9/18 update: price reduced
$1400, prefer a local pickup/or happy to drive and meet up in California. Shipping at buyers expense.
These wheels are awesome. I've been sitting on them for years. Selling because my front brakes (Stoptech 380mm) won't fit in the barrel of the fronts and I'm in denial, but not going back to factory Brembos. OEM 14" Brembos have great clearance--that's how I ran them. Only drove on them for one track day. They're in very very good condition. No bends, no scratches, but super minor cosmetic blems from brake fluid.
These are 3 piece, fully forged wheels that are welded together (hence the name). Look for the weld between the rim halves:
Specifications are below:
FRONTS: The 11.5" fronts follow the same thought process that people use for 18x11s. I'll use Apex 18x11s as a benchmark. Their et52 wheel + 25mm spacer makes for an effective et27. The inboard position of this Weld 18x11.5" wheel will be the same.
You may need small spacers to work with tires or depending on your front strut. With these 305 tires, I ran camber max'd out at 2.6° and they didn't rub. If you have camber plates that dial in more camber, you should have better clearance than I did. Note: I have Cortex offset struts, but they're not necessarily required for these fronts.
REARS: This was an easier piece of the puzzle. Many folks run 18x12s for wide drag radials. Then Vorshlag showed everyone you can run an 18x12 in the rear and drive the balls out of it on a road course. Basic requirements are trimming the bump stop bracket and relocating bump stops. You cannot run a coilover in the rear. Spring needs to be divorced from the shock. In the photo above, I had a 9mm spacer in the rear (for effective et47 offset) to clear Cortex's brackets and hardware from their rear coilover (even with the spring in the OEM position). You need about 30 minutes with a cutting wheel and these relocation brackets: https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...ts/s197-mustang-axle-bump-stop-relocation-kit
I would loooove to still run these. Someone, please make me proud. Don't let me mount them on my wife's CR-V.
Obligatory photo dump of testing them on the car and how they currently sit.
Front face
Rear face
Tire fitment on the front vs rear.
The worst looking blemish. I'm sure this can be polished out with elbow grease. I just ran out.
$1400, prefer a local pickup/or happy to drive and meet up in California. Shipping at buyers expense.
These wheels are awesome. I've been sitting on them for years. Selling because my front brakes (Stoptech 380mm) won't fit in the barrel of the fronts and I'm in denial, but not going back to factory Brembos. OEM 14" Brembos have great clearance--that's how I ran them. Only drove on them for one track day. They're in very very good condition. No bends, no scratches, but super minor cosmetic blems from brake fluid.
These are 3 piece, fully forged wheels that are welded together (hence the name). Look for the weld between the rim halves:
Specifications are below:
- Fronts
- 18x11.5 et 21
- High pad center in black
- Weight:
- Rears
- 18x12 et 56
- Medium pad center in black
- Weight:
- Tires: 4x Continental GT-O 305/660/18. Plenty of tread left, but they're 5+ years old. Little to no value there.
FRONTS: The 11.5" fronts follow the same thought process that people use for 18x11s. I'll use Apex 18x11s as a benchmark. Their et52 wheel + 25mm spacer makes for an effective et27. The inboard position of this Weld 18x11.5" wheel will be the same.
You may need small spacers to work with tires or depending on your front strut. With these 305 tires, I ran camber max'd out at 2.6° and they didn't rub. If you have camber plates that dial in more camber, you should have better clearance than I did. Note: I have Cortex offset struts, but they're not necessarily required for these fronts.
REARS: This was an easier piece of the puzzle. Many folks run 18x12s for wide drag radials. Then Vorshlag showed everyone you can run an 18x12 in the rear and drive the balls out of it on a road course. Basic requirements are trimming the bump stop bracket and relocating bump stops. You cannot run a coilover in the rear. Spring needs to be divorced from the shock. In the photo above, I had a 9mm spacer in the rear (for effective et47 offset) to clear Cortex's brackets and hardware from their rear coilover (even with the spring in the OEM position). You need about 30 minutes with a cutting wheel and these relocation brackets: https://vorshlag-store.com/collecti...ts/s197-mustang-axle-bump-stop-relocation-kit
I would loooove to still run these. Someone, please make me proud. Don't let me mount them on my wife's CR-V.
Obligatory photo dump of testing them on the car and how they currently sit.
Front face
Rear face
Tire fitment on the front vs rear.
The worst looking blemish. I'm sure this can be polished out with elbow grease. I just ran out.
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