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Whiteline Watts Link strong enough for drifting?

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I was just wondering what your oppinions are about the whiteline watts link and if the center bolt will not fail over time when use my Boss for race tracks as well as for drifting. Just loud thinking, drifting might cause the stronger force on the center bolt when swapping from left to right and back in a drift.

And is anyone aware of issues someone had with the whiteline watts link? Searching via google did not show anything.

Link to the product I am talking about: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KDT916
 
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Honestly, I'd ask whiteline.
However, do note that the pumpkin was never designed with the intent to bear a suspension component--let alone one that laterally places the axle. I know people have tracked/autox'd it with success...but you'd be right in noting that the loads imposed during drifting (and the possible off road excursions because we're not all perfect!) would be greater.

Why not consider a frame mounted solution? And then weld the axle mounted arms on (rather than bolt--you wouldnt ever want these to lose alignment or get displaced accidentally--especially in a drift situation!).
 
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boro92 said:
Honestly, I'd ask whiteline.
Was an obvious and good advice :) and they responsed very fast, here the answer I got:
A) Shouldn’t be an issue with track use, you just have to be sure to inspect the parts before and after every race for any sort of issue that may cause failure.
B) Should not be an issue with the center pivot bolt as it is a Grade 10.9. However, if tracking the or drifting the car on a regular basis, I would pull the bolts and inspect them for bolt stretch. If they become too stretched we can always send you another one.
 
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Any other opinions there?

FYI, what I got as well is:
The watts link is definitely a stout setup and you shouldn't experience any issues with the type of driving you're looking to do with it. The watts links from Whiteline was actually all in road course settings as well as some pretty intense drift testing by Vaughn Gittin jr. So If it worked for him I'm sure it's going to work for you. :-D

and:
The supplied bolts are Grade 10.9.
I only recommended checking them before each event as a precautionary measure if the car is going to be tracked on a daily basis.
If you check them every few events you should be just fine.


I am currently still not sure if I should go with this setup or not. I am torn between the benefits I want with this and the risk of a failure, as I do not want to have to check the setup everytime prior or after an event...
 
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Orange said:
Any other opinions there?

FYI, what I got as well is:
The watts link is definitely a stout setup and you shouldn't experience any issues with the type of driving you're looking to do with it. The watts links from Whiteline was actually all in road course settings as well as some pretty intense drift testing by Vaughn Gittin jr. So If it worked for him I'm sure it's going to work for you. :-D

and:
The supplied bolts are Grade 10.9.
I only recommended checking them before each event as a precautionary measure if the car is going to be tracked on a daily basis.
If you check them every few events you should be just fine.


I am currently still not sure if I should go with this setup or not. I am torn between the benefits I want with this and the risk of a failure, as I do not want to have to check the setup everytime prior or after an event...

Not sure if checking setup prior to events is a detractor against this setup. That should be standard practice anyhow -- pre and post event, one needs to inspect rotors, brake lines, pads, ball joints, tie rods, tires etc etc. There are a lot of safety elements which need to be considered when competing or even just basic lapping days. Even wheels themselves need to be inspected, as they can develop cracks and such. In such an environment, many components merely become disposable parts and require replacement over time. Not saying that the watts link is one of these--but regardless of what type of setup you end up getting, it's going to require periodic inspection. It's good practice, and it keeps you and others safe on the track.

OK, now that I'm off my soap box :) What other options are you considering? Cortex?
Not a fan of something like a Fays2?

How about a simple PHB with relocation kit to adjust roll center (Kenny Brown makes one)? A good rod ended PHB is going to make a tremendous difference on the back end (even if one does not adjust roll center!).
 
boro92 said:
How about a simple PHB with relocation kit to adjust roll center (Kenny Brown makes one)? A good rod ended PHB is going to make a tremendous difference on the back end (even if one does not adjust roll center!).
That's what I would do. Does Vaughn Gittin Jr. use a watts link on his Mustang?
 
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boro92 said:
Not sure if checking setup prior to events is a detractor against this setup. That should be standard practice anyhow -- pre and post event, one needs to inspect rotors, brake lines, pads, ball joints, tie rods, tires etc etc. There are a lot of safety elements which need to be considered when competing or even just basic lapping days. Even wheels themselves need to be inspected, as they can develop cracks and such. In such an environment, many components merely become disposable parts and require replacement over time. Not saying that the watts link is one of these--but regardless of what type of setup you end up getting, it's going to require periodic inspection. It's good practice, and it keeps you and others safe on the track.

