With the car lowered 1-1/2" in the rear there won't be much room for suspension travel. You'll need to cut or replace the bump stops with shorter (firmer). You might find hitting the stops to be even rougher than those P springs. And the car will not handle at all well if riding on the stops in...

All good advice above. I'll just add that running E85 may exacerbate the issue a bit as fuel demand is greater. Are you running a return or returnless fuel system?

There is a barely perceptible weave when catching the light just right, I didn't even notice it at first glance. Since I'll be priming/painting it anyway I don't think it'll take much to hit it with a coat of primer/filler and block it smooth first though.

BTW The gelcoated carbon hood is clear carbon on the underside except around the edges... Love the look!

14 lbs. vs 22 lbs for a 2014 hood. I think the carbon might be a little stronger though, and even at that mine flexes a bit. Haven't road tested yet to see how well it holds shape, but others here may have experience and more info.

I'm guessing that part is made of polypropylene, similar S197 parts are. Polypropylene can be difficult to bond but with a quick search I found this stuff which sounds like it might do the trick. If you go this route don't just glue the fractured edges together. The break is on a flat surface so...

https://vorshlag-store.com/collections/vorshlag-camber-plates/products/vorshlag-ford-05-14-s197-mustang-aluminum-camber-caster-plates-perches

The leading edge of pads will wear faster than the trailing edge in a caliper with equal sized piston, that's why racing calipers often have staggered piston sizes. That much taper after a single track day suggests that your pad compound is not up to the heat they're seeing and/or more brake...

You can't go wrong with the Vorshlag plates. Maybe not "bang for the buck" but highly regarded around here, definitely not "junk". To get close to 3° you may need to open the hole at the top of the strut tower too. I don't trust camber bolts so much.

Yes, these:https://trufiber.com/products/2010-2014-mustang-fiberglass-nx2-fenders

If you do, be aware that fenders like these are far from ready to bolt on and paint. They are not as rigid as the OEM and flex/bow/twist when trying to match up the body lines and gaps. Getting one spot right tends to introduce errors elsewhere. Mine need several shims, some edge trimming, a...

What torque arm do you have? If it's anything like my Cortex arm I don't think you even need to support the axle, it will just hang in the full droop position. If you're trying to gain access to the trans & drive shaft I think you can just remove the forward torque arm mount and rotate the arm...

I finally got all my painting stuff. Anybody that's done painting in CA probably knows, getting the good paint here is a problem, but I got some paint that'll work ok. Having a proper place to paint is another issue, here's my redneck paintbooth:Fans blowing in from the backdoor gave a...

While waiting for my engine bay paint I took some time to prep everything. Scuffing and sanding in every nook and cranny took me a LONG time because I'm a first-time painter and don't know what good enough is, as a compulsive perfectionist I seem to maybe get too carried away. I could never be a...

5 different tunes for various fuels and applications. Shaun at AED did me right, one dyno session and once he had the car dialed in, additional different calibrations were easy and relatively inexpensive.