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You know you are using your brakes hard when......

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When you bend the brake pad backing plate. Take a look at the pic. You can see where the backer plate has bent. This was my inner left rear brake pad. My right rear is not much better. I am hard on my brakes which in turn creates heat. I have the Steeda big brake kit in the back and the race abs module to help with heat, but looks like I need to create some sort of duct work back there. I melted the rubber boots on the caliper piston and even the rubber boots over the caliper guide rods. Heck, I even have to change the rear axle seal again on that side.

rear%20brake%20pad%20bent_zpswkqziwqr.jpg
 
Yikes! I'm glad they still worked.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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Been there for 4 years Mike, wore them down so far at Road America that I popped a piston out going down to turn 5. Black Boss was behind me and watched the smoke show for another lap. I too had pledged to create some ducting but never got around to it. Another big improvement on the S550 cars is the rear brakes, still floating single piston but much larger pad shape and much stronger caliper and bridge design.
Steve
 
I looked into building brake ducts last year but gave up. It would be easy to get a hose to the back of the brakes but the hard part is where to mount the intake so it actually picks up air. Might try it again this winter. I currently run the steeda 13" rear brake rotor. Not sure if the GT500 13.8 rear brake rotor would help much.
 

Fabman

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patrickshelby said:
Dont the Super Snake GT500's have a rear brake ducting?
At least as an option?
The 07-09 do not, but I can't speak to the later models.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
TMSBOSS said:
Has anyone made a rear brake cooling duct system yet?

Not that I know of. My rear brakes consistently temp higher than the fronts. Been dragging my feet on making something myself. Everything else I've needed or wanted has eventually been made by BMO/TMO members if not provided by FP or the aftermarket.

Hint-hint....
 

steveespo

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Agent 47 makes rear quarter window NACA ducts but that would involve drilling a hole in the wheel house. I was thinking 2"x 8" rectangular to 3" round under the seat pans then run the hoses to the axle tubes and point at the caliper. Mike should be able to figure something out. Ducting is plentiful from NASCAR teams on eBay.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
I'm aware of those setups, but have little faith in their ability to draw much air from that location. I'm thinking more like what Turner makes for BMWs or like what Porsche uses.
 
Grant 302 said:
I'm aware of those setups, but have little faith in their ability to draw much air from that location. I'm thinking more like what Turner makes for BMWs or like what Porsche uses.

Did you mean something like this?
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attachment.jpg

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http://teamspeed.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=30694&stc=1&d=1248989453/img]

[ATTACH=full]42926[/ATTACH]
(pics from [url=http://teamspeed.com/forums/gt/26218-new-product-gt3-rear-brake-cooling-ducts.html]teamspeed[/url])

We may be able to build a bracket that clamps around the axle tube and attach a duct to it... maybe even see if existing ducts line up.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
F.D. Sako said:
Did you mean something like this?

We may be able to build a bracket that clamps around the axle tube and attach a duct to it... maybe even see if existing ducts line up.

Yes, like that. Intake just inside the rear tire and below the bulk of the belly pan etc.

I think we have too much crap in the way for a backing plate like this:
brakes_e46_backingplate_installed_lg.jpg

Been meaning to make it from fiberglass and maybe CF.
 
Last winter I got as far as fitting a pipe to a backing plate to attach 2 1/2" hose but I couldn't come up with a suitable scoop. Thought about attaching it to the lower control arm somehow but I didn't think it hung down low enough to capture any air.
 

ArizonaBOSS

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Do yourself a favor and make sure the outer "fingers" on the calipers aren't bent. They are heavy castings but when they get really hot they will undergo plastic deformation.

This typically shows up in the form of vertical taper wear but I wouldn't rule it out in your case. Only way to fix that is to replace the caliper.

Also--are you certain you retracted the piston with the slots for the pad in the correct orientation (facing directly up/down)? I have seen one instance of this on S197 where this was not done properly and the pad bent similar to what you show.
 

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