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Well, we might as well talk about my brakes again... is this transfer okay?

I'm on my 2nd track day with XP20/XP10 pads on my Brembo Mustang.

I've got pretty funky looking rotors... would you please take a look and tell me what you think?

I had Alcon temperature strips on the calipers that showed that the outside caliper face never got as high as 450 degrees, for what that's worth.

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Thanks!
 
They are never a bad thing either. Key is to run your your thumbnail over them and if they are large enough to catch, they are a problem.

Pad transfer isn't a problem either other than causing temporary shudder under braking if bad enough. If it doesn't clear after a session or so, then its a problem. You aint felt shudder til you have felt it in a race car with no rubber in the suspension!
 

steveespo

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Kyle
CT 16s and CT 20s seem to be sensitive to bedding procedure when new pads go on new rotors. I had the shudder and transfer a few different days when I just went out on fresh pads and drove the brakes hard on the first laps. The transfer does go away if you drag them a little around the paddock after a cool down of a half hour or so, street driving cleans them up too. After that I don't think I had the problem with the same pads again. Carbotechs also don't seem to glaze. I now run XP 24 compound and after 4 sets I haven't had pad shudder or really uneven transfer. I know I'm the forum CT fanboi but those are my facts.
Steve
 
That would be interesting if XP24s were magically better than the others, transfer-wise.

When I called up CT and said "hey, what should I put on my mustang" they said 20/10... no mention of 24s. Any idea why?
 
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I just switched to a 24/10 setup from 20/10 and I think they're awesome, too. I haven't experienced uneven transfer with the 24s like I did with the 20s.
 

Bill Pemberton

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Was running the 24s last year and actually do 8s on the back, and they are superb -- there are many Carbotech Fans on this site and was using the 24s almost as soon as the old Grand Am guys got them with great results. If you are a deep braker or trailbrake , they are much better than the 16s or 20s ever thought of being. Pay a little extra and get them pre-bedded and though it has been said many times before, clean the heck out of your rotors before putting on new pads so the new material beds well.
 
Damn, I wish carbotech had mentioned the 24s when I asked 'em.... at least in a discussion that lists the pros and cons of each.

Interestingly, I showed them a picture of these rotors and they mentioned that it might be that these rotors have "one of those special coatings". Anyone know what that means? (they haven't replied to explain it yet)

-Bob
 

pufferfish

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Bob,
your rotors from this thread and pads from the other thread are very similar to the issues i had 2 years ago when i was trying to find a carbotech compound. i tried XP16 and XP20 on the front (with XP10 on the rear for both) and they did the same thing. i asked carbotech and they swore the 16 or 20 is the right pad for our cars. i ignored basically, um, everyone and dropped down to XP12 to test and have been smitten ever since.

XP12/10 with slotted rotors and GOOD (read: Blowfish Racing Ducts ;D ) brake cooling ducts and i never had the issue again. i have no idea why this happens and why some have great success with the carbotech prescribed recipe and others like us do not. it must have to do with braking style, but what about it, is the million dollar question?

i have never had success getting that glazing off the rotors without machining and you don't want less heat dissipating material, so machining should not be done to a tracked car. so, i suggest you get new rotors and prebed XP12's. i have 1 set left in my personal stock, if you want to get some asap.
 

PeteInCT

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pufferfish said:
Bob,
your rotors from this thread and pads from the other thread are very similar to the issues i had 2 years ago when i was trying to find a carbotech compound. i tried XP16 and XP20 on the front (with XP10 on the rear for both) and they did the same thing. i asked carbotech and they swore the 16 or 20 is the right pad for our cars. i ignored basically, um, everyone and dropped down to XP12 to test and have been smitten ever since.

XP12/10 with slotted rotors and GOOD (read: Blowfish Racing Ducts ;D ) brake cooling ducts and i never had the issue again. i have no idea why this happens and why some have great success with the carbotech prescribed recipe and others like us do not. it must have to do with braking style, but what about it, is the million dollar question?

i have never had success getting that glazing off the rotors without machining and you don't want less heat dissipating material, so machining should not be done to a tracked car. so, i suggest you get new rotors and prebed XP12's. i have 1 set left in my personal stock, if you want to get some asap.


My $0.02

Blowfish has this right, +1. Pads are like Religion, everyone believes what works for them. That said, even Carbotech doesn't recommend XP24's for the Boss because it's "not the right pad" (no disrespect for those that use it and like it). Even the XP-20 is not correct. As a point of reference, the XP20 is recommended for a Z06 with slicks. Hate to admit it guys but a much quicker car than ours. The XP-12/10 is correct. If that's not enough brakes there may be another issue.

It is also correct that improper bedding can cause glazing but it's a temporary issue, or at least should be. When bedding in the pads they need to go through a very hot bath followed by proper cooling. If you have brake cooling ducts, best thing to do is block them off.

-Pete
 

steveespo

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Carbotech™ XP24™

XP24™ is the pinnacle compound of the extremely successful XP™ Series of compounds engineered by Carbotech™. This compound is based on the same fundamentals that exist in all other Carbotech™ formulations. XP24™ has even more initial bite, more overall bite, and more torque along with the most linear torque curve we have ever offered. The thermal characteristics are of the highest Carbotech™ offers along with one of the highest coefficient of friction ratings offered by anyone in the braking industry. This compound is the longest wearing compound Carbotech™ offers as it was originally engineered for endurance applications at the highest pro racing levels. This revolutionary new compound has been extremely successful with open wheel, closed wheel, sprint and endurance applications. XP24™ has a temperature range of 400°F to 2000°F+ (204°C to 1093°C+). Carbotech™ XP24™ is NOT recommended for use as a daily driven street pad due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise along with the necessary heat required to work properly.

I think a 3875 lb Mustang braking from 135 mph to 65 mph creates more heat and load on a pad than a 3450 lb Corvette braking from similar speeds especially since the Z06 has more pad surface area than the Mustang. I run the 24s for performance and durability over other compounds and brands I have tried. (Not Pagid because they don't make the shape yet, with the 2015 running the 6 piston Brembos I'm sure that will change.)
Steve
 
I was thinking along the same lines as steve... I figure there aren't too many cars that are as heavy and high HP as ours on the track. From where we are now, the cars mostly get *lighter* as they get tracked more, right?

Also, when you read the XP24 paragraph... It just kinda says "this is the best pad" not "this pad is only for awesome cars".... I wonder if we read too much into the numeric naming strategy.
 

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