some of us are having problems with reliability. We are inexperienced and might miss the maintenance that is normal for track use, like suspension bolts/hardware, but abnormal for the street.

Not to give you the go around but there are probably a few threads on here, if not you can PM me and I can let you know what I do.

On the question of why Ford doesn't have a display/measure for oil, I had read that they got so many complaints from people thinking the oil pressure getting high was an issue. Probably true.
 
I've wondered since I got my car about the lack of an oil pressure gauge - either physical or through the gauge display. Are you guys saying that there is no 'low oil' indicator? Is there a 'low oil pressure' indicator? I sure as heck hope so. I can't imagine that any vehicle would not include any of these.
 

four-walling

Kerry, San Diego
GottaBoss said:
Well that's a bit of a relief. I wonder if that's low oil or low oil pressure?

I read a little bit further into the online owner's manual and it says there is the warning light "if equippped" and illuminates when the oil pressure "falls below the normal range".

Don't know of the car is equipped or not...if the Boss is "not equipped" I wonder which Mustang is?

EDIT: I just put the key in the ignition, turned it to illuminate the warning lights. The Boss DOES have an oil pressure light (it looks like an old fashioned gas can) and is located under the C-H temperature guage. My car is a 2012 if that makes a difference.
 

four-walling

Kerry, San Diego
Brandon302 said:
That doesn't sound as fun as the Ecoboost monster motor.


Getting back into the sport truck game, Ford Motor Company today unveiled a new, twin-turbocharged version of its standard cab F-150 pickup.
Read more at http://www.leftlanenews.com/ford-f-150-tremor.html#VMOMB3cSzSWH6zh2.99
ford-tremor-ri_653.jpg


By Andrew Ganz

Thursday, Jun 27th, 2013 @ 9:07 am

Getting back into the sport truck game, Ford Motor Company today unveiled a new, twin-turbocharged version of its standard cab F-150 pickup.

Called the F-150 Tremor, the new package combines the automaker's FX appearance package, 3.5-liter EcoBoost V6 engine, 4.10 rear locking differential and a number of premium features with the body of a short wheelbase, regular cab truck. No suspension changes have been made, meaning the F-150 Tremor is more an appearance package than a genuine high-performance truck like the long-departed F-150 Lightning. Both 4x2 and 4x4 models will be available.

The F-150's 3.5-liter V6 is unchanged from other versions of the truck, meaning it cranks out 365 horsepower at 5,00 rpm and a solid 420 lb-ft. of torque at 2,500 rpm. Ford says that Tremor's fuel economy figures mirror the standard F-150's 16/22 mpg on regular fuel (for 4x2 models).

When it goes on sale this fall, the F-150 Tremor will include a version of the automaker's FX appearance package with flat black body accents and flat black 20-inch alloy wheels. Inside, it's the only regular cab F-150 to include a center console and bucket seats. To make it stand apart, the Tremor uses black leather/Alcantara synthetic seats with red piping plus brushed metal and red stitched accents. HID headlamps are also standard.

Ford will also include its MyFord Touch infotainment system as standard equipment.

Pricing has not been announced.
Read more at http://www.leftlanenews.com/ford-f-150-tremor.html#VMOMB3cSzSWH6zh2.99
 
GottaBoss said:
I've wondered since I got my car about the lack of an oil pressure gauge - either physical or through the gauge display. Are you guys saying that there is no 'low oil' indicator? Is there a 'low oil pressure' indicator? I sure as heck hope so. I can't imagine that any vehicle would not include any of these.

It has been my experience with factory oil light indicators, that they come on just to let you know that you need a new motor. Not to warn you that are a little low on oil and should put some in. if you see the little red light, get a tissue and have a good cry, cause it's over.

Sorry to hear about your Motor Puffer, get a hold of Deysha, she has rescued many that had issue with Ford reps that were less than enlightened.
 
NewBossowner said:
It has been my experience with factory oil light indicators, that they come on just to let you know that you need a new motor. Not to warn you that are a little low on oil and should put some in. if you see the little red light, get a tissue and have a good cry, cause it's over.
LOL, exaaaacctly.
 

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