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Watts Link and Shock/Strut Upgrade Question

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Hi Guys,
'08 GT500, mostly stock. Upgrades include camber/caster plates, Whiteline HD sway bars front and rear, front brake cooling ducts, Hawk HP+ brake pads and Pirelli DS slicks on track days.
I have been doing track days for 3 years and do 3-6 events per year.
Wondering if I would notice much difference on the track with a Watts Link set up and/or upgraded shock/struts? Is one better bank for the buck versus the other? Both kind of make sense to me, but just curious to what any of you have experienced.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
 
Hi Guys,
'08 GT500, mostly stock. Upgrades include camber/caster plates, Whiteline HD sway bars front and rear, front brake cooling ducts, Hawk HP+ brake pads and Pirelli DS slicks on track days.
I have been doing track days for 3 years and do 3-6 events per year.
Wondering if I would notice much difference on the track with a Watts Link set up and/or upgraded shock/struts? Is one better bank for the buck versus the other? Both kind of make sense to me, but just curious to what any of you have experienced.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
A torque arm to get rid of the stupid 3rd link and allow the suspension to work properly. Simple bolt on and gives results.
 

racer47

Still winning after 30+ years
392
497
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20+ Years
SE WI
A torque arm to get rid of the stupid 3rd link and allow the suspension to work properly. Simple bolt on and gives results.

Torque arms are inferior to 3 and 4 link according all recent professional chassis designers and builders. Trans Am, GT-1 and now TA2 / GT2 cars have all standardized on 3 links rears (with some 4 link cars remaining) and watts links. These guys could use torque arms and panhard bars if they wanted. But no purpose built, solid axle, road race car do so.
 
Matt, what would be your recommendation for a good strut/shock upgrade? Car is not lowered (maybe it should be?). I'm still in novice or intermediate groups at track day events.
I can only recommend what I've got experience with. I'm on Bilstein coilovers right now. They use the same monotube damper from the non-adjustable units. Before I got them, I was going to buy the non-adjustable Bilstein struts and Vorshlag camber plates because I'm like you, still a beginner on the track for the most part and at my skill level. At the time, the adjustability wasn't a huge necessity for me but I got a deal on my coils so I put the cart before the horse I guess. From what I understand, the spring rates of most conventional lowering springs are fairly similar. so I'd personally stick with a spring set that doesn't drop the car drastically. Something like Eibach Pros, or a conservative spring that doesn't drop the car ~2" so the car isn't busting the bump stops over every bump.

Personally, I'd go with Bilsteins because they're a quality monotube damper, a conservative spring that drops the car ~.8" and a good set of camber plates, whether it be Vorshlag, Maximum, etc. You'd save some money over a quality set of coils and you could buy track time instead which is arguably more important. I feel like something like this would not only be street friendly but would also allow you to be able to get a better, firmer feel of the car and when you want to, you can adjust camber, etc. to try and maximize the setup's potential.

Just my .02
 
I can only recommend what I've got experience with. I'm on Bilstein coilovers right now. They use the same monotube damper from the non-adjustable units. Before I got them, I was going to buy the non-adjustable Bilstein struts and Vorshlag camber plates because I'm like you, still a beginner on the track for the most part and at my skill level. At the time, the adjustability wasn't a huge necessity for me but I got a deal on my coils so I put the cart before the horse I guess. From what I understand, the spring rates of most conventional lowering springs are fairly similar. so I'd personally stick with a spring set that doesn't drop the car drastically. Something like Eibach Pros, or a conservative spring that doesn't drop the car ~2" so the car isn't busting the bump stops over every bump.

Personally, I'd go with Bilsteins because they're a quality monotube damper, a conservative spring that drops the car ~.8" and a good set of camber plates, whether it be Vorshlag, Maximum, etc. You'd save some money over a quality set of coils and you could buy track time instead which is arguably more important. I feel like something like this would not only be street friendly but would also allow you to be able to get a better, firmer feel of the car and when you want to, you can adjust camber, etc. to try and maximize the setup's potential.

