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Watson Racing Roll Bar Group Buy

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I installed the Watson main hoop tonight and have a couple thoughts. First, be precise with drilling factory gussets and backing plate installation. Plates are riveted in, and there is no room for error. Expand holes to 7/16" on the main hoop lower mounts! Rear feet install is next, but looks pretty simple. I'm a little nervous about trimming side panels per instructions because measurements are based of Patricks GT model, and my 2013 Boss side panels are shaped different. Overall this is a quality piece, packaging and shipping was excellent, and customer service from Patrick is outstanding. The Recaro seats seem to lose some rearward travel. The welded pieces on the bar for wrapping shoulder straps are about four inches lower than Recaro seat slots.
 

Dig-It

Kevin
238
8
VA
wny354 said:
I installed the Watson main hoop tonight and have a couple thoughts. First, be precise with drilling factory gussets and backing plate installation. Plates are riveted in, and there is no room for error. Expand holes to 7/16" on the main hoop lower mounts! Rear feet install is next, but looks pretty simple. I'm a little nervous about trimming side panels per instructions because measurements are based of Patricks GT model, and my 2013 Boss side panels are shaped different. Overall this is a quality piece, packaging and shipping was excellent, and customer service from Patrick is outstanding. The Recaro seats seem to lose some rearward travel. The welded pieces on the bar for wrapping shoulder straps are about four inches lower than Recaro seat slots.

Thanks for the tips and information. What angle do you keep your seatback at? More upright or reclined? Having the straps 4-inches lower that the Recaro slots for you may be more for someone else.

Thanks again.
Kevin
 
I did try numerous stock Recaro seat postions with different recline positions, and yes this bar very compatible. Lower race seats won't be a problem either. Another installation consideration is the use of the flat washers underneath the two M6 attaching bolts to hold up the rear "foot" bolt plates. You don't need them and I feel they don't allow the legs to lay flat against the car. The M6 allen heads only purpose is to hold up the plates while legs are bolted in. I had to drill out the leg plate slightly to allow these allen head M6 bolts to turn. Maybe the power coating was a little thick. Oh .... clean you back window real nice, you don't have a prayer of cleaning it once the bar is in!
 
Mike ... Let me know how accurate the side plastic trim cutting dimensions are, I'll let you be the guinea pig, since I already had to buy a new scuff plate ... Thanks, Gregg
 
Scuff plates are the first things you have to remove. The "Powered By Ford" plastics bastards. The blue clips that hold them down where made in hell, by the devil.
 
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wny354 said:
Scuff plates are the first things you have to remove. The "Powered By Ford" plastics bastards. The blue clips that hold them down where made in hell, by the devil.

Killed my scuff plates when I ran wiring for a stereo upgrade. *gasp* I know, a heathen....but I like to get my rock and roll on. Felt like I was trying to uproot a tree when pulling those out!

Gave Patrick the Amex digits earlier today, so will be doing my install soon enough. Hoping to learn from the other 2013 guys as far as doing interior trimming. Would be nice to be able to not have to gut the back end every time I want to throw the bar in for some track time!
 
Got the rear down tubes installed last night. Again, be precise when drilling, no room for error. Forward facing holes run into seam sealer (top and bottom on the car). Be aware of line that crosses underneath car, very close to forward holes. Nut plate needed to be placed above this line and against 90 degree body crease. I used a step drill on the rear most 7/16" holes, because regular drill bit is too tall. I did not cut or install side panels yet, and most likely will have to remove down tubes to fit them in. Once you install this roll bar, I'm pretty sure you'll think twice about removing it for casual ride with the kids. As stated in a previous post, if you decide to go "roll bar", forget about the back seats!
 

mcmmotorsports

Resident Mental Patient
Bar bolted-in, down bars test fitted.
One other tip, and I will get with Patrick so that the instructions are fixed.
Step 11 and 12 show that you need to provision the substructure. Step 11 shows a photo of a sharpie on the front of said inner structure but doesn't say you need to drill a hole. The way the instructions are worded one would think you only need to drill the rear.
Not true, you have to provision the front as well.

Waiting on the post office to deliver my radius before I continue with notching the interior panels.

Pic:
barinstall.jpg
 
Mike,
The only error in step #12 is "driver side" and "pass side" photos are miss labeled (there reversed). You do not need to clearance the forward holes with the 7/8" hole saw. Just the rear (inside) holes need to be clearanced. You just give the prepped gusset a little twist and the nut plate falls right in. Did you cut trim panels yet? How accurate are the dimensions?
Gregg
 
Also, if you don't plan on putting rear seats back in (like me), then remove the rear seat belt retractors now. You already have side trim panels off. That along with quarter window trim removal get you access to remove retractors. How do you enjoy scuff plate removal?
 

mcmmotorsports

Resident Mental Patient
Scuff plates gave me no issues. Sorry
Planned on pulling retractors since I am putting in a RSD but really see no need now. Just more stuff to remove, more chance of plastic to break and I am not looking to make my car the lightest thing out there.
 

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