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I progressively brought it down to about 1.5 degrees (from the 3 degrees in the BMR video), which removed the vast majority of it. I still have a little bit of vibration at high RPM (over ~5,500).When I moved to 2 degrees, everything was gone except for that high RPM vibration. I went on to...
I found a source for NOS M-3075-R arms, which are being sold as 'FR500C' replacement arms, with 19mm taller ball joints but no bushings.Are these a good option? (With the appropriate bushing kit, assuming they are available...?)
Good catch on the rack... I updated my car with a 2013 rack because I was getting a hard shake under braking with the stock bushings. Only cost me 2 sets of rotors and a lot on of searching threads here to figure that one out!I had heard the Steeda tall ball joints are a common failure...
Over the last couple events, I developed a clunk in the front end of my car. (2011 Mustang GT CAM-C car, moderately serious build)With the car up in the air this morning, I found a torn and leaking passenger side front control arm bushing. ~30k-mile / 12 year old Ford originals, with a few...
Lots of good advice in here already...I'll offer a couple more nuggets that may or may not help.I came to the Falken RT660's from the RE71R's. I found that I liked pressures ~1-3 psi higher than the RE71's...and they never touch the triangles for me UNLESS I am over-driving the front end...
Thank you both for the responses...what has me scratching my head here is that the vibration seems to occur only under load, and does not go away immediately when I push in the clutch (at high rpm)...@blacksheep-1 - I know my setup varies from what you run/ran. Some of it may be due to the...
2011 Mustang GT, lowered on H&R race springs with Ford Racing adjustable Panhard...Recently installed an FRPP 1-piece driveshaft along with Whiteline adjustable LCA's, and J&M LCA relocation brackets. After noticing a new/different vibration, I put in on an alignment rack to adjust the pinion...
I may be late to the party, but... I've been running 295/35-19 Falken RT660's on 19x10.5's square on my S197 for the last two years. Something over 120 runs, and they still have alot of rubber left. That said, they are definitely heat cycled beyond their prime... A couple caveats:The...
Big bars can be a big help to add roll stiffness with softer springs. I went to the BMR 38mm front bar to help with softer springs (originally had BMR Handling springs, now on H&R Race), and it has been very effective.It will bring some push (BMR 38mm is big, stiff bar), which you will likely...
Both of my last two sets of tires heat cycled out before they wore out... 2 seasons and ~140 runs on RE-71R, and then 2 seasons on the current RT-660's. Both of them noticably lost grip over their life, but I think the Falkens fell off worse.Wear is not really a big concern for me, as long...
I missed this thread back in the summer, but I've also got a TrueTrac. It was a big improvement over a worn Trac-Lok, but I have been fighting inside wheel spin with it intermittently for quite a while as well. I can mostly tune it out with rear bar, but not completely.When I went with the...
I've been running Falkens RT660's, and have gotten great life out of them... 295/35-19 with over 140 runs, and STILL not quite at at the wear bars! ...but the Falkens need heat to 'turn on', and I think mine are starting to fall off a bit.What is the current wisdom around tire of choice for...
The GT500 (and 2005-2010 Mustang GT) strut bearings are different than the 2011-2014 Mustang GT. The MM plates (and if I recall correctly the struts) are also different between the two.I actually have the GT500 parts* on my 2011 GT, primarily because it was convenient for me at the time. No...
Coming back to confirm... My 2011 GT had a shudder in the front end under heavy / at the limit braking (CAM-C autocross car). Swapping in the salvage 2013 rack resolved it.Unfortunately, I went through two sets of pads and rotors last year chasing it before I saw this...
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