Just my .02
I appreciate the input Matt.
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
1,180
1,419
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3-5 Years
South Carolina
If you do decide to swap out the shocks and struts the best recommendations I've seen are usually the package deals from a major player such as Vorshlag or Ford. They've already done the homework for you and have matched up spring rates to shocks and struts and they'll have (or can make recommendations) on other parts you may come to want in the future that will play nicely with their setups.
 
I can only recommend what I've got experience with. I'm on Bilstein coilovers right now. They use the same monotube damper from the non-adjustable units. Before I got them, I was going to buy the non-adjustable Bilstein struts and Vorshlag camber plates because I'm like you, still a beginner on the track for the most part and at my skill level. At the time, the adjustability wasn't a huge necessity for me but I got a deal on my coils so I put the cart before the horse I guess. From what I understand, the spring rates of most conventional lowering springs are fairly similar. so I'd personally stick with a spring set that doesn't drop the car drastically. Something like Eibach Pros, or a conservative spring that doesn't drop the car ~2" so the car isn't busting the bump stops over every bump.

Personally, I'd go with Bilsteins because they're a quality monotube damper, a conservative spring that drops the car ~.8" and a good set of camber plates, whether it be Vorshlag, Maximum, etc. You'd save some money over a quality set of coils and you could buy track time instead which is arguably more important. I feel like something like this would not only be street friendly but would also allow you to be able to get a better, firmer feel of the car and when you want to, you can adjust camber, etc. to try and maximize the setup's potential.

Just my .02
I have similar quandary deciding between struts vs height adjustable c/overs. My goal is to lower ride height and increase spring rate for my 5-6/season track events on a C&C LS. Cost is obstacle to go c/over however quality and getting the advertised result from the product is the unknown. I went the strut/lowering spring route last year and the experience was a fail. So now my choice is declare insanity and do the same thing and expect different result with the exception of using different branded components and suppliers, or spend more money on more height adjustability.
The idea of spending less on suspension upgrade and buying seat time seems to be good suggestion, thanks.
 
good coilovers are north of $5K, and need rebuilding every 20K miles, your money is best spent elsewhere. (the Penskes used on the PWC and IMSA cars are $10K)

once again, the "kits" from Ford Performance are hard to beat..

Thx blacksheep1 strut/spring route is where I think I’m going. Spending ~$5k for JRZ is just too big a leap. Question about upgrading OE Ford/Tokico struts on Boss LS, do you have suggestion or stay put as aftermarket dampers aren’t much of an improvement? There was a Tokico upgrade years ago (18000-C?) that is no longer made (I think). Planning Steeda Boss springs. Rear links/PHB upgrades done and I’m happy with that. Thanks
 
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Thx blacksheep1 strut/spring route is where I think I’m going. Spending ~$5k for JRZ is just too big a leap. Question about upgrading OE Ford/Tokico struts on Boss LS, do you have suggestion or stay put as aftermarket dampers aren’t much of an improvement? There was a Tokico upgrade years ago (18000-C?) that is no longer made (I think). Planning Steeda Boss springs. Rear links/PHB upgrades done and I’m happy with that. Thanks
The shocks in that kit I posted are adjustable, prolly made by Tokico, sold as FR
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
1,180
1,419
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
South Carolina
Thx blacksheep1 strut/spring route is where I think I’m going. Spending ~$5k for JRZ is just too big a leap. Question about upgrading OE Ford/Tokico struts on Boss LS, do you have suggestion or stay put as aftermarket dampers aren’t much of an improvement? There was a Tokico upgrade years ago (18000-C?) that is no longer made (I think). Planning Steeda Boss springs. Rear links/PHB upgrades done and I’m happy with that. Thanks

What I'm trying to say, and I think Blacksheep is as well, is that if you get one of the kits mentioned, you don't need to worry about any of what you're asking. The parts will all play nice together and are known improvements.
 

cobrarob

11 Shelby GT500
555
130
new york
On my 11’shelby I upgraded to the fr3 adj. suspension,very good improvement over stock. I then upgraded the Panhard bar to the Kenny brown kit and and it felt even better outback.Used that setup for coupe years and switch to the st xta coils($1700) car felt more controlled and like the ride height adj.
On to the Watts now...I then switched to the Fays piece and the rear felt more controlled/settled over the KB kit..imo. Lap times were a littl better which is a plus but the better feel is👍
 

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