Which Oil?

[ace72ace]

I knew what you meant.

???

It's implausible to me.

Ok so I admit to sarcasm here. However, the original fill isn't even a true full synthetic, so already Motorcraft simply can't hold up over time like a full synthetic can. Here's some more info.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2012-2013-boss-302-mustang-373/805915-official-gt-5-0-boss-302-uoa-thread.html#post11152853

 

[Smilieboy]

Ok so I admit to sarcasm here. However, the original fill isn't even a true full synthetic, so already Motorcraft simply can't hold up over time like a full synthetic can. Here's some more info.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2012-2013-boss-302-mustang-373/805915-official-gt-5-0-boss-302-uoa-thread.html#post11152853

Actually there is a legitimate reason for not using a full synthetic on the initial fill. This is so the motor develops its wear patterns effectively and breaks in right.

 

[four-walling]

Ok so I admit to sarcasm here. However, the original fill isn't even a true full synthetic, so already Motorcraft simply can't hold up over time like a full synthetic can. Here's some more info.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2012-2013-boss-302-mustang-373/805915-official-gt-5-0-boss-302-uoa-thread.html#post11152853

A more meaningful chart would show what Mustang engines have failed within, say, 100K miles.

Aside that, who cares about shear ratios, IMHO.

Here is a list of Mustangs for sale with at least 100K mileage on cars.com. I doubt these "beaters" had synthetic oil in them.

http://www.cars.com/for-sale/used/ford/mustang/_/N-ma9ZffzZgr4Zm5dZm9m?mkId=20015&mdId=21712&rd=100000&mlgId=28858&zc=92101&PMmt=1-1-0&stkTypId=28881&rpp=50&feedSegId=28705&searchSource=SORT&crSrtFlds=stkTypId-feedSegId-mkId-mdId-mlgId&pgId=2102&sf1Nm=miles&sf1Dir=DESC&sf2Nm=price&sf2Dir=DESC

 

[DKL]

Wow, looks like Amsoil 10w-40 is the way to go..thanks for the heads up on the tests

 

[zzyzx]

Here's a fun little poke at the bees nest:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cChm-dqZts[/youtube]

 

[PJWANNABE]

I'm a low-information oil user. I use whatever the dealer tells me to put in. :

 

[steveespo]

Here's a fun little poke at the bees nest:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cChm-dqZts[/youtube]

I run the Motul 300V partly for this reason, mostly for its ability to hold its viscosity during high temperature, high rpm conditions. I use 15W50 300V in the summer months and Mobil 1 0W40 European Formula (Ester base stock) during the cold fall/winter months. Motul is very expensive, and for street driven, occasional drag strip or canyon running the Motorcraft oil is fine, but if you are tracking your car and do sustained high rpm (5000-7500) then I recommend an ester based oil such as Motul, Amsoil, Castrol TWS, or Mobil Euro/Racing. When looking for Racing oils be careful because some have additional zinc and molybdenum additives for flat tapper camshafts, these are excellent wear preventing additives but will pollute catalytic converters and ruin them. Most oil companies now make oils with lower zinc for modern roller tappet or finger followers on OHC engines such as the Motul, Mobil and Castrol listed above, Amsoil hase a little more zinc but is still listed as cat safe.

To sum up IMHO if you are a street driver with only an occasional track day or drag day then Motorcraft oil is fine and Ford will warranty your car.
If you are crazy and run 1500 track miles a season and see oil temps of 275-300 degrees and turn 7000 rpm for sustained 15-20 seconds at a time repeatedly over 30 minute sessions then a better quality Ester or double ester based full synthetic oil is what will prolong your engines life.
PS if you do drive your car like this, Ford won't warranty your car. Unless you have a special relationship with your service manager
YMMV
Steve

 

[ace72ace]

Actually there is a legitimate reason for not using a full synthetic on the initial fill. This is so the motor develops its wear patterns effectively and breaks in right.

Precisely why I didn't change the original fill until 6200 miles. I think I will do an Amsoil change for my next fill so I can have 3 different test samples. The Royal Purple test result should be in some time around June/July, will get my OEM oil test kit later this week and will post up results in a new thread.

 

[2012YellowBoss]

Come on now, Steve - I hope you agree with that vid because that oil is your personal preference not because it makes 19 HP more ;D <----- smiley face at the end of that sentence. That vid is the most ridiculous thing I have seen in a while.

If anyone could get 19 HP out of an oil change then every racing rule book would have rules on how much oil, the type and weight, the brand etc. If they did not then every racer would be mixing home brews in their basement, nothing gets by these guys. Remember Smokey Yunick and the large diameter fuel lines before there was a rule about them? After they harassed him over and over about his high gas mileage he finally drove to the tech area took out the gas tank and drove away!

Doesn't the old saying go like - If you are playing by the rules, you are not trying hard enough.

As far as oil goes, I read the great oil debate threads and look at the micron levels of Iridium or Osmium in the parts per million. Then I add to my engine what is put into real race cars. I know some use the Motorcraft and some use the Mobil One. I will stick with Motorcraft, been using it for many years in my car and trucks and in the Boss for tracking. I use the Mobil One when I get a better price on it.

In the end things like changing the oil on time are more important then anything else.

 

[steveespo]

Yes the 19hp increase with an oil change is silly and I use the Motul for the viscosity stability and high temp protection. Our engines see very high 280+ temps on track so a good oil will protect and add cooling support. I switched because during a 2 day summer event at Summit Point I saw my hot idle oil pressure go from the normal 31 psi to 22 psi at the end of session with the Mobil 1. After switching to the. 300V the oil pressure stays at 30-32 at idle and 65 from 2500 rpm and up.

Motorcraft oil is just fine I am not knocking it. A seiko tells time just as well as a Rolex. Or something like that.
Steve

 

[2012YellowBoss]

Motorcraft oil is just fine I am not knocking it.

I know you're not knocking anything, just having a little fun.

I switched because during a 2 day summer event at Summit Point I saw my hot idle oil pressure go from the normal 31 psi to 22 psi at the end of session with the Mobil 1. After switching to the. 300V the oil pressure stays at 30-32 at idle and 65 from 2500 rpm and up.

So you are saying in this case the lack of equipment is working in my favor, no gauge = no fear ;D

 

[roywilk1960]

After 28 years in motor racing, I only use Mobil 1.
They make 5-50, get it from NAPA.
Never had a failure in any of my cars.
All the engine builders I have have dealt with use Mobil, (Honda, Cosworth, Ilmore)

 

[Justin]

I use what I can get locally. which happens to be either mobil 1 5w-50 or castrol 5w-50. so far so good. I dont "track" my car I do drag race here and there.