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Weight reduction

OK, I know we have a 3600+ lb car so small weight savings take a while to add up. However, the relatively minor changes I've made (especially for track days) seem to have made an arguably significant dent.

Enkei PF01 wheels/Hoosier R6 295/315:
Front 60 street vs 45 - 15 lbs each x 2 = -30 lbs
Rear 58 street vs 49.2 - 9 lbs each x 2 = -18 lbs
Corsa Extreme axle backs (pair) 54 lbs stock vs 24 lbs = -30 lbs
Kooks Off-Road H-pipe 32 lbs stock vs 17 lbs = -15 lbs
Side pipe delete 5.5 lbs each = -11 lbs
Kooks LT headers vs stock manifolds = + 3lbs
Roll bar, mounts & harness bar +69 lbs.
Rear seat delete kit +12 lbs.
Remove rear seats and belts and factory mounts -54 lbs
Swap to the Tiger Hood -17 lbs
Remove washer bottle incl fluid -8 lbs
Remove flat repair kit -5 lbs
Sparco race seat 35lbs versus stock seat 46lbs = -11 lbs
302S tow hooks +2 lbs
FRPP air-to-oil cooler +8 lbs
1-pc DSS aluminum driveshaft vs stock -21 lbs
DS saftey loop +10 lbs
Trunk liner -7 lbs
Passenger seat -46 lbs (track only)
Watts link versus panhard bar +15 lbs
Rear axle weights -5 lbs
Battery relocation kit +25 lbs
Remove A/C condenser, compressor, lines and belt -21 lbs.

Total weight savings so far is 116 lbs with passenger seat and 162 without it.

With a curb weight of 3630, I'm at 3514 to 3468 with or without the passenger seat.
 
2012Boss said:
http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com/BOSS_302R_DRIVESHAFT_p/m-4602-s.htm

This does not work in the factory Boss? Why?
The 302R and S use a different transmission, I believe the one from the GT500.
 
5 DOT 0 said:
2012Boss said:
http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com/BOSS_302R_DRIVESHAFT_p/m-4602-s.htm

This does not work in the factory Boss? Why?
The 302R and S use a different transmission, I believe the one from the GT500.
Yep the Tremec T6060. I could flip my MT-82 with my GT500 I suppose, but I'm afraid the Getrag would be hamburger after a few hard launches in the GT500 :eek:
 
The trans in the 302R has a completely different tail shaft on it vs the Boss 302S and therefore the driveshafts are not compatible.
 

ArizonaBOSS

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cloud9 said:
ArizonaGT said:
I'd be wary of the CF driveshafts, I've seen one of those twisted apart by a GT pushing 375whp. I wouldn't put it on a Boss. Rehagen runs Dynotech aluminum driveshafts, 18lbs vs 36lbs stocker. Give that a shot if you want a new DS.
I'm wary of any after-market driveshafts on the S197. They're very prone to DS vibration, which is why Ford uses such a heavy two piece DS. The aluminum they're using is probably a one-piece? I'm running a 2-piece aluminum/chromoly on my GT500 and it weighs 27 lbs, but will stand up to the hp I'm putting down and the stocker won't. The 1-piece aluminum I had vibrated like crazy. If you change DS's and can't adjust pinion angle (which we can't with the stock suspension), you'll most likely have vibration. Supposedly that's yet another benefit of the CF in that it doesn't have the harmonics of aluminum. They're also reportedly stronger than aluminum and if they do fail they basically disintegrate versus becoming a nasty metal whip. I'm not really planning to go here anytime soon, but something to think about down the road.

Just couple your DS with an adjustable UCA for the rear and the vibration issue is done.
 
175
0
Check out the DSS and PST drive shafts. A true one piece drive shaft with a CV joint at one end. It eliminates the problems associated with aligning the double universal joints and the sliding splined section. Much better shafts lighter stronger and only slightly more expensive.
 
335
1
A lightweight driveshaft is on my short list. I know cooltech sells one and it is at 19lbs and quite a bit cheaper than the PST one. Anyone else have any leads on lightweight DS?
 

steveespo

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I have the 3.5" aluminum driveshaft from the drive shaft shop and have no vibration issues up to 140 mph. It has a constant velocity joint on the differential and a 1330 series u joint at the front. Includes a cnc machined adapter flange that bolts to the stock pinion flange so the pinion yoke does not get removed. Have about 150 test miles on it under all driving conditions except track and there are no strange noises or binding of any kind. Paid $650 from Lethal performance, rated at 900 HP, they have also just released a CF version that lists at $1200 or so. Check them out, they have new 9500 rpm computer balancing machine and explain some driveline dynamics at their site.
Steve
 
335
1
steveespo said:
I have the 3.5" aluminum driveshaft from the drive shaft shop and have no vibration issues up to 140 mph. It has a constant velocity joint on the differential and a 1330 series u joint at the front. Includes a cnc machined adapter flange that bolts to the stock pinion flange so the pinion yoke does not get removed. Have about 150 test miles on it under all driving conditions except track and there are no strange noises or binding of any kind. Paid $650 from Lethal performance, rated at 900 HP, they have also just released a CF version that lists at $1200 or so. Check them out, they have new 9500 rpm computer balancing machine and explain some driveline dynamics at their site.
Steve

Excellent info..... Thanks Steve!
 

steveespo

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Started my CHE aluminum front bumper bar replacement. Of course you have to remove the bumper cover and lower valance. Removal of 4 13mm bolts that hold the stock bar is easy remember short bolts go on top. Leave 1 top bolt on each side partially threaded in so bar doesn't drop on you during next step. Next is drilling out the 6 spot welds that also attach the bar, 5/16" bit is good here, may have to ream the holes a little and then gently split the the welds. Rempve bar and grind down any spot weld burrs that may remain and straighten the flanges if needed.
I weighed the stock bar and foam cover and the came in at a surprising #13!!!!! replacement bar is #2.9 so a meager #10 savings. Better than nothing but I don't recommend unless you are absolutly hardcore nuts like me. I have primed and wet sanded the new bar and will be applying Race Red base/clear in about a half hour. I am taking some pics and will post later.
Steve
 

steveespo

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Finished the CHE bumper bar install. Pics below. Very easy but like I said only a 10 pound savings (off of the very front though). I have gotten to be an expert at R&R the bumper cover :D
028.jpg
023.jpg


I am thinking of installing a Setrab oil cooler in the left or right front area in front of the wheel shield. Seems to be room for a Setrab 50-160-7612 which is one size smaller than the one cool tech is using. My idea is to add another duct from the fog light grille to the face of the cooler and slot and screen the splash shield to evacuate the heat. I will keep posted.
Steve
 

BLAZN BOSS

How does the bumper foam that keeps the shape of the bumper cover re-install?
 

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