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Car is sold, (traded actually straight across for 30+k SUV that I needed) Still have wheels/tires and new set of floor mats posted in classified section.
It was the throttle pedal assy. Not much to see inside, Magnetic Hall affect sensor inside housing with 6 pin connector with IC's that read and interpret changes in magnetic field. $80 dollars for entire assy. with about $10 worth of plastic & parts.
Nothing was being worked on, had batt disconnected for an over an hr no results, car starts and idles fine, I'm thinking it's the pedal. I will remove it tomorrow, haven't found any info on how to test it. I have an OEM Ford pedal assy. coming from LMR. Should be here in a day or so.
No codes on my little cheap reader. My son will check with his later this evening. I'm hoping its the pedal assy. and not the throttle body motor. Been told that is not a serviceable item.
Got wrench light, and there is no engine response to throttle. I checked all the PCM related fuses in main pwr box as there are no specific fuses listed for fly by wire throttle and they were good. Suggestions?
I am considering selling my 2012 Boss. It was my retirement trophy and I have enjoyed it but time and some health issues with RA have me thinking its best to move on. I would like opinions on reasonable expectation of value. I have to get pictures updated if I choose to post here.Basic info ...
Got a chance to get car up on lift to check everything, found the adj Panhard bar lock nut had come loose. Never seen that happen before. Re set everything and noise is gone. Going to replace lower LCA bushings along with anything else that looks tired from age.
In searching various install videos that are about the entire aftermarket control arm and body mount they also show a bushing insert replacement that doesn't require the outer shell in the diff housing to be removed.The old bushing inner shell is removed by 1/8"drill removing the old rubber...
Can the bushing at the diff be replaced without removing the entire assenbly /body mount ? Seems like removing the arm bolt and lowering the rear to allow drilling out bushing rubber would work.
Can the bushing at the diff be replaced without removing the entire assenbly /body mount ? Seems like removing the arm bolt and lowering the rear to allow drilling out bushing rubber would work.
I suspect they may be bad also. I'll check when the parts come in for the sway bar. I need to see if replacement LCA bushings for the Ford Racing LCA's are still available. The End Links took a while to find as parts suppliers only listed them for std GT 22mm. Boss has 24MM, 302R and GT500's...
Well started getting that rear end "clunk" on my 2012. Just under 39k miles. Not consistent, usually when going over a rough washboard road or turning into driveway. Ordered new sway bar bushings and end links. Going to add the little clamp blocks to keep sway bar from shifting side to side as...
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