Ok, I need to be more specific with what I wrote above. The way I understood checking the Whiteline Watts Link, and I assume this would apply to all Watts Link of this type, is to take bolts out to look for stretch, checking all the rubers, for that perhaps taking the Watts Links down at the wheels etc.. If I would have to do something like this prior every event (I do not compete), then it would be to much of effort of what I would be willing to invest. BUT I completly agree to what you stated. :)

boro92 said:
OK, now that I'm off my soap box :) What other options are you considering? Cortex?
Not a fan of something like a Fays2?

How about a simple PHB with relocation kit to adjust roll center (Kenny Brown makes one)? A good rod ended PHB is going to make a tremendous difference on the back end (even if one does not adjust roll center!).

I am also not a fan of something like Fays2 and the other option I am looking at is the PHB setup to start with. Regarding Cortex, I strongly assume it is about the same as the Whiteline unit.
 
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FWIW, Vaughn Griffin Jr's RTR-X car uses a watts link.
However, it is custom...and also happens to be bolted to the diff. The diff cover looks to be steel though.

hrdp-1202-1969-mustang-slideways-007.jpg
 
boro92 said:
FWIW, Vaughn Griffin Jr's RTR-X car uses a watts link.
However, it is custom...and also happens to be bolted to the diff. The diff cover looks to be steel though.
Not to mention a lot of other pieces there being reinforced. I think an occasional drift might be fine with a Cortex/Whiteline watts link but you might think twice if you plan on doing it a lot.
 
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NFSBOSS said:
Not to mention a lot of other pieces there being reinforced. I think an occasional drift might be fine with a Cortex/Whiteline watts link but you might think twice if you plan on doing it a lot.

I still continue to vote PHB :)

EDIT: arent there a ton of Corolla GT-S's drifting around with a PHB setup?
Stick with simple. Low maintenance, car was designed for it, mounting points are designed to take those stresses. Just get a rod ended one :)
Make some custom brackets if you need to play with roll center too!
 
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I will go with the PHB, play save and simple, thanks for all the feedbacks and advices! :)

boro92 said:
I still continue to vote PHB :)

EDIT: arent there a ton of Corolla GT-S's drifting around with a PHB setup?
Stick with simple. Low maintenance, car was designed for it, mounting points are designed to take those stresses. Just get a rod ended one :)
Make some custom brackets if you need to play with roll center too!

What is the big advantage rod ended vs. not rod ended? I am looking at these two from Ford Racing:
Ford Racing Adjustable Panhard Bar w/ Spherical Rod Ends / Original equipment on Cobra Jet race car: http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-adj-panhard-rod-0513.html
vs.
Ford Racing Adjsutable Pan Hard Bar / Service replacement part for the FR500S and BOSS302 R1 race car: http://www.lethalperformance.com/2012-2013-boss-mustang-302/suspension/panhard-bars/ford-racing-1/ford-racing-adjsutable-pan-hard-bar.html
 
I have a WL watgs link bnib im not using if anyone is looking.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I957 using Tapatalk 2
 
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Orange said:
I will go with the PHB, play save and simple, thanks for all the feedbacks and advices! :)

What is the big advantage rod ended vs. not rod ended? I am looking at these two from Ford Racing:
Ford Racing Adjustable Panhard Bar w/ Spherical Rod Ends / Original equipment on Cobra Jet race car: http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-adj-panhard-rod-0513.html
vs.
Ford Racing Adjsutable Pan Hard Bar / Service replacement part for the FR500S and BOSS302 R1 race car: http://www.lethalperformance.com/2012-2013-boss-mustang-302/suspension/panhard-bars/ford-racing-1/ford-racing-adjsutable-pan-hard-bar.html

Poly is a reduction in NVH honestly. It still allows some deflection.
For something as critical as a component which locates the axle laterally, I'd want a rod end.
Not to mention that if we're touching any suspension component, a key priority is increasing the precision of the car. A rod end which does not deflect, but also allows for zero binding will yield good results.
 

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