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What are everyone's opinions on CC plate brands?

SavetheManuals

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What are everyone's opinions on CC plate brands? Vorshlag and Ground Control Race plates sound great but they are a good bit more expensive than MM or others in the <$300 category, which get pretty good reviews.
Are the Vorshlag/GC worth it?
My car is street/track so I do want to be able to adjust back and forth between street and track settings with relative ease.
 

JDee

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I bought MM plates. Had a stud snap at 7 lbs less than their rated torque spec. I was bringing them down following their directions to go a few lbs at a time. When I called them, the guy on the phone instantly blamed my torque wrench. However, it was the last of the 6 studs that snapped so that was just offensive as hell to me, why did none of the others snap if that was the cause? They eventually sent me an entire new top plate, all I needed and asked for was a couple of studs, but they charged me $25 shipping on it. Also, I am only getting -2 camber on left side and about -1.9 on the right with them, I already had -1 stock, so not much gain there. Not overly thrilled with the whole process and I regret not going with a better solution. Biggest downside is I no longer trust these studs, so I just leave them at max all the time as I'm concerned about breaking another stud. Others may have had a better experience, but I'll be going elsewhere next time.
 

ArizonaBOSS

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I have used both MM and Vorshlag with good luck on both. The Vorshlag have a couple features that make them easier to install (welded stud "cage") and somewhat more repeatable to adjust (adjustment pointer).
 

JDee

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Well, like I said, others may have had a better experience. I'm trying to be fair, but I just had a real bad impression of the company from that experience, where in any support manual does it say to blame the customer right off the bat? The breakage of that part cost me 3 weeks of prep time while I waited for the wheels to grind, the $25 shipping was supposed to be air freight, went USPS instead. Never again for me, glad it worked out OK for you.
 

Gab

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My personal experience, here. I had MM plates, and while the main plate and spherical bearing are well-built and robust, I don’t like the fact that they reuse the OEM thrust bearing - the plastic race is a POS and not well suited to loads with sticky tires. Also, the studs and nylon lock nuts aren’t very good quality, meaning if you adjust them often, they’ll fail (snapped stud in my case) or wear out (nylon no longer provides adequate friction to lock). I also could only manage ~ 2.1 degrees of negative camber, and opening the strut tower hole didn’t help - the main plate contacts the strut tower, preventing further adjustment without the use of a cut-off wheel.

The Vorshslag plates are overbuilt, don’t use OEM thrust bearings (but use a rather heavy-duty aftermarket thrust bearings), have a pointer for camber settings, have more caster and camber adjustability, and are easier to install. Yes they’re more expensive, but definitely worth it.

One other point in Vorshlags favor - the MM plates aren’t able to be converted for use on a true coil over using 60mm springs. Also, the conversion kits for 2.5” and 2.25” springs are limited two a few coilover brands, and their thrust bearing isn’t well sealed to the elements (it uses a thin o-ring, whereas Vorshlags bearing is a true sealed radial bearing.

If it sounds like Vorshlag is the winner, that’s because it is. As a mechanical engineer, I appreciate the design and execution of their plates.
 

xr7

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+1 for the Vorshlag plates. Only minor change I recommend, paint the reference lines a contrasting color. I had a hard time seeing the reference lines looking thru the hole in the strut tower. I was also able to adjust the caster without pulling the strut assembly. It's tight working thru the strut tower hole, but it can be done.
 

Drlee50

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I installed centric bolts on the struts with my MM CC plates. This allowed me to go past -3 degrees in total camber. I have had the car on a hunter alignment rack a few times and have it set up so full in is at -2.5 degrees and full out is -1.4. I was worried about the effects on toe with switching back and forth. Turns out it only xhsnged a max of 1/16 between 2.5 and 1.4. So good to go. I tried -3.0 degrees and was too much for my tires. Ate up the insides. Although, I was running some toe out at that time 1/8" and that may have been responsible. I'm running 0 toe now +/- 1/16.
By the way, I have 1 stud that also broke in my MM plate. Been running it that way for a year. Been ok. When I pull it off, I'll weld it up and make it stronger. Don't feel like paying for yet another alignment so it can wait.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
 

Grant 302

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Are the Vorshlag/GC worth it?
I think so. Nicely engineered IMO.

I've had two sets of MM plates and had no issues. They adjust fine for me between street and track setting. No complaints, but I wish they had more adjustment range. I also used the first set with Eibach camber bolts for a while.

I didn't get Vorshlag plates because they weren't out when I got my first set, and the CorteX coilover kit came with MM hardware.

-------

Always use a torque wrench when tightening *any* plate down. Every brand has had stud breakage. Just a function of the small size hardware.
 

JAJ

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The Vorshlag plates are beautifully made and rock solid. Vorshlag is very clear that they don't add NVH, and in my experience, that's true - the plates themselves are silent. However, the all-metal construction means they transmit sound really well and that provides a path for other NVH that originates under the car.
 

JAJ

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Interesting, I noticed no increase in NVH with mine.
I never really detected an increase of sound when I put my Vorshlag plates on, but recently I was doing some changes on my car that involved assembling a second set of struts, and rather than buying a second set of Vorschlag plates, I picked up a set of Steeda plates. They use the rubber covered factory thrust bearing and the first thing I noticed is that the car is now a lot quieter.
 

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