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You all said these would fit......

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So I got in on the APEX buy and got the 19X11 square setup....... I installed one front with a 1" spacer and the inside was hard up against my Coilover.... I put another 8mm in just to see how much more I needed, 8mm got it off the coil over but this is how far it sticks out... I think my front right now is at -2 degrees (but I haven't checked in a while)..... so -3 degrees is going to fix this? or am I missing something???? Tire is a 305/30... Falken RK-660....
tempImagebSI5MU.jpg
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,529
5,245
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
I run a 315-705-19 on 11” Apex with 2.4 neg camber on stock 350r suspension without a problem. I have 305’s on the front of my Boss on an 11x18 wheel cortex coil overs, they fit fine. Both use a 1” plate up front. The only rubbing I have is on the Boss where the tire rubs the brake duct at extreme lock. No idea why the apex wheels don’t fit your struts. Have you called Apex or Fortune Auto?
 
501
550
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Snowy North
What is the offser on your Apex wheel?

25mm spacer on 50mm or lower offset works unless your CO bottom perch is so low that it's into the tire...and that would be weird unless you have very long and/or super high-rate springs.

What camber plates?
 

Apex Wheels

Race Proven, Street Approved
Supporting Vendor
670
1,061
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Bay Area, CA
Fortune Auto
This is the issue. Unfortunately all coilovers that use that generic body design take up more space than the stock dampers or other coilovers such as MCS, JRi, and JRZ. You will need to make sure you don't have camber dialed in at the spindle and it all through the plates as well. We recommend -2.75* as a starting point for 11" front wheels, and I can tell you from experience with RT660s that -2* will not be near enough on a Mustang that sees track/autoX use.
 
This is the issue. Unfortunately all coilovers that use that generic body design take up more space than the stock dampers or other coilovers such as MCS, JRi, and JRZ. You will need to make sure you don't have camber dialed in at the spindle and it all through the plates as well. We recommend -2.75* as a starting point for 11" front wheels, and I can tell you from experience with RT660s that -2* will not be near enough on a Mustang that sees track/autoX use.
how do I know if camber is dialed in at the spindle?
The other thing that is unfortunate is all the reasons coming up after I buy the wheels and tires..............
 
Is the upper bolt hole at the spindle slotted? If so pull the spindle outboard to gain some extra room if it’s not already there. This removes camber at the spindle and gives more clearance between the shock body and tire, and you then dial it back in at the camber plate.

pic for reference.

A3FBD8D4-5706-43D8-99A6-EEBCF9AD2BE7.jpeg
 

yotah1

Ford Employee
386
598
Detroit
Instead of talking about coilovers and camber, maybe someone should have asked if you were putting these on a GT350, GT500, or standard Mustang. GT350 and GT500 have wider front fenders designed to cover the larger front wheels (19x10.5 being the smallest size on the GT350 fronts, with the R going 0.5" wider, and 500 doing the same).

All you can do, after setting it up so it doesn't rub against your coilover, is purchase a set of 2021 Mach 1 front fender wheel lip moldings that attaches to the inside of your fenders and gives you extra tire clearance.
 

Apex Wheels

Race Proven, Street Approved
Supporting Vendor
670
1,061
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Bay Area, CA
Instead of talking about coilovers and camber, maybe someone should have asked if you were putting these on a GT350, GT500, or standard Mustang.
This part doesn't matter though, as 11" wide wheels fit under the standard fenders just fine when setup correctly. The issue he's experiencing is directly related to the coilover and camber setup that's preventing the tire from sitting within or even with the fender lip. The Mach 1 fender spat would help cover up the excess (and clean up aero), but it's not the fix.

An easy way to ensure there's no camber at the spindle is to loosen both bolts a bit, and pull hard on the spindle towards you. Then make sure you continue to keep some outward pressure on the spindle while tightening the bolts back down (I've seen some cases where the threads of the bolt will pull the spindle back towards the strut a bit while it's being tightened, so keeping pressure will prevent that).
 
This part doesn't matter though, as 11" wide wheels fit under the standard fenders just fine when setup correctly. The issue he's experiencing is directly related to the coilover and camber setup that's preventing the tire from sitting within or even with the fender lip. The Mach 1 fender spat would help cover up the excess (and clean up aero), but it's not the fix.

An easy way to ensure there's no camber at the spindle is to loosen both bolts a bit, and pull hard on the spindle towards you. Then make sure you continue to keep some outward pressure on the spindle while tightening the bolts back down (I've seen some cases where the threads of the bolt will pull the spindle back towards the strut a bit while it's being tightened, so keeping pressure will prevent that).
Haven’t had a chance to get into it yet but just looking at where my coil over is sitting in the camber plate… there is a lot of negative adjustment left to use.

744FAC63-235C-4A5F-ACBB-21E51863474F.jpeg
 
16
12
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Ontario, Canada
The bolts are splined and interference fit in the knuckle. Give them a love tap to push them out a smidge then you can move the spindle and snug back up.
And by love tap I mean 3-5lbs mini sledge those things are in there good.
5lb mini sledge, wheel turned towards the outside for a good whack. Thread in the stock nut upside down, with none of the bolt protruding, for more surface area to hit. Get new nuts when you are done.

Don't be shy with hammer too...
 

Apex Wheels

Race Proven, Street Approved
Supporting Vendor
670
1,061
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Bay Area, CA
I can’t get anything to move…. Bolts won’t loosen up…. Nuts are off… am I missing something?
Hit it hard with a mallet as others mentioned. I have a few of those bright orange mallets from Harbor Freight in various weights, they're cheap, work great, and are easier on bolts than a traditional metal hammer/mallet.

Your camber plate photo looks good, lots of room to go inboard. Once you ensure there's no camber in the spindle, check clearance again and add spacer thickness as needed. Then throw 3* or more at it through the plates.
 
501
550
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Snowy North
Use the camber plate adjustment as the primary means of setting camber...it has the widest effective range...biggest bite.

Use the spindle/hub bolts for anything you need after you max-out the camber plate range....but be careful not to bring the inner sidewall of the tire too close to the strut body when adding neg camber at the spindle :thumbsup: .
 

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