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What to change/uprade for the Drag strip?

unrealford said:
Try running a bias drag radial, or a 15 inch Radial Street. If u run 17 or larger there's no enough sidewall and you'll never get good enough traction and your drive train will thank you. It will take the shock.
I've got 50 plus runs on my. Torsen, and it works fine.
[email protected] on stock factory tires.
And [email protected] on drag radials. Stock tune on both recorded runs.

Really? well thanks for that info. Im going to have to think that over. Do you think I could get by with the mt 305 35 19 on the frpp rims or will something pay the ultimate price?
 

unrealford

Mustang owner since 84
521
0
KonaBlue302 said:
Really? well thanks for that info. Im going to have to think that over. Do you think I could get by with the mt 305 35 19 on the frpp rims or will something pay the ultimate price?
Well I think you will lose enough traction before it does anything to hurt it.
 

unrealford

Mustang owner since 84
521
0
Here's better explanation on tires, they also talk about the MT Pros I told Justin to purchase.
http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/wheels-tires/tire-comparison-mts-et-street-radal-versus-et-street-radial-ii/
pyzeda7e.jpg
This is me this summer at the True Street Competition
 
unrealford said:
Here's better explanation on tires, they also talk about the MT Pros I told Justin to purchase.
http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/wheels-tires/tire-comparison-mts-et-street-radal-versus-et-street-radial-ii/
pyzeda7e.jpg
This is me this summer at the True Street Competition

Great reading. Looks like I can use the m/t 305 35 19's for everyday and track use. Thanks for the link, It answered my questions perfectly.

I recommend reading the link if your into drag racing.....good info.

Thanks,
Dave
 
unrealford said:
Are you dumping clutch?
I slip the clutch slightly when I launch.
1.65. 60fts

Yes, I dump the clutch using the factory Two Step. What I don't like about riding the clutch is that's it difficult to stay consistent. I hope to find the right RPM to lauch at on the two step.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
unrealford said:
Here's better explanation on tires, they also talk about the MT Pros I told Justin to purchase.
http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/wheels-tires/tire-comparison-mts-et-street-radal-versus-et-street-radial-ii/
pyzeda7e.jpg
This is me this summer at the True Street Competition
I haven't got to try them out yet but man they look mean. Consider this I got the LMR kit 17x4.5 front and 15x10 rears with tires for 1510 with sway bar relocation kit. If you want the same set up you will have to call as they don't list the pro radial on their site.
 

unrealford

Mustang owner since 84
521
0
seca954 said:
Yes, I dump the clutch using the factory Two Step. What I don't like about riding the clutch is that's it difficult to stay consistent. I hope to find the right RPM to lauch at on the two step.
I use stock key on factory tires, and use Trackey for Drag Radials. I don't like the 2 step. I know someone who tried it and was using 4,500 rpm
 
I can tell you from experience that changing the LCA and UCA will help you get down the track with any tire you put on it. The shifter was next for me and I also did a McLeod RXT clutch. But this is when I went a little crazy and put the D-1 procharger, ID100 injectors, return style fuel system, headers, and a few other mods.
My best time so far is 10.50 @ 133 mph. My 60' was 1.5. I'm launching the car hard, usually 4500 to 5000 rpm. I'm also changing the driveshaft now.

J.Shoot
 

unrealford

Mustang owner since 84
521
0
JShoot said:
I can tell you from experience that changing the LCA and UCA will help you get down the track with any tire you put on it. The shifter was next for me and I also did a McLeod RXT clutch. But this is when I went a little crazy and put the D-1 procharger, ID100 injectors, return style fuel system, headers, and a few other mods.
My best time so far is 10.50 @ 133 mph. My 60' was 1.5. I'm launching the car hard, usually 4500 to 5000 rpm. I'm also changing the driveshaft now.

J.Shoot
How well did you do before poweradder?
 
KonaBlue302 said:
Im getting ready to start running the 1/4 mile. Im going to be using MT Drag Radials 305/35/19/ What are the weak links in our Boss cars that need to be addressed as to not be breaking down at the track. What are necessary mods for strength and peace of mind or What is most likely to break or cause problems in order of importance or most likely to break down..... 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc.

Those of you who race have already been thru this trial and error period, so your wisdom is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for the help.

Dave

I added a few mods that really helped:

T/A Rear End Girdle (help with Torsen)
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA%5F1806B

CHE K Member: This is one of the best mods. The reason (IMHO) of the 1-2 lockouts under heavy load is not necessarily the clutch or the shifter (although I have the MGW and wouldn't do without it, absolutely the best 2-3 shift) the MT-82's have "remote mounted shifter" and under heavy load the geometry will get out of whack, which can lead to a crap shoot for heavy load shifting especially 1-2 or 3-4. I installed the CHE K member (competition model) with v8 engine torque limiters and it completely cured the dreaded lock out.

http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-208.htm

I also have the MT ET Street Radial II's. No problem on the driveshaft and changed the launch on the car. As someone else has said, use the MT's for straight driving only!


Unrealford has some great advice: He doesn't launch higher than 1700 on the Pirelli's (I believe?) and doesn't power shift. I stopped trying to power shift the Boss and just practiced fast shifting.

I also have other mods that are in my signature, like LCA's and the Griggs Racing Torque Arm Kit and that really helped eliminate wheel hop.
 

unrealford

Mustang owner since 84
521
0
Hi
Boss949 said:
I added a few mods that really helped:

T/A Rear End Girdle (help with Torsen)
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA%5F1806B

CHE K Member: This is one of the best mods. The reason (IMHO) of the 1-2 lockouts under heavy load is not necessarily the clutch or the shifter (although I have the MGW and wouldn't do without it, absolutely the best 2-3 shift) the MT-82's have "remote mounted shifter" and under heavy load the geometry will get out of whack, which can lead to a crap shoot for heavy load shifting especially 1-2 or 3-4. I installed the CHE K member (competition model) with v8 engine torque limiters and it completely cured the dreaded lock out.

http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-208.htm

I also have the MT ET Street Radial II's. No problem on the driveshaft and changed the launch on the car. As someone else has said, use the MT's for straight driving only!


Unrealford has some great advice: He doesn't launch higher than 1700 on the Pirelli's (I believe?) and doesn't power shift. I stopped trying to power shift the Boss and just practiced fast shifting.

I also have other mods that are in my signature, like LCA's and the Griggs Racing Torque Arm Kit and that really helped eliminate wheel hop.
Does the Torque limiter for the remote Shifter add any NVH noise?
Now that I have a new clutch next yr I'm going back to Drag Radials MT Pros.
I'd like to get into 11.7s with my Boss with Factory Tune, Exhaust

Mods on my car are, :::Upper Control Arm, and MGW. Shifter.
With a best on stock tires 12.24
Same mods with just drag radials 11.92,,backed up by a 11.97.
@1700ft DA
 
unrealford said:
Hi Does the Torque limiter for the remote Shifter add any NVH noise?
Now that I have a new clutch next yr I'm going back to Drag Radials MT Pros.
I'd like to get into 11.7s with my Boss with Factory Tune, Exhaust

Mods on my car are, :::Upper Control Arm, and MGW. Shifter.
With a best on stock tires 12.24
Same mods with just drag radials 11.92,,backed up by a 11.97.
@1700ft DA

The NVH seems real minimal to me. I also added the whiteline tranny bushing. I think I'm hearing more NVH for the Torque Arm Kit and pan hard bar from the rear of the car. But then again I'm used to not having the "stock ride". IMHO, the K Member with torque limiters changed the shifting so much to the good, that it's worth any NVH.

Check out the website and call Chuck Dworek, it will be worth your time.
 

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