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What is the matter with the brembo bleeder screws?

I bled my brakes a week ago and this time used a snap on inch-Ib torque wrench and torqued the brembo bleeder screws to 159 as per the shop manual.
The annoying part is that they still sweat at the end of each session. Nothing like oozing or so, but sweating :mad: the brake pedal was fine, no major deterioration in the brake performance too.

Your inputs are appreciated
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
Mine seem to stay dry, but I'll keep track of my new right front caliper.
I'll be at Brainerd MN this weekend and keep a close eye on them after each 30 minute session.
 
13Boss#3328 said:
I bled my brakes a week ago and this time used a snap on inch-Ib torque wrench and torqued the brembo bleeder screws to 159 as per the shop manual.
The annoying part is that they still sweat at the end of each session. Nothing like oozing or so, but sweating :mad: the brake pedal was fine, no major deterioration in the brake performance too.

Your inputs are appreciated
I've had this issue also. Moved to the Goodridge speed bleeders which come coated with thread sealant and have had no weeping since:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ONZNV4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

JScheier

Too Hot for the Boss!
steveespo said:
When you bleed do you use a paper towel to absorb the small amount of fluid that stays in the bleed nipple. This gets hot on track and dribble down from under the cap to the base of the bleed screw.

^x2. I get this all the time unless I'm really careful cleaning up <or> I clean out the groove around the bleed valve with brake parts cleaner.
 
At the end of each bleed I do not necessarily dry the nipples out.
For the next flush I will make sure everything is dry.
If nothing worked then I will get the Goodridge speed bleeder as suggested by Nick.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
define 'sweat'.

If you mean weeping at the base of the screw, then the screw is just not seated properly.

If there's anything coming from the hole on top, then keep it clean. Like Steve, I keep the bleeders clean. I use a little rolled up piece of paper towel to soak up all the fluid inside the hole and wipe up outside before replacing the dust cap. This helps keep the cap from deteriorating and lets me be 100% sure there is no leaking fluid under visual inspection.
 
168
36
To eliminate this I vacuum bleed with a Mity Vac.Use a box wrench and place the bleeder over it.Keep vacuum until you close the bleeder screw and slowly pull off bleeder and you will have a dry bleeder screw.
Guy
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Next time, make sure all the bleeders are free of fluid and you'll know for sure if it's weeping.

IIRC, you had one stripped out before? If all your screws are weeping, then maybe they've all been over-torqued at some point. That would be bad news.


gww52 said:
To eliminate this I vacuum bleed with a Mity Vac.Use a box wrench and place the bleeder over it.Keep vacuum until you close the bleeder screw and slowly pull off bleeder and you will have a dry bleeder screw.
Guy

I do this too, but it never takes all the fluid with it. A good wiping will make sure there's no fluid to disguise or misdiagnose a leak.
 
Grant 302 said:
IIRC, you had one stripped out before? If all your screws are weeping, then maybe they've all been over-torqued at some point. That would be bad news.

That could be the case with the right side caliber, but the left side one was brand new and I made sure to never torque the screws anymore without a proper torque wrench.
The bummer will be if my snap on torque wrench is not calibrated correctly.
 

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