Watson Bar install question

[ncpeds]

I'm installing a 4 point Watson Racing bar in my 2014 GT. I'm having a problem with the rear support plates that mount on the underside of the car. I drilled the initial mounting holes and as you can see from the pictures the plate doesn't clear the body fold by about one inch. It's sort of hard to describe but hopefully the pictures tell the story. Since I took these pictures I've scraped off the seam sealer and it didn't make any difference. I haven't fully tightened the gussets yet so I can muscle the bar back a little but not quite an inch.
The first picture is how the rear supports sit on their own. The other two are from the underside (obvious I know!).

Has anyone else had this issue? I've been talking to Frank at Watson who has been very helpful... any other ideas?

 

[67GTA]

I'm installing a 4 point Watson Racing bar in my 2014 GT. I'm having a problem with the rear support plates that mount on the underside of the car. I drilled the initial mounting holes and as you can see from the pictures the plate doesn't clear the body fold by about one inch. It's sort of hard to describe but hopefully the pictures tell the story. Since I took these pictures I've scraped off the seam sealer and it didn't make any difference. I haven't fully tightened the gussets yet so I can muscle the bar back a little but not quite an inch.
The first picture is how the rear supports sit on their own. The other two are from the underside (obvious I know!).

Has anyone else had this issue? I've been talking to Frank at Watson who has been very helpful... any other ideas?
View attachment 61111View attachment 61109View attachment 61110

The same bar was installed in my car when I bought it (thank goodness - the seller said it was a PITA to install). I can take similar pictures of mine tonight to compare, but based on memory it looks like yours is sitting in the same spot as where mine is mounted, and I’m sure the top plate crosses that body seam.

 

[ncpeds]

The same bar was installed in my car when I bought it (thank goodness - the seller said it was a PITA to install). I can take similar pictures of mine tonight to compare, but based on memory it looks like yours is sitting in the same spot as where mine is mounted, and I’m sure the top plate crosses that body seam.

Thanks. Yes a definite PITA but that's part of the fun, right? I have some ideas about making it fit but I want to get more opinions before I drill more holes.

I think the issue is that the tolerances on the Watson bar are pretty tight and the tolerances on the Mustang are... well... not. There were huge gaps around the gussets when I peeled the seam sealer away.

It would be great to see a picture of where the rear supports are in your car. Thank you!

 

[steeda5]

I had one installed in my Boss prior to a Watson full cage being installed. Pm me, I might be able to help.

 

[TMSBOSS]

There were huge gaps around the gussets when I peeled the seam sealer away.

Would the seal sealer work without the gaps??

 

[67GTA]

Here’s a few pics from mine. Looks like he trimmed the plate to clear the 90 degree corner on the under side of the body.

 

[ncpeds]

Here’s a few pics from mine. Looks like he trimmed the plate to clear the 90 degree corner on the under side of the body.

View attachment 61149View attachment 61150

Wow thanks for the pictures, especially the underside one. Trimming that forward edge of the plate is part of my plan so it makes me feel better that someone else has had to do that too.

 

[ncpeds]

Would the seal sealer work without the gaps??

In this case it was more like gap sealer since some of the gaps were in the 1/2" range!

 

[TMSBOSS]

With fewer welds in a car and more sealers, mastics and cements used to assemble a car or truck today. Assuming a gap which allows the sealer to bridge the space is not by design may be incorrect. With tolerances being so tight in modern cars, they didn’t just “Miss” on this seam by 1/2”.

 

[ncpeds]

With fewer welds in a car and more sealers, mastics and cements used to assemble a car or truck today. Assuming a gap which allows the sealer to bridge the space is not by design may be incorrect. With tolerances being so tight in modern cars, they didn’t just “Miss” on this seam by 1/2”.

Tell me about it. I think if the gusset seams were tight the bar would go in more easily and everything would line up better.

The worst area is the front bottom edge on the right side gusset. The left side is not as bad. Maybe my particular car was built at the end of a shift or something!

 

[LS128]

I had to trim the front of the mounting plates. I also found that the down bars moved closer to the holes once I tightened the main hoop. Lastly I opened up the holes on the down bars to 1/2”.

 

[steveespo]

Are the main hoop bolts loose? You have to keep all bolts loose until you catch them all. This way the main hoop can be rocked forward and back. Also use blue locktite on all the bolts, they will vibrate loose over time on track.

 

[DipstickMotorsports]

Yep, Similar issue on mine I did years ago. Had to trim the bottom plates to clear room against the body under car.

 

[ncpeds]

Thanks to all for the advice. I trimmed the plates and had already cut the holes to 1/2". I'm making progress slowly but surely...

 

[jayhawk261]

I had the same issue on my 2011. Instead of trimming the plates, I rotated them 180 degrees. The holes in the plates are not symmetrical. You wind up with the same bearing surface between the bar plates and the plates underneath. You cannot, however, use the place-holding bolts. I just bolted it in with the 4 main bolts for each plate as I don't plan to take it in and out which is what the place-holders are for.

I think Watson needs to revisit the design on this bar and flatten the angle out just a little to move the plates back for the necessary clearance. This problem seems to be pretty widespread.

 

[ncpeds]

I had the same issue on my 2011. Instead of trimming the plates, I rotated them 180 degrees. The holes in the plates are not symmetrical. You wind up with the same bearing surface between the bar plates and the plates underneath. You cannot, however, use the place-holding bolts. I just bolted it in with the 4 main bolts for each plate as I don't plan to take it in and out which is what the place-holders are for.

I think Watson needs to revisit the design on this bar and flatten the angle out just a little to move the plates back for the necessary clearance. This problem seems to be pretty widespread.

What a good idea. I wish I'd thought of that. Initially my intention was to have the bar bolt in and out but I'm thinking it will stay in. (My kids are too big for the back seat anyway)

I agree that Watson needs to make some changes. After I trimmed the plates it was really difficult to know exactly where the plates would sit underneath so I could drill the holes correctly from above. I got it done though.
So frustrating!

 

[Jimmy Pribble]

Same as jayhawk - I turned the plates 180 degrees.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/watson-racing-4-pt-roll-bar-install.8371/page-2#post-182000

 

[jayhawk261]

Sounds like Watson has a known universal issue here. I don't know if they are a sponsor here or if anyone here has their ear, but I would hope they would take the time to reconfigure the bar to be the piece they charge for. The bar certainly isn't cheap, and it is advertised as being fairly easily removed and reinstalled. Once you have to repair the fit issue, that aspect goes away (at least when you rotate the plate). Right now it seems like they need to revisit the design to meet the intent of their advertising.

 

[bob]

). Right now it seems like they need to revisit the design to meet the intent of their advertising.

I do not see them doing that. They know they are the only game in town ansd if you want 4pt's that is what you are buying. They have the ear of the community. In fact 90% of the full cage racecars I see use their kit and just weld it in. Their kit has become the standard even though IMO it has several flaws that caused me to spend the time and effort and bend my own bars. The flaws are not bad they are just setup for production and selling cages that will fit 100% of cars. I wanted my pintle box of the cage to be at the lowest point in the car and also used this point to tit in my seat frame welding to the cage so my seat is mounted to cage not floor. I wanted redundancy of fortifying my rolloverhoop at the sill plate. I wanted all the clearance I can get for my head so I tucked the head bars up on the roofline. Some areas of the headbar I can barely slip a piece of paper through. Watson anchors the rollover bar on the crossbar in front of the gas tanks and has the head tube run straight to A piller without contouring along the roof ending right around your temples. This picture of my car mid build...