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What tools are needed to replace an inner tie rod end?

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Guys,

The only thing keeping me from moving my car around and getting it in a trailer to get some quotes on fixing it is a broken tie rod end. It's the inner one on the pass side. What tools are needed for this job?

Andy
aka Super Dave Osborne
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
steveespo said:
Make sure they figure replacing the EPAS rack if that tie rod got broken. A Ford Racing unit wouldn't be bad. Good luck and hang in there.

That's what I'd do in the same situation. I just dug through the posts about what happened with your car Fat Boss...and I'm glad you're okay and looking to get your car back together. Hope to meet you out at LS in August! :)
 
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TMSBOSS said:
Andy

Links to the shop manual for our cars.

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=711

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=796&viewfile=Tie Rod - Inner.pdf

Wow, awesome, thanks! My first priority is being able to move the car.
 
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steveespo said:
Andy
Make sure they figure replacing the EPAS rack if that tie rod got broken. A Ford Racing unit wouldn't be bad. Good luck and hang in there.
Steve

Thanks Steve, it looks like it'll get totaled and I'll be on the hook to fix it if I buy it back. At $1k I would surely want to see if it needed replacement.
 
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Grant 302 said:
That's what I'd do in the same situation. I just dug through the posts about what happened with your car Fat Boss...and I'm glad you're okay and looking to get your car back together. Hope to meet you out at LS in August! :)

Thanks Grant! I'll start a thread on the rebuild if I do end up with the car. I'm going to try and buy it back if the price is right. I'll be there in August for sure one way or the other.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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Fat Boss said:
Thanks Steve, it looks like it'll get totaled and I'll be on the hook to fix it if I buy it back. At $1k I would surely want to see if it needed replacement.

Andy I'm such an idiot, forgot how this happened. Won't discuss on open forum.
Hope it works out well for you, again.
Steve
 
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It's ok Steve, I'm not trying to commit fraud or anything so I don't have anything to hide.
 
TMSBOSS said:
Andy

Links to the shop manual for our cars.

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=711

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=796&viewfile=Tie Rod - Inner.pdf

This is also a sticky in the "How-To" section. While many things will be the same with a 2011 GT and a Boss, such as tie-rods or removing a bumper and so on, it is not Boss 302 specific.
 
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The manual says to loosen both sides at the same time, and when re-installing I should have another person hold a wrench on the other side of the rack. If I'm not RnR'ing the other side, will the strength of the rack (and the guts inside) allow me to break the 74 lbs/ft of torque plus thread locker on the side I'm working on without messing anything up? I'm assuming I will be able to since if one side loosens first, which it will, then the other side will have no help from the side that loosens first. Tightening is the same dilemma, since I really don't want to buy another $95 tie rod end kit to get another custom boot and clamps from it.
 
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Tie rod is installed. Special tools is really just the CV Joint Boot Clamp Pliers. You want to use a torque wrench where you can, but in this case I had a hard time finding a 40mm crows foot. The cheapest one I saw online was like 110 bucks if you wanted a forged piece. The online manual link above will give you the torque specs, but where the tie rod end screws into the rack the value is 74 lbs/ft, the jam nut between tie rods is 41 and the K Member Brace you need to remove for access is 48.

I used a large crescent wrench for the inner tie rod "Socket" where it bolts to the rack.

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Here's the broken rod end. Exactly 22 turns to unthread the stud, so I threaded my new rod end the same number to start.

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Don't forget to put on the new steering stop and some RED threadlocker on the threads that go into the rack. I don't think I have the blue steering stop on 100% since I did not hear the snap as it seats into the groove. I did turn the steering lock to lock immediately so I'm pretty sure it locked in then.

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Here's a shot of the special pliers needed. Those that have had CV Joint cars might already have this tool. I have CV's on my dune buggy but have never had them off. Cost was $12 at NAPA.

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A poor photo but here's the crimp in the clamp for the boot made by the CV Pliers. The manual specifically says not to use a zip tie since the rack creates a vacuum under turning and you don't want to suck in water. Ok.

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All in all I'd rate this job 4 bloody knuckles out of 10. It'd be 3, but I know some people get scared working on steering stuff. Oh, the part number for the Inner Tie Rods is BR3Z-3280-C, the Jam Nut for where the Inner and Out Tie Rods join is W713882-S437, and I'm pretty sure the Outer Tie Rod End NUT part number is W705606-S440 with a torque value of 59 lbs/ft. Since I did not remove the Outer Tie Rod End, I didn't verify if this NUT actually fits. The guy at the dealer said it would.

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