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Which driveshaft safety loop for a 1 piece drive shaft ?

I'm wondering if I need a front and a rear loop for my Boss since I have a DSS 1 piece drive shaft. I am looking at the BMR units as well as the Steeda. The BMR units look a bit beefier.

If I only need one, which position is more advantageous/safe ?
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
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3,245
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5-10 Years
Illinois
Rusty67 said:
I'm wondering if I need a front and a rear loop for my Boss since I have a DSS 1 piece drive shaft. I am looking at the BMR units as well as the Steeda. The BMR units look a bit beefier.

If I only need one, which position is more advantageous/safe ?

Driveshaft loops were designed to prevent a car from pole vaulting if the shaft breaks. This occurs when the shaft breaks at or near the trans.

A front mount driveshaft loop prevents this.

I also have the DSS shaft and I installed a loop from stifflers. Bolts to the rear trans mount, no drilling.
 
Do you think that the extra bracing is beneficial at all in the rear location or just added weight ? I know these s197 platforms are a much stiffer chassis then I am used to working with. My 67 coupe and my 03 Mach 1 are very flexible without subframe connectors so the first thing I wanted to do on the Boss was subframes but everyone says they are a huge waste of money on these cars unless it is an all out full blown race machine.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,238
3,245
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
Rusty67 said:
Do you think that the extra bracing is beneficial at all in the rear location or just added weight ? I know these s197 platforms are a much stiffer chassis then I am used to working with. My 67 coupe and my 03 Mach 1 are very flexible without subframe connectors so the first thing I wanted to do on the Boss was subframes but everyone says they are a huge waste of money on these cars unless it is an all out full blown race machine.
Simply bridging from one side of the driveshaft tunnel to the other may only reduce flex between the two points. This cannot be much.
 
Rusty67 said:
Do you think that the extra bracing is beneficial at all in the rear location or just added weight ? I know these s197 platforms are a much stiffer chassis then I am used to working with. My 67 coupe and my 03 Mach 1 are very flexible without subframe connectors so the first thing I wanted to do on the Boss was subframes but everyone says they are a huge waste of money on these cars unless it is an all out full blown race machine.

That's right...Sub frame connectors aren't necessary unless you are building a race car. And even then, a properly designed cage will serve the same purpose. The S197 chassis is light years better/stiffer than earlier Mustangs. No comparison. 40+ years of advances in chassis design, engineering, and materials makes all the difference.

Oh, and +1 on the Stiffler's DS safety loop. Well designed, substantial, easy to install.
 
158
29
I have the Stifflers DS Loop.Very strong,easy install,lots of clearance to the DSS driveshaft.
Guy
 
I installed the BMR unit and it is indeed a very stout unit. Just beware, that if you are installing a 4" driveshaft that you will have to manufacture a piece of metal to raise the loop up about 3/8" from the included bracket because the new driveshaft will be too close to the loop otherwise. The BMR literature did not mention this when I ordered their loop. I would have looked elsewhere had I known this information.

I don't believe you will have this problem if you are installing the 3 1/2" driveshaft.
 
So it sounds like the consensus is that no additional bracing is needed and that the stifflers unit is the way to go ?

Also, front only loop is needed with a 1 piece drive shaft.
 

TymeSlayer

Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...
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Brewmaster said:
I installed the BMR unit and it is indeed a very stout unit. Just beware, that if you are installing a 4" driveshaft that you will have to manufacture a piece of metal to raise the loop up about 3/8" from the included bracket because the new driveshaft will be too close to the loop otherwise. The BMR literature did not mention this when I ordered their loop. I would have looked elsewhere had I known this information.

I don't believe you will have this problem if you are installing the 3 1/2" driveshaft.

My BMR came with shims to lift up the loop which I did not put on the first tyme around. Had no issues with this and my 3-1/2" DDS. But after putting on my FRPP lowering T springs, I found that on hard bumps, their was some contact so I had to have it shimmed up. Works just great now.
 
TymeSlayer said:
My BMR came with shims to lift up the loop which I did not put on the first tyme around. Had no issues with this and my 3-1/2" DDS. But after putting on my FRPP lowering T springs, I found that on hard bumps, their was some contact so I had to have it shimmed up. Works just great now.

I wish they I would have known BMR had shims, or better yet, if they would have just sent them to me, but they did not. I had to have my shop manufacture something. I mentioned to my guys if they could just put in some stainless steel washers and they said no way, they were making something worthy of the Boss and if anybody ever looked at it, it would be something quality. It is nice to have a shop that gives a s**t about you and your car.
 

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